Dyna Tech Stage 3 chip

[wheelstands]

Only mod I've found so far is the Dyno Tech stage 3 chip. No adjustable rod, stock injectors and the boost is pegging the stock gauge. I would take any recommendations as far as the fuel pump upgrade part number. Again, I just purchased the car and am new to all this info. I did have two new grand nationals back in the 80's but they were never modified. I'm learning a ton from you guys, I just don't want to hurt the motor.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

Stock gauge is inaccurate. Do not go WOT with it...especially with that chip. 255 pump from your favorite vendor. And get yourself a TT chip. Personally, I wouldn't drive it until the TT chip and new pump are in it. You'll need a SM to keep an eye on things and a boost gauge as well. And a fuel pressure gauge on the end of the rail to set the fuel pressure and an AFPR for Erics chip.

 

[V6sleeper]

Only mod I've found so far is the Dyno Tech stage 3 chip. No adjustable rod, stock injectors and the boost is pegging the stock gauge. I would take any recommendations as far as the fuel pump upgrade part number. Again, I just purchased the car and am new to all this info. I did have two new grand nationals back in the 80's but they were never modified. I'm learning a ton from you guys, I just don't want to hurt the motor.

Get a new chip,injectors, pump and a hot wire kit to be on the safe side and stay out of boost until you do..
then you can start from there with other things

 

[JayC]

When I was at the track with fred there was another guy with him looking at things.

Joe and Fred did not live close to each other so thats not surprising.

Im about 99% sure Joe did his chips. There werent a lot of guys doing them back then. Just like me, a whole bunch of places sold our stuff without saying it was our stuff.

 

[wheelstands]

Update. It's been a bit getting here. I removed the Dyno Tech stage 3 chip. I ordered and installed a TT chip and experienced immediate severe audible knock. Ordered and installed a scanmaster to find what I was hearing was indeed severe Knock. I ordered and installed a new 255L fuel pump with a hotwire kit and a FPR set to 43 lps hose off. I noticed while using the old fuel pump to empty the tank, the flow wouldn't fill the hose as gas exited into the can. The new pump moved much more fuel. Now, I didn't notice KR unless the tires were spinning and under extreme throttle off dead stop. The boost is now about 17 lbs and the KR is not severe with no audible knock. I got under the car and got a look at the exhaust where someone had removed the cat and replaced it with an electric cutout. The downpipe was rubbing hard on the inside of the frame due to bad fabrication. I removed some of the exhaust hanger arm from the transmission mount to allow for some clearance and I'm hoping that may eliminate any false KR. I still can't explain why I didn't hear any knock with the Dyno Tech stage 3 chip but I feel like I'm making progress.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

You shoot for ZERO KR. What's the BLM's in Park with the engine at operating temperature.

 

[wheelstands]

Snowing hard out there right now but I'll should get out to the shop tomorrow to get the blm at idle. Probably won't be driving it for a couple days so I don't know if the exhaust rub helped. What KR I have left seems to be intermittent mostly during wheel spin so that's why I was looking for false KR. I'm not seeing KR during WOT after the tire spin. I think my next upgrade will be 42 lb injectors and chip. But only when I get KR under control. Then maybe some alcohol if the 42 lb injectors will be sufficient. thank for the reply.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Exh hitting is one issue.
The engine/trans mounts are another. Check them before you go further.
Retorque the knock sensor. 14#/ft. Clean threads, nothing on them.

 

[wheelstands]

Thanks Chuck. Would I be able to see a defect in the motor or transmission mounts or would that require removal? I have checked mounts by watching the motor while holding the brake off idle, so I'll try that first. I'll get a check on the knock sensor. The car only has 40k miles on it but I'm sure the mounts could be gone. The cat removal and exhaust cutout install were clearly a botched job by the previous owner, but I have good frame clearance now. Hopefully, this snow melts quickly so I can get back out.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

The car only has 40k miles on it but I'm sure the mounts could be gone.

30 yrs is a long time for rubber to be exposed to the heat, elements, and repeated stretching.
Brake torque it and take a look.
A look at the trans mount is also a good idea.
In any case, a new set might be a good investment.

 

[~JM~]

...Would I be able to see a defect in the motor or transmission mounts or would that require removal?

Crawl under the passenger side front & stick your finger into the rubber between the steel mounts.