Double GN IC for Typhoon

Pipes too large for the application or too long will cause turbo lag. More space to fill = turbo lag. Now, if you're at a power level that you need the added size then the power up top makes up for the increased lag down low but intentionally creating a system with pipes either too large to long isn't helping the situation. Get a good efficient intercooler, run alky injection or both and be done with it.

Also, most OEM intercoolers aren't as efficient as aftermarket intercoolers and welding two together will double the pressure drop across them. You can get quality intercoolers on eBay these days inexpensively and save all the effort of putting two together too. Just my two cents for what it's worth.
 
I agree that most stock IC are not great... In the stock fourm the GN IC has a problem with the inlet/outlet.. but from asking several of the designers and guy's who have been around GN's they say the core it's self is a awsome flowing peice. Below is another way we put together two GN IC's for a Mustang Hybrid we are doing... When we had it installed in a Camaro it had consistant lower inlet temps than a CAS front mount on a different Camaro Hybrid we had at the same time with similar builds... We just made the one below as a temporay fix but it worked so well we kept useing it.
~Scott
 

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I'm more concerned about the pressure loss across the face. If you can get a pressure gauge before and one after to see how much psi you'se losing by the time you get to the manifold would be the true test of this setup.
 
Any of you guys ever seen the twin CAS a2a for Sy/Ty's?Its 2 GN IC's,1 up front and 1 in front of the engine like the Buicks.A friend of mine had one on his Ty and it looked really cool.
 
they dont make it any longer and i dont think it was gn ics. also there is a reason it is not sold any longer, a better version can be had for much less. last i looked they went for 1600-2000
 
It Re-lives...

Here's a picture of it back together today running... I'm finishing up the inside (Carpet ect) but it's back to life as of last night.

Lots of work but all well worth it...
 

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Another.....The alternator is spinning in the picture... It's Alive :D
 

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Last picture of how the air cleaner was mounted with the stock flexable elbow to a 3" K&N.... You can also see the coolant over flow and there's a RJC boost controller sitting on the line going from the radiator to the overflow so the boost controller can be adjusted easy.
~Scott
 

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Thanks....

It looks a little goofy with orange under the hood and black on the outside but I realy did not want to paint the engine bay stuff twice when I paint the outside of the truck orange this fall...
It'll all make sense when the outside go's orange but it'll look strange till then. :smile:

I'll keep you posted on how the intercooler does... made too many changes at once to know any differences.. so we'll see..

~Scott
 
Good news ...

First results on temps out of the intercooler:

It was 90deg yesterday and watching the scan tool the actual inlet temperature inside the plenum was 129deg. That's a 39deg rise. It seemed to be consistant a few deg up or down from there but that was about the avarage on a 10mile drive.

Anyone else have readings on their Sy/Ty on inlet temps to compare?
The air temp sender is located directly in the upper plenum so it's reading the actual temp going into the engine....

With the aircleaner and pipe routing the way it is when you let off the throttle when under boost it's so loud it's been scaring people next to me in the other lane... :biggrin: It's very very loud. Totaly makes it sound like a big turbo :rolleyes: Funny it's so small... Lol... oh well it sounds awsome.

Thanks,
Scott~
 
I've got one word... Methanol injection

Well, two really.

Using it you will see IAT's drop BELOW abient air temps. Pretty amazing stuff. Your single FMIC would be more than effecient for the 'small turbo' you describe using alky.
 
I've never messed with the meth injection....

I've been trying to tune a 85GN here with the alky injection and have had all kinds of trouble... I realy need someone to show me the ropes on the meth/alky and then maby it'd make sense but at this point I don't care for it. :confused:
I'm at 15psi on 92oct.

If your close I'd love to see how the Meth works and a breif lesson..

Thanks,
Scott~
 
Problems to resolutions....

Even the best plans fail..... :eek:

I re-located the battery to the back of the truck. All seemed well... good. :)

The truck started shutting off and coming back on during mid to hard acceleration. Check engine light would come on and the seatbelt warning light too.... It was freaking me out!!!

I'm new to this truck so I didn't know if I'd caused the problem, Chip I installed, 3bar map? Or exactly what was going on... :confused:

I routed the positive wires as neatly as I could around the starter and downpipe/exhaust manifold area as I could with wire ties.
On the stock downpipe there is a mounting flange that go's to a bracket held on by the two tranny bell housing bolts. The long 15mm headed bolt go's through the bracket holding on the DP. Well... Guess that was getting hot and it was melting the wire that feeds all the ECM and inside power circuts.
But it'd only happen when the engine torqed up under throttle... :mad:

Re-routed wire to another area and all is well... full boost runs hard and cool inlet temps... Finaly happy with the way it's running.
I'll let you know what it runs in the 1/4 when the wife gets a bit usto it and she can pilot it down the strip!!!!! :smile:

~Scott
 
UR50SLO said:
Finaly happy with the way it's running.
I'll let you know what it runs in the 1/4 when the wife gets a bit usto it and she can pilot it down the strip!!!!! :smile:

~Scott

Damn that sucks but at least it was a easy fix... also if you haven't done so yet remove the heatshield from the stock dp. it tends vibrate enough to cause some false knock on alot of trucks.. I did on my sy

also what are you inlet temps? are you using datamaster?
 
The other day I was driving around with the scan tool in it and it was low 90's outside temp. The inlet temp to the sensor in the upper plenum was 129deg.... that's about the avarage.. it was as low as 125 to high of 133deg.
I wish I had a reading on the previous IC to see the difference. I guess you can plug in the temperature rise from any ambiant temp to the plenum temp and get your intercooler effecincy

IE

Outside temp - Inlet temp sensor temp = heat rise

which you could compare to any other IC or setup.

I don't notice any lag from the pipeing or IC it still is almost instant boost.... I plan on setting up a gauge before the IC to see the press. drop across it.. VS my boost gauge.

If you feel the top right side of the IC it's hot... then the pass side is cold... pritty neat.

My wife already wants to go to the track... she was wearing my helmet around the shop for a half hour friday night... :D

Gota love that!
~Scott
 
I have datamaster logs of my truck on my work computer.. so Monday I will check them out and see what the temps where on that.. because it has the stock ic setup and stock turbo so you'll get an idea of how much cooler if any that air 2 air setup is giving you.. from what you've said though i don't think it's offering you any cooler temps then the factory water 2 air setup did but we'll see.

later

Ryan
 
First night at track.....

Well.. My wife decided to take the Typhoon to the track tonight...

I set up the fuel pressure to be in the high 900's to be WAY safe and set it for stock boost.

She has never raced anything at the track before so I think she did great...

First pass was a 13.61@96mph with a 1.96 60'

I don't think that much boost was built on the line with any of the passes as

they all stay in that area for mph and 60'. I get my Tuner Pro sofware and

other stuff from www.moates.net next week where I can get to data log

and tune the truck. Then I'll be able to turn up the wick a little bit.

I'll also know what the inlet temps do on a 1/4mi pass.

Thanks guys~
Scott
 
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