E85 goooo?

[BEATAV8]

The intake has a little goo in the runners, the injectors are clean from what I can see. I agree it's an oil issue, as far as A/F ratio it's very lean on cruise,14.7 idle around 13.0 and wot is 10.8..I need to continue using E85,should I remove the PVC and what oil brand would you recommend?

I would remove the PCV and block it off. Use a couple of low restriction open breathers, 1 on each valve cover. I use valvoline, haven't identified any concerns with it.

 

[LSTTYPE]

I'm using valvoline vr1 straight 40wt oil. Is this an ok oil to use with e85? Also it says on the box of the vr1 that it is hi zinc. Would I still need to add zddp?

 

[CGASTON]

I'm using valvoline vr1 straight 40wt oil. Is this an ok oil to use with e85? Also it says on the box of the vr1 that it is hi zinc. Would I still need to add zddp?

I have not noticed, if any, really minuet trace of ethanol soaking with Valvoline. I will run a 50 in the summer with a bottle a ZDDP. When I used Brad Peen oil, within a couple of hours you could smell the ethanol in the oil.

 

[dvernst]

I run without a PCV, never seen that goo in mine.

Same here Al Anabi!

 

[Turbo38V6]

I have not noticed, if any, really minuet trace of ethanol soaking with Valvoline. I will run a 50 in the summer with a bottle a ZDDP. When I used Brad Peen oil, within a couple of hours you could smell the ethanol in the oil.

Clint, what viscosity are you using?

 

[CGASTON]

Clint, what viscosity are you using?

Lloyd,

So how are you doing. I wondered how your car has been doing. We should talk..... So on to topic......

So what a lot of people really dont realize is that in oil such as 20W50, the W stands for "WINTER", not weight. The weight in proper terms is Viscosity. That would be the 50. So we have an oil that is good for semi cold winters and 100*ish summers. For winters such as yours (that is if you drive your car in the winter - GOD I HOPE NOT), I would run an 5/10w and 30 or 50 depending on the starting (if it cranks over easily or not when it is really cold). Well with the Ill. summers and humidity, we know that that oil is already pretty warm (ambient temp), So I would probably run a 20W50.

But out here in AZ, where it gets hot..... From Sierra Vista to Phoenix, lot of us will run the VR1 50....... Cause as we all know that the warmer the oil gets, we can watch the oil pressure drop off a little. And in the winter I probably get away with running a VR1 40 or a 20W50.

Valvoline has been developed and test for gas and alcohol engines (more like methonal and Nitromethane). But with the spread of E85, it is a great choice of oil to use.

Check out these links -

http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/20w-50/6 (can get in a straight 50)

http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/20w-50/8 - (this would be a really good choice for high rpm cars)

http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/racing-motor-oil/9 - (or just go all out)

Valvoline oils provide:

• High zinc/phosphorus provides extreme wear protection, including flat tappet applications
• Low detergent formula to deliver maximum horsepower on the track
• Compatible with gasoline or alcohol fuels

Straight Weight vs. Multi-GradeEngine oil can be either a straight weight or a multi-grade viscosity. Originally, all oil was straight weight. Relatively few straight weights are manufactured today since most gas- or diesel-engine manufacturers recommend multi-grades. At operating temperature, a straight weight performs just as well as a multi-viscosity oil, and there is nothing wrong with using a straight weight. It's just a simpler form of oil. Some diesel fleets still use straight weights, as do about half the piston aircraft operators.


The difference between multi-grade and straight-weight oil is simply the addition of a viscosity improving (VI) additive. The most common grade of automotive oil in use today is the 5W/30, which is a mineral oil refined with VI additives that leave it reading as an SAE 5W viscosity when cold, yet an SAE 30W when hot (210F). The advantage to the multi-weight is that when starting the engine, the multi-viscosity oil (with its thickness of an SAE 5W when cold), allows the engine to spin over more easily.


The most common diesel use oil is 15W/40. It is an SAE 15W oil with a VI additive that leaves it the thickness of an SAE 40 weight at operating temperature. What makes an oil a diesel-use oil (rather than automotive-use) is the level of additives used. Diesels require heavier levels of dispersant and anti-wear additives. These heavier additive levels are objectionable for automotive engines since they may interfere with the emission controls mandated by the EPA.

 

[CGASTON]

Still doesnt hurt to add a little VDDP....

 

[Turbo38V6]

Lloyd,

So how are you doing. I wondered how your car has been doing. We should talk..... So on to topic......

So what a lot of people really dont realize is that in oil such as 20W50, the W stands for "WINTER", not weight. The weight in proper terms is Viscosity. That would be the 50. So we have an oil that is good for semi cold winters and 100*ish summers. For winters such as yours (that is if you drive your car in the winter - GOD I HOPE NOT), I would run an 5/10w and 30 or 50 depending on the starting (if it cranks over easily or not when it is really cold). Well with the Ill. summers and humidity, we know that that oil is already pretty warm (ambient temp), So I would probably run a 20W50.

But out here in AZ, where it gets hot..... From Sierra Vista to Phoenix, lot of us will run the VR1 50....... Cause as we all know that the warmer the oil gets, we can watch the oil pressure drop off a little. And in the winter I probably get away with running a VR1 40 or a 20W50.

Valvoline has been developed and test for gas and alcohol engines (more like methonal and Nitromethane). But with the spread of E85, it is a great choice of oil to use.

Check out these links -

http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/20w-50/6 (can get in a straight 50)

http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/20w-50/8 - (this would be a really good choice for high rpm cars)

http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/racing-motor-oil/9 - (or just go all out)

Valvoline oils provide:

• High zinc/phosphorus provides extreme wear protection, including flat tappet applications
• Low detergent formula to deliver maximum horsepower on the track
• Compatible with gasoline or alcohol fuels

Straight Weight vs. Multi-GradeEngine oil can be either a straight weight or a multi-grade viscosity. Originally, all oil was straight weight. Relatively few straight weights are manufactured today since most gas- or diesel-engine manufacturers recommend multi-grades. At operating temperature, a straight weight performs just as well as a multi-viscosity oil, and there is nothing wrong with using a straight weight. It's just a simpler form of oil. Some diesel fleets still use straight weights, as do about half the piston aircraft operators.

The difference between multi-grade and straight-weight oil is simply the addition of a viscosity improving (VI) additive. The most common grade of automotive oil in use today is the 5W/30, which is a mineral oil refined with VI additives that leave it reading as an SAE 5W viscosity when cold, yet an SAE 30W when hot (210F). The advantage to the multi-weight is that when starting the engine, the multi-viscosity oil (with its thickness of an SAE 5W when cold), allows the engine to spin over more easily.

The most common diesel use oil is 15W/40. It is an SAE 15W oil with a VI additive that leaves it the thickness of an SAE 40 weight at operating temperature. What makes an oil a diesel-use oil (rather than automotive-use) is the level of additives used. Diesels require heavier levels of dispersant and anti-wear additives. These heavier additive levels are objectionable for automotive engines since they may interfere with the emission controls mandated by the EPA.

Clint man, good to hear from you. Sorry for the late response, been a busy weekend. Let's chat this week, nothing really new on this front. Thanks for the thorough post bud. Definitely going to avoid Brad Penn and go with the VR1. Had a nice conversation with BP on Friday and I walked away just thinking not the right oil for my setup.

 

[CGASTON]

Clint man, good to hear from you. Sorry for the late response, been a busy weekend. Let's chat this week, nothing really new on this front. Thanks for the thorough post bud. Definitely going to avoid Brad Penn and go with the VR1. Had a nice conversation with BP on Friday and I walked away just thinking not the right oil for my setup.

There is a letter from Brad Penn running around here on the board somewhere.... If I can find a copy, I will post it. Lets talk. I am in class until 10pm Mon-Thursday until the 15th of May. But I am free on Fri-Sun

 

[seeya v6]

Just a comment about using a diesel oil especially in a turbo engine, it contains lots more detergent than regular oil and it may be washing cylinder wall crud into the crankcase which can make its way into the intake in the form of vapor if you are using a PCV?

Rotella also does not have as much anti-foaming additive as regular oil, and my diesel usually is never over 3000 RPM, and usually at 2200 RPM.

Glad you posted your info, and I would be interested in your location/climate conditions?

We have over 3 years experience with many e-85 cars locally, both turbo and carbed, and never seen what you have experienced, and some have been apart during this period.

• I have my rebuilt motor in and running,what oil do you use? I have removed PCV for now, my elevation is sea level with humid summers and cold winters. Long Island New York

 

[delcowizzid]

E85 and phosphorus zinc substitutes in oil don't play nice together from what I've read can turn into one of 3 compounds inside the engine depending on conditions

Sent from my LT26w using Tapatalk

 

[belsie]

And...............?

 

[Ttype6]

Still doesnt hurt to add a little VDDP....

It can. The problem is that you have no way of knowing.

 

[Ttype6]

E85 and phosphorus zinc substitutes in oil don't play nice together from what I've read can turn into one of 3 compounds inside the engine depending on conditions

Sent from my LT26w using Tapatalk

Driven oils have plenty of ZDDP. They advertize their synthetics as E85 compatible.

 

[Ttype6]

Clint man, good to hear from you. Sorry for the late response, been a busy weekend. Let's chat this week, nothing really new on this front. Thanks for the thorough post bud. Definitely going to avoid Brad Penn and go with the VR1. Had a nice conversation with BP on Friday and I walked away just thinking not the right oil for my setup.

Bradd Penn officially recommends that you don't use their oil in E85 applications.

 

[626gn]

E85 and phosphorus zinc substitutes in oil don't play nice together from what I've read can turn into one of 3 compounds inside the engine depending on conditions

Sent from my LT26w using Tapatalk

I'd be interested in seeing the supporting data.

 

[Hot Air]

I recently had a problem with engine not wanting to idle (die dead when leave foot off gas pedal). Of course, I had lean backfire before that. I have been running about 50% E85 for last year. Find out that my Aeromotive 40 micron filter was totally covered with black/brown material and most of injectors were plugged...one would flow less than 50% of rated capacity. Jcck Cotton helped me troubleshoot situation. We had to double VE on FAST XFI to get it to idle somewhat! FP gauge showed adequate pressure. Most of the injector baskets were completely full of the brown "mud". Cannot wait to get the cleaned injectors back and see how it runs. FWIW, new SS tank and Aeromotive pump.

 

[Hot Air]

One other thing, who makes an E85-compatible oil?
Conrad

 

[Chuck Leeper]

I recently had a problem with engine not wanting to idle (die dead when leave foot off gas pedal). Of course, I had lean backfire before that. I have been running about 50% E85 for last year. Find out that my Aeromotive 40 micron filter was totally covered with black/brown material and most of injectors were plugged...one would flow less than 50% of rated capacity. Jcck Cotton helped me troubleshoot situation. We had to double VE on FAST XFI to get it to idle somewhat! FP gauge showed adequate pressure. Most of the injector baskets were completely full of the brown "mud". Cannot wait to get the cleaned injectors back and see how it runs. FWIW, new SS tank and Aeromotive pump.

The pics I posted are your injs.........
How about posting the B4 and after pics of the filter.

 

[Rafs-T-Type]

One other thing, who makes an E85-compatible oil?
Conrad

A lot of other boosted forums like Rotella, which is now my oil of choice. I've never had goo with any oil though.