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EGT temp.opinions please

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turbolou

Lou's Automotive 949-378-1590
Joined
Jun 23, 2001
Messages
5,137
What would exceptable EGT temps be? & what can be done about it? I would tend to assume that other than running a correct A/F ratio & timing not much. The higher the boost & H.P.
the more heat & the harder to control. Am I correct or once more out to lunch on this question? Need input!
 
IMO you seem to be right on. Luckily it seems that for short wot dragstrip blasts at least a pegged egt gauge doesnt seem to hurt anything really. Maybe a little tough on the exh valves, but what are you gonna do...

TurboTR
 
Whether they're right, wrong, or indeferent, I can tell you what I like to see (assuming you're talking about a blast down the quarter mile).
About the highest I've been comfortable letting mine go on pump gas (93 octane) was about 1450°, and I see that about the last 200-300 feet. This was running the afformentioned fuel, 20# of boost, and moderately conservative timing in the 18° range through 3rd gear.

In "my" race trim (114 unocal, 25# of boost, and 28° of timing) the EGT's will be pushing 1625 or so out the back door. The only time I've hurt anything on the track is when I wasn't paying close enough attention to the timing, and made a pass at 31° and 27# of boost. :mad: and that really only mildly damaged the head gasket enough to push some combustion into the coolant passage. Not knowing if it caused any damage or not, I pulled the timing and boost back on the next run and made the quickest, and fastest pass the car has ever done. EGT's on that first run were just over 1650. Just over 1610 on the quicker pass, but saw the damage in the pits (air/foam in the coolant tank).

Don't know if that's what you're looking for.
 
Originally posted by TurboDave
Whether they're right, wrong, or indeferent, I can tell you what I like to see (assuming you're talking about a blast down the quarter mile).
About the highest I've been comfortable letting mine go on pump gas (93 octane) was about 1450°, and I see that about the last 200-300 feet. This was running the afformentioned fuel, 20# of boost, and moderately conservative timing in the 18° range through 3rd gear.

In "my" race trim (114 unocal, 25# of boost, and 28° of timing) the EGT's will be pushing 1625 or so out the back door. The only time I've hurt anything on the track is when I wasn't paying close enough attention to the timing, and made a pass at 31° and 27# of boost. :mad: and that really only mildly damaged the head gasket enough to push some combustion into the coolant passage. Not knowing if it caused any damage or not, I pulled the timing and boost back on the next run and made the quickest, and fastest pass the car has ever done. EGT's on that first run were just over 1650. Just over 1610 on the quicker pass, but saw the damage in the pits (air/foam in the coolant tank).

Don't know if that's what you're looking for.
I run my EGT's in FUR much higher than that. My car typically runs about 1750-1775 on the SMC digital meter, Max I have ever seen was 1785 once. I had over 100 runs on the motor when I tore it down this winter. Exhaust valves and seats were fine but were naturally replaced to be on the safe side. I run stainless valves so replacing them is cheap enough and cheap insurance.
 
I know it probably isn't going to make enough difference to notice, but is the probe placement pretty close between your different set ups?

Nah, never mind....


:cool:
 
Originally posted by Phatman
I know it probably isn't going to make enough difference to notice, but is the probe placement pretty close between your different set ups?

Nah, never mind....


:cool:
Mine is a few inches before the turbine inlet (before the turbo). It's directly after where the cross over from the left bank blends in with the right header.

As long ass it’s after where the exhaust from the 2 headers blend together and before the turbo I don’t think the placement really matters.

Something I don’t know but can ASSume about is if it matters with a twin vs. single turbo. I’d ASSume the EGT’s on a twin are similar to what it would be on a single.
 
Originally posted by TurboDiverArt
As long ass it’s after where the exhaust from the 2 headers blend together and before the turbo I don’t think the placement really matters.


That's what I was thinking as I was coming to the end of my brain fart.....


:cool:
 
Dammmn Art, isn't that ~1900 at the port? My probe is in the same location as yours. The car likes as close to 1600* as possible...However, every car is different. Scott
 
The kind of probe also matters. If it is one with a fairly thick protective sleeve then it will respond much more slowly compared to a naked sensor, as much as 200-300 degrees different at the end of the 1/4 mile. My understanding is that the probes Steve Chlupsa sells are faster responding than the ones that Westach, for example, sell.
 
Lou, I recently changed my probe and my readings went from 1620 to 1730. The first time down the track with the new probe I shut down the engine for fear of doing damage. After inspection of the Autolite's I saw no metal on the insulator and they looked to be slightly rich. So now the number is repeating run after run and the car runs great. I also had a chance to speak with Kenny in Vegas and he said so what are you going to believe; a $75 probe or the Speed Pro info and the spark plug readings.
Jeff
 
Thanks all, I thought this would be an interesting exchange of info. My experience has been that the more power you make the more heat is created.On my TT V/6 that I ran ss/dx in I seen temps @ over 1900 @ 30# boost at that time that was considerd
pushing the envelope. Now I'm hearing of 45# plus. What I was
haveing trouble with was valve seat resession right between both valves, beryllium copper seats were later tried & helped although not completely solving the problem. I also tried different cam profiles to no avail. I keep hearing opinions of no more than 1600 degrees. That may apply to an NA motor but on a high output turbo application this is a problem. I was hopeing one of the more clever tuners out there had an idea!
 
Originally posted by STP
Dammmn Art, isn't that ~1900 at the port? My probe is in the same location as yours. The car likes as close to 1600* as possible...However, every car is different. Scott
I'm not sure of the EGT's at the exhaust port. My headers are jet hot coated so they probably keep heat in them more and my headers don't have any sharp turns and are 1 7/8" tubes so should hold heat better than say the ATR headers.
 
Originally posted by ijames
The kind of probe also matters. If it is one with a fairly thick protective sleeve then it will respond much more slowly compared to a naked sensor, as much as 200-300 degrees different at the end of the 1/4 mile. My understanding is that the probes Steve Chlupsa sells are faster responding than the ones that Westach, for example, sell.
My EGT is from Steve Chlupsa. I believe it's an Omega K Probe with a welded bung.
 
Originally posted by turbolou
Thanks all, I thought this would be an interesting exchange of info. My experience has been that the more power you make the more heat is created.On my TT V/6 that I ran ss/dx in I seen temps @ over 1900 @ 30# boost at that time that was considerd
pushing the envelope. Now I'm hearing of 45# plus. What I was
haveing trouble with was valve seat resession right between both valves, beryllium copper seats were later tried & helped although not completely solving the problem. I also tried different cam profiles to no avail. I keep hearing opinions of no more than 1600 degrees. That may apply to an NA motor but on a high output turbo application this is a problem. I was hopeing one of the more clever tuners out there had an idea!
I think the 1600-degree rule is with a stock displacement motor. I assume people are thinking that with 8 bolt heads and a significantly weaker motor than a stage motor somewhere in the 1600's is the max. With a stage motor where you are burning way more fuel and generally pumping in more air you are going to get higher EGT's. Initially I was concerned when I was tuning in the stage car cause at low boost, 10-15 psi I was getting EGT's above 1600 and the tune was rich, plugs showed this. In talking to lots of other stage people they confirmed that they are running higher EGT's. I think there isn't really a rule that can be followed with a stage motor. It's only an indication to when something is going wrong with a known good tune. If you usually run at 1750 consistently and then you run in the 1800's something is probably going on that needs attention. Same in the opposite direction, you're either running rich or maybe have a leaking hear gasket. Last year when I popped a head gasket my EGT’s dropped into the 1500’s but like a dummy I didn’t follow my own advice because I wasn’t seeing water in the oil. I kept racing the car and eventually the little leak became bigger and eventually congealed and clogged in my oil filter and I lost oil pressure. Luckily it happened in the staging lanes where I noticed it immediately and not when racing otherwise I probably would have broken something.
 
When I had a v-6, the best performance would seem to be in the 1680* range. With the SBC twin 66's at 11.7 a/f (wide band), 16 psi, 28* timing, it runs at 1725*-1735* with stainless coated headers. BTW, the shiny coating won't hold up to this kind of temperatures. HTH:)
 
on the dyno my car made its most horsepower with a reading of 1625. and higher than that and the horsepower dropped off, any lower and it dropped also, Sometime on a turbo car i dont believe leaner will make more power, But thats justs how my car runs, and that is with a dyno air fuel ratio of 11.8 to 1, but my fast reads 11.0 to 1
Otto
 
I was under the impression that a higher timing would net higher EGTs, and vice versa. It looks like a lot of the folks that run in race trim are upping the timing as much as 10 degrees and the EGTs are going up 100+ degrees.

Maybe they are leaning out the fuel?

This is the whole reason that I am going WBO2 instead of my EGT. It was fun, but I do not want to break this engine trying to see if my EGT is reading low.

I now sell the WBO2 kits for you folks that want one!! Click Here!
 
Originally posted by Taffy
I was under the impression that a higher timing would net higher EGTs, and vice versa. It looks like a lot of the folks that run in race trim are upping the timing as much as 10 degrees and the EGTs are going up 100+ degrees.

Maybe they are leaning out the fuel?

This is the whole reason that I am going WBO2 instead of my EGT. It was fun, but I do not want to break this engine trying to see if my EGT is reading low.

I now sell the WBO2 kits for you folks that want one!! Click Here!
Kind of just goes to show that it's the total combination. If you don't have a wide band sensor to tune with then the EGT is the next best thing. I typically ignore my EGT readings, they are what they are. If the FAST isn't sucking out fuel and the plugs which are pulled after each day of racing don't show problems then I know things are running well. If I notice an increase or decrease in the EGT's then I know something might be up. I'll pull plugs first as they are what's going to tell you what's really going on in the combustion chamber. An EGT gauge is just a tool, not the Holy Grail.
 
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