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Yes i figured that out thanks.lol so if my wastegate is a 17 to 30# . i need to pull lever shorter to allow some relief of pressure? Otherwise it would hold till 30#. Is this correct? My aem controller/gauge has to lines coming out. One is to wastegate other to turbo. Is this pulling vacuum from turbo thru controller then wastegate?

I am unfamiliar with the aem controller, but first don't think in terms of vacuum, think in terms of pressure. Boost controllers control how much air pressure will end up aiding or opposing some kind of mechanical spring pressure in the wastegate. The spring pressure is normally always used to set a default amount of exhaust pressure that is required to open the turbine bypass hole. So I think, the aem controller is controlling the amount of pressure that is accumulating in the wastegate to help overcome the spring pressure. Electronic controllers do this by venting unwanted pressure to the atmosphere, thus keeping a certain amount of pressure present that will aid the exhaust in compressing the wastegate spring, thus opening the exhaust bypass hole. I hope this is not confusing. Just take a second to lookup a diagram of a single port wastegate.
 
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Not confusing but I was. That wastegate lever has a threaded rod. The tip turns to make it shorter or longer then a nut is used to keep tight. I notice when i put this back on it was hard to get on and puck was fully closed. Looking at this the longer added more pressure on the puck staying closed. Almost where the rod had a bow in it. . very hard to get on. That's why i was thinking it was pushing the puck harder then needed. If the rod pulled in the puck would release pressure.
 
This is a ta performance inch downpipe.. Not sure if this matters.
 
Ok just got home and yes i was wrong. Lever pushes out puck opens. Just to let you to know i am a polish so you know what they say...
 
Just keep it simple, lengthening the rod decreases boost. Shortening the rod increases boost.
Now lets lengthen that rod until you read 16-17psi on your boost gauge. If at any time, when running, the boost goes higher than 18psi TAKE YOUR FOOT OFF THE PEDAL. You must learn to drive with one eye on the road and the other eye constantly scanning your gauges.
 
I don't care how new and built that engine is, it will break before you can blink. All the power of these V6s are in the Turbo/Injector/converter combinations. The engine is just holding on during the ride.
 
Another question.. I have two broken plastic lines coming from the esc? Sensor. Where do these hook up too? Dont look like vacuum lines
 
Fired the car uo and let get up to temp a few times seems like the timing might be off a little. I notice one of the screws came off the cap of the timing sensor. I put one back on . is this right? Any adjustment to thus? Didnt look like it. Red light is one when running
 
thinblack plastic lines approx 1/8" OD ... hvac
one is source for the hvac controller (goes to vac check valve at back of driver valve cover by firewall
the other is signal from the hvac controller for the heater flow control valve by back of pass valve cover

only other plastic vac line is for the map sensor on pass inner fender for the analog dash boost gauge
 
Fired the car uo and let get up to temp a few times seems like the timing might be off a little. I notice one of the screws came off the cap of the timing sensor. I put one back on . is this right? Any adjustment to thus? Didnt look like it. Red light is one when running

I never did have one of those fancy red light on the cam sensor cap, so I don't know that one. Timing is set by the computer if the cam sensor is setup properly, you should not have a problem with it. The "popular way" to troubleshoot these engine is go ahead and buy a spare crank sensor, cam sensor, complete coil pack, MAF, etc. When something is suspect, replace it with the spare, if this does not fix it, replace the spare you just used with the one you took off LOL, if it does fix the issue, then discard the part. If you own a turbo Buick, I promise you will have a shelf in a garage that has nothing but "ready to go" parts LOL.
 
What is the purpose of this cap with a red light ? Is there adjustment to it? I set the 1 cyl at tdc and my light is not on. But lights up when car runs. Is there any adjustment needed to do? I see the cap looks like it could rotate some. .
 
I never did have one of those fancy red light on the cam sensor cap, so I don't know that one. Timing is set by the computer if the cam sensor is setup properly, you should not have a problem with it. The "popular way" to troubleshoot these engine is go ahead and buy a spare crank sensor, cam sensor, complete coil pack, MAF, etc. When something is suspect, replace it with the spare, if this does not fix it, replace the spare you just used with the one you took off LOL, if it does fix the issue, then discard the part. If you own a turbo Buick, I promise you will have a shelf in a garage that has nothing but "ready to go" parts LOL.


Yes im beginning to have lots of spare parts.
 
I just wanted to take the time time to thank all who have helped me. I'm out driving my baby and wife wants me to come home. Its very hard enjoying my time behind the wheel. Tomorrow will try and tackle powerlogger. Thanks again to all and this forum.
 
Did you get the cam sensor understood? There is a wealth of information on how to setup the cam sensor in here, and other sites
 
If your driving it then I suppose you. got the cam sensor phased in good enough for Detroit.LOL
 
I got to get threw this honey do list so i can get back on this car.
 
Im lost again with thus car.. Drove car for a few days runs great. Decided to see how car performs stomp gas wot cars get up to 10 # sounds like a minor backfire blows plumbing tube off throttle body. Wtf ok I'm thinking it wasn't on tight run it again. Same backfire. Car runs good until i get up in boost.
 
Take the cap off the cam sensor. Grab the metal reluctor ring and see if you can spin it by hand. If you can spin it then you have broken the "tab" off the reluctor ring which is there to hold the reluctor ring in phase with # 1 piston at 25deg of rotation after top dead center. This is a typical issue with a stock cam sensor and causes backfires.
 
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