dumb newb ?
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Squid4life
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Off center is the factory setup, on center is for stage 2 engines. On center centers the rod on the wrist pin (.120 difference) and supposedly stands up to more power.
If you need an intake for stock setup, look for off center.
If you need an intake for stock setup, look for off center.
Generally, like James said, most of the cars have the original design engine in it so it's an off center engine. When referring to on center engines it's either a FWD block or a Stage II block and neither of these will work with stock parts.
After market blocks are very limited and the only 1 making one now is TA. Their block can be bought as an on or off center but the price of the block doesn't include the price of the final machine work. What are you wanting to do with the car?
Squid4life
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Possibly kill Z06's Charlie?
Sorry, couldn't help it.
Sorry, couldn't help it.
turbocop294
New Member
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- Sep 18, 2010
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Some of you missed your calling - there's a lot of comic genius on this site!
Some of you missed your calling - there's a lot of comic genius on this site!
They're really out of work comodians.
i bought the car with a low end knock for a decent price. im just looking for a fun reliable 11-10 second cruiser.So i have to tear into the motor anyway and i should build a decent motor. like i have said in other threads, i am new to this gn stuff but not cars. i have been building and racing mustangs for awhile now. in 07-08 i built a 275 drag radial car that was running 5.50's 8.80's and i drove it around alot. im looking to keep this a cruiser with all the creature comforts. so any info will help. heck i dont even know what a stage block is LOL. Here is a pic of my last fox. i had the 557bbf 67 after that
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Welcome to the gm side. Lol. I also had a mustang. I got it to go 9.8's at 141 but got too expensive so i sold it and got my gn. Mine will also be a cruiser. I would probably do the same thing you are wanting to do if i was in your shoes but be warned, it takes alot more money to make these cars run fast. Mustangs were just easier to make them get into the 10 sec range.
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
They're really out of work comodians.
Comodian, Freudian slip charlie?
Google's going to have a problem with your Toilet humor
I don't know anyone named Freud Alan.
As far as a 10 second car goes, it can be done, but if you upgrade the engine and turbo to do it then you'll need to upgrade the tranny at the same time. These cars aren't rocket science but they're not for the faint of checkbook or impatient. The engine, turbo, exhaust, and tranny will cost you more than you probably paid for the car. To keep the engine alive you can't get just anyone to put it together and hope it stays together. If you're able to do a lot of the work yourself then you're ahead of the game some, but if you plan on having someone do it for you then you just bought one of the biggest money pits you'll ever see.
Rafs-T-Type
Not so Senior Member
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For 10's -11's go for a stock block aka a 109 block. No need for a stage block at that level. Just get some good internals if you are aiming for low 10's. Stock blocks with stock internals can live in the 11's for quite a while. FWIW there are people in the 8's on a 109 block, but they are freaks of nature. If you want to find a good small block builder just do some searches on here. The topic has been discussed many times. Here's a good old school thread (2007) with a low 10-sec combo from Grumpy - http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/no-nines-but-gaining-ground-until.227347/. Good luck!
so stock block with a girdle? billit caps, or both?
The car has a decent start to parts. trans is a built 200r4 2800 converter. has alto red clutches 300m input, billet servo, and a few other things, the trans build cost the guy $2495 plus the converter. also has 255 pump, hot wire kit, turbonetics 60mm turbo. headers, scanmaster 2.1, i have new hyd roller link bar lifters, cam,springs,locks, cam button. i was told it has 60lb injectors (i wish i knew how to tell) 2 turbo tweak chips a pump gas and meth, and a e85, and the stock one. aeromotive rail mount adj regulator. and maybe some things i dont know about HA!
should i use stock stroke? how about alum heads? rockers? if i buy the billet main caps, would anything need machined? obviously i will put arp bolts/studs where i can. when i change this to hyd roller do i need to change the gear on the cam sensor? I see they make cometic head gaskets for this motor, does felpro make a MLS gasket for them? I had good luck with them on my mustangs. anything special i should know about putting this motor together?
thanks for the help
The car has a decent start to parts. trans is a built 200r4 2800 converter. has alto red clutches 300m input, billet servo, and a few other things, the trans build cost the guy $2495 plus the converter. also has 255 pump, hot wire kit, turbonetics 60mm turbo. headers, scanmaster 2.1, i have new hyd roller link bar lifters, cam,springs,locks, cam button. i was told it has 60lb injectors (i wish i knew how to tell) 2 turbo tweak chips a pump gas and meth, and a e85, and the stock one. aeromotive rail mount adj regulator. and maybe some things i dont know about HA!
should i use stock stroke? how about alum heads? rockers? if i buy the billet main caps, would anything need machined? obviously i will put arp bolts/studs where i can. when i change this to hyd roller do i need to change the gear on the cam sensor? I see they make cometic head gaskets for this motor, does felpro make a MLS gasket for them? I had good luck with them on my mustangs. anything special i should know about putting this motor together?
thanks for the help
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I don't know anyone named Freud Alan.
As far as a 10 second car goes, it can be done, but if you upgrade the engine and turbo to do it then you'll need to upgrade the tranny at the same time. These cars aren't rocket science but they're not for the faint of checkbook or impatient. The engine, turbo, exhaust, and tranny will cost you more than you probably paid for the car. To keep the engine alive you can't get just anyone to put it together and hope it stays together. If you're able to do a lot of the work yourself then you're ahead of the game some, but if you plan on having someone do it for you then you just bought one of the biggest money pits you'll ever see.
You ain't kiddin'!
Let's start a little slower. Go to your user controls and add some info like location. There's lots of members that will offer to help you but they need to know where you are. Billet caps or a girdle will need machine work done and both will work for what you want out of the car. Make sure the shop you pick to do the work has done quite a few Buick engines (several hundred with good results) or you're going to get burned. Start doing research on the board and hit the search button. You might also find a deal on an engine already built in the for sale section.
Make plan on what you want how how you intend to get there, and expect changes. I don't know how many times I've had to change my plans because something came up.
These cars aren't cheap and an average short block will cost you $4-5 grand, and a good one may cost as much as $10K. One other thing to remember is if you build it for the 9's and drive it in the high 10's or 11's it will live a long and happy life, but if you build it for 11's and try to get in the 10's you might get there, but only once or twice before you have to start over.
Make plan on what you want how how you intend to get there, and expect changes. I don't know how many times I've had to change my plans because something came up.
These cars aren't cheap and an average short block will cost you $4-5 grand, and a good one may cost as much as $10K. One other thing to remember is if you build it for the 9's and drive it in the high 10's or 11's it will live a long and happy life, but if you build it for 11's and try to get in the 10's you might get there, but only once or twice before you have to start over.Think of it as a warning more than a get out now. As an example, I built an NA H body in the mid 80's for road racing. I wanted the Buick V6 done right and Rhere and Morrison were doing the indy blocks at the time so I had them do the block. Just to bore all 6 holes with a torque plate was $600, and that was almost 30 years ago. If you want to build it take your time and do the research so you don't get burned. It can be done if you're willing to do some scrounging and take your time. If you want to just get it going you can do that as well but how long it will run and how much fun it will be is up to you.
