Ebay 200-4r: Did I get what I paid for?

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Assuming you have bought the trans already. I would not open it up just to confirm the work he is claiming. Especially if you are new to transmissions. I would take a experienced builder to know what your looking at inside an automatic transmission.

Drive it till it breaks then question the build! :biggrin:


x2;) Just because you got it on ebay dosent mean you got beat. I have been beat on ebay but I have also made like a 100 very smooth transaction. But, one usually gets what they pay for and you might end up paying for it twice or more. Or, maybe not. Maybe the guy builds a killer tranny for a reasonable price? Why not? Everyone has to start somewhere.

The question is. Is someone willing to be that person to roll the dice? Well I guess you did. Thats ur decision. I'm no tranny expert, and I would have to concur that it is probably not a good idea for you to start taking things apart. Just my $02;) Cause I sure as **** wouldnt.

Ull probably never have an issue and it will run forever.... On the other hand there are many vendors here that make bullet proof (kinda) trannies. But you do pay for it. You will usually get what you pay for with the top tranny vendors. Hey but its ur money to spend how you please.
 
Chris:

I wasn't debating dual feed for the Direct Clutch. The additional clutches there is what is debated. And yes, I know that will firm up the 2-3 shift by dual feed. I heard that tip years ago for the 200.

-Mike H.

dual feed and Extra clutches work.
 
"We stopped dual feeding the direct clutch sometime
back due to complaints or a delayed reverse engagement,
however there was no noticable change in direct
holding or aplication . The dual feed can cause as
much as a 10 second delay in rev engagement."

This guy is hitting a crack pipe.
 
Like I said in the title, I hated to bring this back up. But I was wondering what this builder was doing to get such a delay in the reverse engagement. The dual feed seems to work for others so I'm thinking this guy(Builder) might not have all the best methods for assembly. Just wondering.
 
Chris:

I wasn't debating dual feed for the Direct Clutch. The additional clutches there is what is debated. And yes, I know that will firm up the 2-3 shift by dual feed. I heard that tip years ago for the 200.

-Mike H.
What i think he meant as well as i thought myself is that there was no mention of a billet shafted drum in there. I dont think adding clutches to direct is the way to go if the thickness of the steels is compromised to do it. Delayed reverse engagement? Must be some other leak in the circuit. I dont ever get delayed engagement in reverse.
 
Maybe he is not blocking the center support bolt hole.
Rich

No way. It would back feed through that hole and cause a set of directs to fail very fast.
 
Not for long if the stock shafted forward drum is employed:eek: .


I've never built one with the dual feed and stock drum but I talk to a reputable builder who does it often for mild hotrods without issue.
I've always done both at the same time since one goes with the other, if you need the dual feed, you need the drum and vice versa IMO.
 
Ok, I forwarded some of your questions on to the builder, and I quoted his reply in blue:



"We actually use a solid spring eliminating movment of the slide. The rings are hardened."

Now that I have some of the experts attention, my next question is why would one wish to stop the pump from pivoting? I thought that the slide was incorporated to regulate fluid volume.
 
Your understanding is correct.

The pump is a variable displacement vane type pump. If you block the slide, it is no longer variable displacement.
It will consume more power, heat the fluid more, and cause more wear on the pump.

The stock pump slide springs (especially when old) are often too weak for high rpm applications and can cause problems but there are fixes for this without totally blocking it.

I also don't like "hardened" rings. Alloy like used in the '97-up 4L60E pumps or TransGo Alloy pump rings in the Hi-Rev kit are the only way to go.
 
Not to bring up a dead thread but what was the verdict? how did it come along? Lots of us want to know.

thanks
-T
 
I've never built one with the dual feed and stock drum but I talk to a reputable builder who does it often for mild hotrods without issue.
I've always done both at the same time since one goes with the other, if you need the dual feed, you need the drum and vice versa IMO.

Agree with ya!! we gave it a whirl with a stock drum ... drove around easy fine ... hit it hard coming off an exit and coasted to the median strip :eek: sooooo then tried a Art Carr drum.. that did hold up but we didn't lock up the converter .. Now we have all the "good" stuff :biggrin:
 
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