I put my "new" ATR 2.5" SSDP on last week. Seems now when I go over bumps or train tracks, sounds like the A-arm is smacking the DP. I have been slowing down over tracks now, but you don't always see potholes in the road untill its too late. Is there anything I can do to fix this?
DP hitting A-arm?
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I was thinking of changing the motor mount, but my car has only 42,000 on it, so I wasn't sure if it needed it or not. Don't have a torque strap yet, a friend of mine was supposed to make me one.
Do I need the poly mount? Or just the regular one?
Do I need the poly mount? Or just the regular one?
A regular one may work for a while, but will eventually break like the stockers do. This allows big movement on the engine. If you use a stock one, definately use a torque strap to keep the engine from breaking the new mount. I went to poly mount, after I took off my strap and saw that the stainless bolt had become a pretzel.
HRpartsNstuff
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My car had 32k miles on it & the mounts were trashed. The age of the rubber hurts more than the mileage I have found.
Just so you know, our new Poly Motor Mounts mount the engine at the height of new stock mounts or slightly higher. Changing the drivers side will eliminate any need for a torque strap, and probably outlast our cars
For those with downpipe clearance problems around the frame & A-arm (like you described), installing a new Poly mount on the pass side cures that for good. We usually recommend doing the pair over the drivers side only for faster cars around mid 11's & more, or to fix your problem.
Another note:
We are now using a softer Poly bushing in all 3.8 "stock" block mounts (first version). They will handle all the power you can give them, while reducing any possible vibrations felt inside the car. Now, there is really no downside to running the pair on mild street cars or 9 sec stock blocks.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks-
Just so you know, our new Poly Motor Mounts mount the engine at the height of new stock mounts or slightly higher. Changing the drivers side will eliminate any need for a torque strap, and probably outlast our cars
For those with downpipe clearance problems around the frame & A-arm (like you described), installing a new Poly mount on the pass side cures that for good. We usually recommend doing the pair over the drivers side only for faster cars around mid 11's & more, or to fix your problem.Another note:
We are now using a softer Poly bushing in all 3.8 "stock" block mounts (first version). They will handle all the power you can give them, while reducing any possible vibrations felt inside the car. Now, there is really no downside to running the pair on mild street cars or 9 sec stock blocks.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks-
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