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Cylinder temps

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Rugby

Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2013
Messages
182
While I had my temp gun out trying to figuare out why my heater sucks I decided to see if all the headers where close to the same temp.

5 of the 6 were very close in temp at the header. The back cylinder on the pass side was 100+deg cooler than the rest. If my thinking is correct it means that that cylinder is not working as hard as the others.

Where's a good place to start to look?

I might have a chance to do a compression check this week end but it will depend on the weather.

Does anybody have any other easy checks?

Brandon.
 
don't waste your time, at idle you will have different temps on diff cyl's. due to poor distribution .
bring the rpm up to 2500 and read the temps,
 
While I had my temp gun out trying to figuare out why my heater sucks I decided to see if all the headers where close to the same temp.

5 of the 6 were very close in temp at the header. The back cylinder on the pass side was 100+deg cooler than the rest. If my thinking is correct it means that that cylinder is not working as hard as the others.

Where's a good place to start to look?

I might have a chance to do a compression check this week end but it will depend on the weather.

Does anybody have any other easy checks?

Brandon.

Cruzn57 is right, you're will always have slightly variant temperature readings from cylinder to cylinder and 100 degrees isn't that big of a deal. Even at 2500 RPM's it will vary, even with the RJC plate and perfect distribution!

Don't let it stress you!
 
If y'all say no big deal then it stays. I have a ton of other little things that need to be addressed.

Brandon
 
If y'all say no big deal then it stays. I have a ton of other little things that need to be addressed.

Brandon
Yeah, I wouldn't give it a second thought...my dragster can vary 200 degrees on the right rear cylinder and it's running a ProCharger with 55#'s of boost!
 
The coolant temp in the rad is 200deg with my temp gun. The hard lines that go to the heater core are 100-120ish. Not sure what the issue is here yet. I bleed the core of air with the same results.

Brandon
 
That is a big difference. Make sure the heater is on and the vacuum operated valve in the rubber heater hose by the core is opening and allowing coolant to flow. No flow = no heat. You also might verify temps with a contact type temperature measuring device. IR temp gun readings can vary greatly depending on the color and surface finish of what you are shooting with them. If it is really only 100 to 120 you can put your hand on it without getting burned. Anything over 140 starts to hurt. If the valve is opening and it is really not very hot then you probably have a blockage somewhere in your heater system.
 
The was on and the heater valve is open. I know the heater core is not plugged because it's new. I don't know about upstream from there.
The metal lines were clear a year or so ago when I pulled the intake of.

The hoses and the metal lines are warm but not hot. You can hold them and not get burned.

I have not had a lot of time to look at it lately.

Brandon
 
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