direct drum clutches

jimski

In over my head
Joined
Apr 26, 2008
Direct drum clutch pack sequence. steel, clutch ect.. How many steels and how many clutches? Atsg manual very vague.
 
if it came with 7 clutches, they're probably .061 thickness which is thinner than stock (.080). you'll need to run all 7 to get the stackup right.
 
I am not a fan of 7 clutches, most go back to 6/6 set up after 7 setup fails.
 
I'm not trying to start a pissing match because 6 vs 7 has been hashed out here more than once. But it's a fact that a couple of the big name builders run 7 clutch directs and aren't having issues. (I'm only typing this so the op doesn't run out and buy a 6 clutch setup thinking the 7 can't work).
 
I'm not trying to start a pissing match because 6 vs 7 has been hashed out here more than once. But it's a fact that a couple of the big name builders run 7 clutch directs and aren't having issues. (I'm only typing this so the op doesn't run out and buy a 6 clutch setup thinking the 7 can't work).
Me either just offering an opinion.
 
if it came with 7 clutches, they're probably .061 thickness which is thinner than stock (.080). you'll need to run all 7 to get the stackup right.
I did not break out a micrometer but 7 will not work since they only gave me 6 steels and 7 clutches.
 
You need to put a dial caliper or micrometer on them and here's why:

The root of the direct clutch debate has nothing to do with the actual number of frictions; if we could fit 7 or 8 .080 frictions and .090 steels in it, everyone would do it. Like how everyone adds a clutch to overdrive. The problem is, there's a limited amount of real estate between the snap ring and the bottom of a stock direct drum, so to run extra clutches, you either have to run thinner frictions or thinner steels (or both) to get them all in that limited space (assuming a stock drum). Thinner parts = less heat tolerance before they warp and burn. But more parts = more parts to absorb the same amount of heat and you can bet your ass that the duration of the 2-3 shift is a major player here, as well as the timing of the band release, etc. This topic will be debated until the end of time and I damn sure don't wish to fire up another debate. The point here, is that if you happen to be holding thin frictions or thin steels, you're going to be stacking extra steels to the moon trying to get the clearance right with 6 frictions and that's just plain silly. Measure what you have. :)
 
You need to put a dial caliper or micrometer on them and here's why:

The root of the direct clutch debate has nothing to do with the actual number of frictions; if we could fit 7 or 8 .080 frictions and .090 steels in it, everyone would do it. Like how everyone adds a clutch to overdrive. The problem is, there's a limited amount of real estate between the snap ring and the bottom of a stock direct drum, so to run extra clutches, you either have to run thinner frictions or thinner steels (or both) to get them all in that limited space (assuming a stock drum). Thinner parts = less heat tolerance before they warp and burn. But more parts = more parts to absorb the same amount of heat and you can bet your ass that the duration of the 2-3 shift is a major player here, as well as the timing of the band release, etc. This topic will be debated until the end of time and I damn sure don't wish to fire up another debate. The point here, is that if you happen to be holding thin frictions or thin steels, you're going to be stacking extra steels to the moon trying to get the clearance right with 6 frictions and that's just plain silly. Measure what you have. :)
Ok got it
 
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