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Design changes???

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Chuck Leeper

Toxic old bastard
Staff member
Joined
May 28, 2001
Messages
16,518
Crazy or useful changes I've been thinking of making::bucktooth::smuggrin:
1. Cut off the nipple for the "S" hose on the ft cover, and weld on an aluminum 90* elbo. [May also be able to drill/tap a threaded elbo in. Could be 1/4-5/16 thread?? This does away w/ that absurd hose, and allows use of a simple 90* molded hose. Less $, much easier to get.
2. Clock the tstat hold down bolt from difficult to get to at 5 o'clock, to 11 o'clock. A simple drill/tap when the ft cover is off, [as mine is], and both these changes can be done. [We know everyone has to change the timing chain, so then is the time.]
 
IIRC, it's 1/4" NPT, I tapped mine and plugged it - no hose at all. You can barely see it at the far left...
 

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IIRC, it's 1/4" NPT, I tapped mine and plugged it - no hose at all. You can barely see it at the far left...
Yep, I did the same thing.

Then I drilled three 1/8th bypass holes around the thermostat flange.
 
Thanks, guys.
It's plug and drill the stat time.
I never really understood why the hose. I guess it relieves the back psi on the pump, and allows some circulation, until the stat opens...
My bbc engines always had them blocked off.
Have you seen any overheating issues w/ them blocked?
 
.........Have you seen any overheating issues w/ them blocked?

We eliminated the by-pass hose and t'stats years ago, and never see overheating without them.

Contrary to the internet BS, the car will run cooler w/0 the t'stat which we have proven this in 110+ temps many times.

Our performance builds do not use a t'stat at all as it also provides a much quicker cool down after a run.

If you need heat in the winter, put the t-stat back in then.
 
Chuck....on the T stat by pass hose I have used jb weld quick putty and fill the whole cavity from inside the water pump to the end of the nipple on the block side of front cover. Once it's packed...use a wet finger to smooth any excess inside or out. And then just slap a screw in pipe plug in manifold and two small holes in T stat and your done. If you ever need to go back to stock appearing you just drill the epoxy out.
 
If your using a t-stat, the bypass holes allows the hot coolant to move past it so it heats it to the point of opening. Otherwise, the whole volume of the housing has to become heat soaked before the t-stat gets warm enough to open. Also it helps the pump having to spin against a dead end. I have an electric water pump and this was recommended by the manufacturer.
 
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