I’m sorry guys/girls I’m a motorcycle mechanic. I should have not tried to do this myself. I did the best I could. I honestly didn’t think I had to re alight it since it’s the same cover. I guess you learn something new everydayLooks like that one has had some contact with the reluctor wheel. Make sure the wheel isn’t damaged
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If the plugs are gas soaked it won't start, might spit and sputter but won't start & stay running.No I used the Casper’s sticker that goes on the crankshaft pulley and I lined one end of the sticker at the notch and the other end of the sticker at the zero mark. The actual notch isn’t at zero. They give you stickers to show you how to get to 25 degree past TDC. Honestly I really don’t get it. I have spark on every cylinder (the wires are correct) all the plugs smell like gas, I have good even compression all around, I have standing voltage at all the injector harness plugs, I don’t have a noid tester. It doesn’t make sense the car won’t even start on starting fluid. I also replaced the battery and all the battery cables (took care of the hot cable problems).
I got nothing guys. I’m getting sick of doing this. It’s was running when I got it. I’m so tempted to sell it but I’ll keep trying.
It makes absolutely no sense. I got a red light on the cam tool. The vacuum block is capped off for now as is the egr valve. I’ll post a pic of my timing marks from when I installed it.
Thank all you guys. You are the best
Hope you put plenty of red cam "sauce" lube on your bumpstick/lifters. It doesn't take much to wipe a lobe on a flat tappet. That was my biggest fear when I couldn't get my engine to turn over. I'm just glad that I used zddp cam paste.Hi guys/girls.
I thank you all for the input. I did another cam sensor install. I set the crank for 25 degrees past TDC on compression stroke. And I took my Kirban’s FPR off and replaced with my working stock unit. And I put another 2 gallons of 93 gasoline in just to be safe. So now when I crank it the engine pops and stumbles like she really wants to start but never catches. I’m missing something. The only thing that I actually don’t have installed is the pcv valve and the EGR/FPR vacuum hoses hooked up because I’m waiting for the pcv valve to come in as well as the correct ID vacuum line to come in. But I have the vacuum block as well as the FPR/egr vacuum capped off just for now. So there no vacuum nipples and exposed. It should start. I even went over the fuel injector harness to make sure the numbers lined up with the correct cylinders. I double checked the same for the spark plug wires.
If anyone had a trick up their sleeve please post up. I have a new comp cam, lifters,springs, and pushrods so I can’t keep cranking the engine like this because I haven’t been able to go through the break in process. I primed it with a drill and I have the break in oil in there but I don’t want to wear my lobes by cranking it without it starting. And I also noticed the battery cables getting very warm after only 10-20 seconds of trying to start it. Then they cool off after I stop cranking it. I’ll take any advice.
Btw the fuel rail does prime when I turn the key into ignition. I hear the pump prime and the rail is full of fuel.
I’m sorry guys/girls I’m a motorcycle mechanic. I should have not tried to do this myself. I did the best I could.
I know it scares the $hi! Out of me too. I keep squeezing rebuild lube through a vacuum hose into the turbo oil return hole in the block. I absolutely hate cranking the engine.Hope you put plenty of red cam "sauce" lube on your bumpstick/lifters. It doesn't take much to wipe a lobe on a flat tappet. That was my biggest fear when I couldn't get my engine to turn over. I'm just glad that I used zddp cam paste.
Be careful on your bike. I had a 2010 bmw s1000rr and someone made the left in front of me. Long story short I have dissolved screws in my hip. But I never learned. I bought a new 2014 bmw s1000rr. And I just bought a 2016 Kawasaki Ninja H2 last year that was dropped and Is rebuildable salvage. I love that bike. It’s the unicorn.Back in '98 I had to do my timing chain at the Yamaha dealership I worked at. Just heading down I-85 to work when the car cut off and didn't have spark. Turns out the top timing gear lost all it's teeth.
It's not that bad of a job, just set all the sensors the way they go and you should be fine.
And just like you should do with EVERY bike and ATV that show up a the shop with the running condition, replace the spark plug(s) before you try to tune around them.