Did I install this cam sensor correct?

[ScottHeidinger]

Yes the car will Not start if the crank sensor is bad. They are cheap enough that I would just replace it. They are also small enough that I keep a spare in the trunk.


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[ScottHeidinger]

Looks like that one has had some contact with the reluctor wheel. Make sure the wheel isn’t damaged


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[87WE4!!]

Looks like that one has had some contact with the reluctor wheel. Make sure the wheel isn’t damaged


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I’m sorry guys/girls I’m a motorcycle mechanic. I should have not tried to do this myself. I did the best I could. I honestly didn’t think I had to re alight it since it’s the same cover. I guess you learn something new everyday

 

[ScottHeidinger]

Sometimes that’s how we learn. At least it isn’t a $200 part...


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[ttypewhite]

My invoice is in the mail.....lol
Be very careful when you install the new one. Rotate the engine a full 360 degrees by the harmonic and make sure they all go through the sensor properly without hitting it.

 

[OKBuickTurbo]

I’m sorry guys/girls I’m a motorcycle mechanic. I should have not tried to do this myself.

Baloney... you did good. Minor cheap mistake. Good luck with the car.and let us know how it goes.

 

[87WE4!!]

Thanks for the encouragement everyone. I’m loosing my mind with this car. It’s funny because I’m writing this in my other WE4 that I never had an issue with in 32 years.
I bought a new crankshaft sensor and the bracket. I read the instructions twice before starting. I bought a new feeler gauge just to be accurate. I cleaned my reluctor wheel looked beautiful. I took my time installing it. I set it at .025 clearance (instructions said between.020-.030 clearances). I spun it by hand and checked each slot and it went in like butter. With an easy .015 clearance between each. (Instructions said no less then .010)
I cranked it and it acted like it wanted to start but same thing. 5 minutes later I have no spark at all in any plug. And I set the cam cap again. Red light and all 25 degrees ptdc. Nothing. Only action I get is the fuel rail prime.
I have standing voltage at the crankshaft, cam, injectors, etc. I have no idea why it won’t fire. And now I lost my spark.

Oh btw I even swapped out ecu under my warranty. Same deal.

I’m so pissed at myself. This car was running but I had absolutely no choice but to take it apart. It sat for years and it was gunked up as well as the timing cog was cracked. But it was running when I bought it. I don’t understand I’m a person who reads everything 3 times before starting a job. This car has the exact same sensors and efi principals as the crotch rockets that I fix all day. It doesn’t make sense.

 

[m233roller]

No I used the Casper’s sticker that goes on the crankshaft pulley and I lined one end of the sticker at the notch and the other end of the sticker at the zero mark. The actual notch isn’t at zero. They give you stickers to show you how to get to 25 degree past TDC. Honestly I really don’t get it. I have spark on every cylinder (the wires are correct) all the plugs smell like gas, I have good even compression all around, I have standing voltage at all the injector harness plugs, I don’t have a noid tester. It doesn’t make sense the car won’t even start on starting fluid. I also replaced the battery and all the battery cables (took care of the hot cable problems).

I got nothing guys. I’m getting sick of doing this. It’s was running when I got it. I’m so tempted to sell it but I’ll keep trying.
It makes absolutely no sense. I got a red light on the cam tool. The vacuum block is capped off for now as is the egr valve. I’ll post a pic of my timing marks from when I installed it.
Thank all you guys. You are the best

If the plugs are gas soaked it won't start, might spit and sputter but won't start & stay running.

 

[87WE4!!]

Does the position of the cam sensor control the spark as well as the injectors? Or does the crankshaft position sensor control the spark and the cam position sensor controls the fuel injectors?
With motorcycles the cam sensor sends a signal to the ecu to pulse the injectors. And the crank sensor sends a signal to the ecu when to throw the spark as well as rpms.

Again guys I’m so sorry for all the questions. I really don’t want to sell it but I need it out of this $300 storage unit into a smaller unit with no electric outlets. I can’t afford the $300 a month it’s bring raised to. If I can get it to start I’ll get the rest of it back together with no problems.

 

[ScottHeidinger]

http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/troubshootgeneral.htm

Best place to start


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[ScottHeidinger]

There is a link at top for no start.


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[ScottHeidinger]

Did u check the fuses? Common to have CCCI fuse blow and not looked at. Is SES light on while cranking?


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[ScottHeidinger]

Have you verified fuel pressure?


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[Hahny]

Hi guys/girls.
I thank you all for the input. I did another cam sensor install. I set the crank for 25 degrees past TDC on compression stroke. And I took my Kirban’s FPR off and replaced with my working stock unit. And I put another 2 gallons of 93 gasoline in just to be safe. So now when I crank it the engine pops and stumbles like she really wants to start but never catches. I’m missing something. The only thing that I actually don’t have installed is the pcv valve and the EGR/FPR vacuum hoses hooked up because I’m waiting for the pcv valve to come in as well as the correct ID vacuum line to come in. But I have the vacuum block as well as the FPR/egr vacuum capped off just for now. So there no vacuum nipples and exposed. It should start. I even went over the fuel injector harness to make sure the numbers lined up with the correct cylinders. I double checked the same for the spark plug wires.
If anyone had a trick up their sleeve please post up. I have a new comp cam, lifters,springs, and pushrods so I can’t keep cranking the engine like this because I haven’t been able to go through the break in process. I primed it with a drill and I have the break in oil in there but I don’t want to wear my lobes by cranking it without it starting. And I also noticed the battery cables getting very warm after only 10-20 seconds of trying to start it. Then they cool off after I stop cranking it. I’ll take any advice.
Btw the fuel rail does prime when I turn the key into ignition. I hear the pump prime and the rail is full of fuel.
Thank y’all

Hope you put plenty of red cam "sauce" lube on your bumpstick/lifters. It doesn't take much to wipe a lobe on a flat tappet. That was my biggest fear when I couldn't get my engine to turn over. I'm just glad that I used zddp cam paste.

 

[blackazz]

Are you sure you didn't foul out the plugs?

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[earlbrown]

I’m sorry guys/girls I’m a motorcycle mechanic. I should have not tried to do this myself. I did the best I could.

Back in '98 I had to do my timing chain at the Yamaha dealership I worked at. Just heading down I-85 to work when the car cut off and didn't have spark. Turns out the top timing gear lost all it's teeth.

It's not that bad of a job, just set all the sensors the way they go and you should be fine.



And just like you should do with EVERY bike and ATV that show up a the shop with the running condition, replace the spark plug(s) before you try to tune around them.

 

[87WE4!!]

Hope you put plenty of red cam "sauce" lube on your bumpstick/lifters. It doesn't take much to wipe a lobe on a flat tappet. That was my biggest fear when I couldn't get my engine to turn over. I'm just glad that I used zddp cam paste.

I know it scares the $hi! Out of me too. I keep squeezing rebuild lube through a vacuum hose into the turbo oil return hole in the block. I absolutely hate cranking the engine.

 

[87WE4!!]

Back in '98 I had to do my timing chain at the Yamaha dealership I worked at. Just heading down I-85 to work when the car cut off and didn't have spark. Turns out the top timing gear lost all it's teeth.

It's not that bad of a job, just set all the sensors the way they go and you should be fine.



And just like you should do with EVERY bike and ATV that show up a the shop with the running condition, replace the spark plug(s) before you try to tune around them.

Be careful on your bike. I had a 2010 bmw s1000rr and someone made the left in front of me. Long story short I have dissolved screws in my hip. But I never learned. I bought a new 2014 bmw s1000rr. And I just bought a 2016 Kawasaki Ninja H2 last year that was dropped and Is rebuildable salvage. I love that bike. It’s the unicorn.

Anyway, I rented a noid light from autozone. I have injector pulse in all my injector leads. The pump primes like is should. But I still have no spark now. I had spark. But I lost it after I checked all those fuses. Also I don’t know if this matters but I had to replace my gauge cluster ribbon with a Casper’s ribbon and the only lights that work on the cluster are the turn signals and the check engine light works. But I’ve seen one of these cars start without the gauge installed.

 

[87WE4!!]

Did u check the fuses? Common to have CCCI fuse blow and not looked at. Is SES light on while cranking?


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CCCi fuse is good
Check engine lights up
Fuel pump primes
Injectors have pulse
No spark (I had it but it’s gone)

 

[ScottHeidinger]

Car will start without gauges. Check engine verified power to ECM. The alternator will not charge without the idiot light or a resistor connected.


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