?Easy way to remove stripped allen bolt?

Royal-T-Ltd

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2003
OK I have a stripped allen head bolt that connects my D/P to my turbo. Since the winter months are almost here I want to fix everything that is wrong with the car. What is the best way to remove this bolt.
TIA
 
Get an easy out (Looks like a reverse twisted piece of metal) and drill out a hole then put the easy out i the hole and put a ratchet on it....Should come out that way, but you might need to heat it, and make sure you soak it in penatrating fluid for a day first.
 
Probably...Just ask the guy at the counter....once you see it it'll all come together on how to use it...If nothing else I'm sure sear would have it...I got mine (I have kit that came with the drill bits and assorted sizes matched up with the correct drill bits) from Snap-on through my work.
 
Its called a srew extractor. Use the size that is at least half the size of the stud, soak it with WD-40 or penetrating oil and let it sit and then re apply.
 
Also don't buy those cheapy one from the hardware store its probally going to break also and don't get those one piece screw extractors use the one that has a seperate drill bit and screw extractor . If you can find a Snap-on truck go get one and its not that much.
 
Try peening around the hole on the the face of the bolt with a hammer and drift punch or similar reducing the size of the hole. Depending on how damaged the hole is, you might be able to make it small enough so the allen wrench fits tight again. Vise-grip pliers might work also if you can get a good grab on the bolt.:)
 
You Could also try drilling the bolt carefully and going up a size each time until its close , a reverse drill bit works sometimes . If all fails drill it out completly and tap a new hole .
 
Heat is good, too. If the easy out doesn't work at first and looks like it never will, crank it up, warm it up, then brake torque up as much boost as your brakes will hold for about 10 seconds, let it idle for a few seconds, shut it down, and immediately try the easy out again while trying not to get 3rd degree burns :). They also make short hex head easy outs designed to go into socket head cap screws that you can hammer in and turn with a socket, if you can find them. The thdp bolts I measured are M8x30. I've bought both 316SS bolts (about $1 each, ouch, but will never rust or corrode) and grade 12.9 alloy bolts for a lot less from www.mcmaster.com They probably have the easy outs, too.
 
This just happened to me. Took me three hours to get one bolt out. Allen bolts were 6mm.

I had to go get a 1/4 alen (hex) socket so that I could beat it really good with a hammer. The 1/4 inch is a little bigger than 6mm. I couldn't beat the alen wrench in to the bolt with a hammer. This is why i bought the socket. $4.99 at Sears Hardware. Good vise grips are $19.99. The cheaper ones wont work. Believe me. This is why it took me three hours. The 1/4 socket fits perfect on the stripped out 6mm bolt.
I also bought a really good pair of vise grips. Make sure that they have teeth on the outer edge of the claw. Some don't. It won't work if they don't have teeth. Pound the 1/4 alen socket in as far as it will go. Now put on the vise grips around the outer portion of the bolt. Turn both at the same time. It should come out. Don't forget Liquid Wrench.
 
Is the bolt stripped or broken off? You stated stripped meaning it's still there but everyone is replying like its broken off.

If its stripped, try what I mentioned in the above reply. It worked great for me.
 
They make shorter fat screw extractors that you don't have to drill a hole. Just pound it in where the allen is stripped out and unscrew it. I got mine from the mac tool guy, but I think snap on and sears carries them.
Tarey D.
 
Originally posted by Royal-T-Ltd
OK I have a stripped allen head bolt that connects my D/P to my turbo.
were these by chance, stainless steel bolts? Stainless is softer, and will strip easier, than grade 8. When replacing, this is a case where I would opt for the black-oxide grade 8, even though it will develop surface rust over time.
Also , use nickel or copper based anti-seize for next time!
 
Thanx for all the great suggestions. As soon as race season ends next sunday I will be removing the bolt with one of the above mentioned methods. For those who asked - 1. it is stripped not broken. 2. It is stainless not grade 8 and 3. It has anti- seize on it so once i get a hold of it Hopefully it will comes right out w/o any problems. Thanx again
 
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