any cons to running a 75-100 dry shot right after a front mount IC outlet vs closer to the TB ? interested in the cooling charge , and wouldn't the distributon be better ? this is for a TT 400 cu/in SBC with a FM IC 2 x 2 1/2" inlets , 1 x 3" outlet setup .
Dry Shot TT FM IC ?
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grocerygetter
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as long as your tune is covering the fuel for it. go for it. Remember, nitrous plus boost equals more boost than without nitrous. Start at 75 and work up for sure.
What are you controlling the fueling with? How is it going to compensate? I had a dry setup that I used the injectors to feed with my xfi. It used about 70lbs/hr additional fuel with a small of around 50hp "rating" and the bottle pressure was a little low. The cooling effect and 3-4psi more boost really gave it a big punch. I never ran it with the nitrous but it trapped almost 138mph without the nitrous. It was the strongest I've ever felt the car with it.
Bison ..that's whole lot more fuel for just a 50 shot is it not ? being controled with FAST XFI and have 95 lbs injectors . My understanding is ..if you have a preset controled boost level via lets say a AMS 500 . can you not get more HP when nitrous is introduced and the boost setting staying the same ?
also considering ditching the IC and doing a pre-turbo 50 dry shot for each turbo ? any thoughts on this guys ?
also considering ditching the IC and doing a pre-turbo 50 dry shot for each turbo ? any thoughts on this guys ?
Boost is being controled by a pair of Tial 41mm Wastegates...I hope it's enough .
I have the IC and piping sitting on the shelf , just looks like it's going to be a little bit of a nightmare to pipe it in . 
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Nitrous is basically air. If you introduce additional air you will need to introduce additional fuel to compensate for that extra air. So what typically happens is the extra air when you hit the button overwhelms the exhuast and the gate that could keep up now cant. I mean if your running twin 60 MM gates you may get away with bypassing enough air.
Also.. the additional air increases cylinder pressure=higher HP. Dont forget to run higher octane fuel. Much higher. And if you plan on using the nitrous for cooling.. better buy a fill station.. your going to go through a lot.
For a simple 100 shot.. wouldnt it be easier to run a few extra PSI boost and make the power? Maybe increase the IC size vs spending money on the nitrous? That way no fill, extra power, etc..
Also.. the additional air increases cylinder pressure=higher HP. Dont forget to run higher octane fuel. Much higher. And if you plan on using the nitrous for cooling.. better buy a fill station.. your going to go through a lot.
For a simple 100 shot.. wouldnt it be easier to run a few extra PSI boost and make the power? Maybe increase the IC size vs spending money on the nitrous? That way no fill, extra power, etc..
Fwiw the engine was using about 900hp worth of fuel with the N2O so about 150hp per hole. I used 110 octane and alky. I had a 10gph and a 15gph nozzle. Ambient temp was 90* and I ran 19-18* timing 10.1:1 a/f. I'm sure I would have been fine targeting 10.3:1 with the non oxygenated 110 but i didn't know how it was going to react so I left it slightly richer.
Well pulled the pin and bought myself a Fathers Day gift and picked up a 50-150 NOS dry shot kit and a Nano nitrous setup . I know the Nano setup is a little over kill for a small shot , but didn't want the hassle of dealing with heater bottle pressures and BS . and may bump up the shot in the future
for those not familiar with the Nano system check out :
http://www.nanonitrous.com/
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_1003_nano_nitrous_system/viewall.html
for those not familiar with the Nano system check out :
http://www.nanonitrous.com/
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_1003_nano_nitrous_system/viewall.html
