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Earl Brown "Mini Starter"

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brandnu6

Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2014
Messages
207
Hello everyone. Finally got around to changing out starter motor. Had a second "Heat Soak" issue! So, I got some stuff out of the way, crossover pipe, inspection cover and removed oem starter. The first thing I noticed was original starter had 9 tooth pinon gear, the new starter, has 11? I understand that this is for "gear reduction" and it spins a little faster, But I'm not sure I feel comfortable installing higher tooth count stater. I'm not even sure how many teeth the flex plate has, 153 or 168. or if that even matters. Also, from what I have read, in addition to using "paper clip for "tooth engagement," the "pinion gear " should NOT "fully engage" the "flex plate." When I slid out "starter drive" to set the "clearance," I noticed that the "starter gear" became "fully engaged" with the flex plate. In other words, 100%. That will make it more difficult for gear to "retract!" I know Earl has been around a long time, and has a great reputation but, something just does not "feel right!" I can see it now, after starting the car, the stater won't "disengage." :mad: And I would be running to "disconnect" the battery! Can somebody please convince me that this "will not happen." I do not want to create MORE problems for myself. Thanks very much...
 
Use these starters frequently. Have 3 of them installed on my cars. They’re good.

Shim as needed. The only thing I worry about is binding / too tight when shimming.
 
Use these starters frequently. Have 3 of them installed on my cars. They’re good.

Shim as needed. The only thing I worry about is binding / too tight when shimming.
Good morning. Thanks for reply. So, do they need to be shimmed? Or should I install without shimming, and "cross my fingers?" There are other starters out there "Power master" for instance, that have 9 tooth drives. The OEM starter did not have any Shims at all! I don't want to make this an all day, back and forth ordeal! PXL_20250726_170836523.jpg
 
Install it and check the gear engagement. Go from there.
Thanks again for your quick reply. What about the fact that the starter gear "fully" engages with the "flex plate? Apparently, there are certain staters, I think they are called "open face" starters, can actually be "gasketed to reduce this engagement situation. It seems like something that should be considered, wouldn't you agree? By the way, checking clearances with a "paperclip" seems a little inaccurate to me, and not that easy to do. Is there another "more accurate" way to check gear engagement? To avoid "adding shims" and get it right the first time? Just my thoughts.
 
dont they have better stuff these days?.................................thats so early 2000s chuckie
It's true, when you speak to people "in the know" you get GOOD information! When I received starter that was supposed to come with "bolts" it didn't? So, I went to local speed shop to buy "correct length" bolts, they are shorter. I said this is for an"LT1" motor from the 90's. It wasn't. The bolt length was still "too long!" So, I called someone "in the know." And he informed me that those were nothing but, [you ready for this,] "Forklift starters!" So, I called speed shop and ordered a "Power master" starter that is a "direct fit" for our cars. Not only that but, it's redesigned so that the "solenoid" is mounted in a different position on the starter motor! In other words, AWAY from the heat source! NO MORE " heat soak!" Also has "open face" design that can be gasketed to "adjust" engagement of Bendix Drive" if necessary to the "ring gear." I will be returning the one I purchased, unless someone wants to buy it. $125.00 plus shipping. That's how much I payed for it. Let know. PXL_20250523_141443840.jpg
 
hello peoples: I have ACDelco pn 19133944 (not installed) if that helps youz.
IBBY
 
Thanks again for your quick reply. What about the fact that the starter gear "fully" engages with the "flex plate? Apparently, there are certain staters, I think they are called "open face" starters, can actually be "gasketed to reduce this engagement situation. It seems like something that should be considered, wouldn't you agree? By the way, checking clearances with a "paperclip" seems a little inaccurate to me, and not that easy to do. Is there another "more accurate" way to check gear engagement? To avoid "adding shims" and get it right the first time? Just my thoughts.
I would definitely want my starter to be fully engaged, maximum "throw out" from the pinion. Partial engagement would lead to stripped out flexplates.
 
Hi Tim. We are talking the same language! I'm not the kind of guy that installs something unless I am "without question" as to maybe it will be alright. I like to know going in, It's not a 50/50 gamble! That's just plain stupid. We have too much money invested in our cars to "take chances." Like the guy who rebuilt my motor, that said "no problem," I can handle it. Come to find out a couple of years later, with about a thousand or so miles since rebuild, it spun three rod bearings. I do not race this car. I do not even run "Alky!" 17 lbs. of boost on 93 octane, NEVER abused. Long story short, nobody around here, the Boston area, including New Hampshire where there are two or three reputable "engine builders" did not want to have anything to do with it! No B.O.P. rebuilds! LS motors and Ford, that's it. So, I called Nick Micale "RIP", and he told me to crate it up, and ship it to "Zimmerman's Racing" which I did. That was the best money I ever spent. even though I had to pay shipping both ways, it didn't matter. I had piece of mind, knowing I would not have any issues. Thanks very much for good strait up advice, no bullshit! take care Brother.PXL_20250628_134026554.jpg
 
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