Even though this is barely worth answering I will. First off no way I could get panels to look at much less take out of the lab. Secondly, you don't want that stuff man, talk about instant cancer and stuff. Finally it is more the geometry of the aircraft that accounts for the stealth nature of the aircraft than the coatings. I suggest you buy a good radar detector since the only way I can see to make your car radar invisible is make it completely out of plastic or make it look like the unaerodynamic "cockroach" that the F-117 is. Oh and one last thing, turn the caps lock off, thats considered shouting and not very polite.
Eagle Cranks
- Thread starter southern boost
- Start date
turbo buicks
ESADAH!!!
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2002
I KNOW, IT WAS A JOKE <----NOTE: NOT SHOUTING!
750H.P.V6
Brutal 6 Racing
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2001
Tom,
I think you mis-stated things in this quote:
Most of the really fast guys are running all the goodies that you would use in a Stage II engine. Including forged steel or billet crankshafts and rods etc. This isn't to say that there aren't guys using stock crank and rod combos (Jason Cramer comes to mind) but the smart money is on running the Heavy duty components.
Building a 700+ H.P. 9second capable stock block isn't a cheap proposition no matter how many people would lead it is.
Neal
I think you mis-stated things in this quote:
Most of the really fast guys are running all the goodies that you would use in a Stage II engine. Including forged steel or billet crankshafts and rods etc. This isn't to say that there aren't guys using stock crank and rod combos (Jason Cramer comes to mind) but the smart money is on running the Heavy duty components.
Building a 700+ H.P. 9second capable stock block isn't a cheap proposition no matter how many people would lead it is.
Neal
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
Yes, for the Buick turbo motor with crank sensor wheel.
tminer
Not quite normal
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
It's always something, isn't it?
I'm dissappointed that ATI mentions the pulley position issue with the external, but doesn't indicate anything about the lack of a crank trigger.
I really liked the ATI over the BFH because it was 6" and rebuildable.
Neal,
I didn't mean to imply that ALL were doing it, but I did ASSume that Jason wasn't the only one.
Tom
musclecar neal
Engine Builder
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2002
Just to add to the confusion. The term " harmonic balancer" is incorrect. There is no such thing. The correct term is harmonic damper.
tminer
Not quite normal
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Originally posted by Tony87gn
Took my crank to my machinist today and he said I wouldnt need a damper and flexplate, said he could do it without it. Should I tell him otherwise or wait until he possibly f's it up so maybe he will buy that stuff for me?
For internal balance he doesn't need the external pieces to balance the rest of the rotating assembly. That doesn't imply that you can throw any old flexplate and hub/dampner on it. They need to be zero/neutral balance. The stock pieces are not.
Whether or not aftermarket zero/neutral balance pieces are good enough out of the box is another issue. But they only need to be dealt with (zero balanced) on their own.
HTH,
Tom
My guess would be that Scott's crank failed from low cycle fatigue. The cast crank probably has a tensile strength somewhere in the 70 to 80 thousand psi range, but the fatigue strength of a casting is lower than that of a forging. Look here:
http://www.autosteel.org/pdfs/gdis_2004_mochnal.pdf ]Forged steel vs cast iron. So even with a "flexible" block, the fatigue life of a forged crank would be much greater than that of a casting.
http://www.autosteel.org/pdfs/gdis_2004_mochnal.pdf ]Forged steel vs cast iron. So even with a "flexible" block, the fatigue life of a forged crank would be much greater than that of a casting.
tminer
Not quite normal
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Flex is good. That is what keeps it from breaking. It is all in the tradeoffs, including the costs.
The scariest part for me is that I am doing it myself, with MUCH help from the boards, the Internet, some vendors and other enthusiasts.
In the long run it might be cheaper to have it done for me, but what's the fun in that?
I just keep telling myself that it is just tuition money.
Tom
The scariest part for me is that I am doing it myself, with MUCH help from the boards, the Internet, some vendors and other enthusiasts.
In the long run it might be cheaper to have it done for me, but what's the fun in that?
I just keep telling myself that it is just tuition money.
Tom
texasturbo
Member
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2001
Maybe the stock style piston let go first.......then took out the crank....Either way, sorry to hear and see your bad luck. Makes me want to turn the boost down.........Nah!!!!!! good luck......
3.8Illusion
boost junkie
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2001
just curious if anyone thinks about the phrase "you get what you pay for" it seems like a big jump from a Scat crank. sure its billet but damn $2600. thats a big difference to $700 eagle. it all sounds good but i want to see how well these cranks will do? any one have a suggest hp limit?
We learned the power limits on most of our parts is by the failures. I am willing to bet that is the same way we will learn on this new crank. In a best case it will be the strongest thing in the bottom end of a stock block and we will all be happy.
The guy who will not be happy will be the first guy to break one. We will all be waiting to see it the crank is the part that fails or if it now all becomes a case of starting to look for more ways to strengthen the lower case.
The guy who will not be happy will be the first guy to break one. We will all be waiting to see it the crank is the part that fails or if it now all becomes a case of starting to look for more ways to strengthen the lower case.
Wll,i need some help
Got the new eagle crank and the steel mains.I noticed that the crank had no knurl on it like the stock.Call eagle,they said they will be making the new cranks with the knurl and if I wanted I could send my back and have it done there or to have a machine shop in my area do it for me.Now is anyone using BBc rear main with the knurl(or looks like a knurl) on the rear seal?Should i not worry about the knurl and use what for the rear main?
I just bought a new sfi flex plate for my stock motor(a month ago,until I found i had a spun bearing and decieded to go with the eagle crank.So do I now need a BHJ balancer and new flex plate?The rotating assemble will be getting balanced once i have everything.Any part numbers and other info that i miied will help .I ordered a new alum champ heads ,new atr headers,new roller cam settiming cover,water pump.I figured since the engine was out,I would build it up.Oh ya,what bearings to use for the crank and I'm using stock rods and pistons.
All help will be weclomed!
Mike Kuruc
905 9717374
Got the new eagle crank and the steel mains.I noticed that the crank had no knurl on it like the stock.Call eagle,they said they will be making the new cranks with the knurl and if I wanted I could send my back and have it done there or to have a machine shop in my area do it for me.Now is anyone using BBc rear main with the knurl(or looks like a knurl) on the rear seal?Should i not worry about the knurl and use what for the rear main?
I just bought a new sfi flex plate for my stock motor(a month ago,until I found i had a spun bearing and decieded to go with the eagle crank.So do I now need a BHJ balancer and new flex plate?The rotating assemble will be getting balanced once i have everything.Any part numbers and other info that i miied will help .I ordered a new alum champ heads ,new atr headers,new roller cam settiming cover,water pump.I figured since the engine was out,I would build it up.Oh ya,what bearings to use for the crank and I'm using stock rods and pistons.
All help will be weclomed!
Mike Kuruc
905 9717374
