Engine Build Advise.... Again

[mtocrs1]

Hey Guys-Just bought a 87 GN with Main or Rod Knock. The engine was built in the late 90s it has been balanced and blueprinted, kenne bell cam, TA 49 turbo, ported irons, Art Carr 9" 3000 stall non lockup converter and 3.90 rear gears. That's all I currently know.
I purchased a 5500mi rebuilt long block off a board member. Factory build with the exception of main, head studs and ARP rod bolts.
The plan is to swap over the ported irons, possibly cam and lifters and perform the earl brown oil pump mods.
Here are my questions.
1. For some reason they put the shorter main studs on the middle two caps on the left side... I plan to swap them to the rear caps where I feel they should be. Could me moving these cause any potential issues? I don't think so as the block registers should be aligning the caps not the studs.
2. Would you guys swap over the cam is it looks good and I take apart the lifters and clean them?
3. Another option would be to leave the stock cam and install some 1.65 roller rockers or purchase another cam?
4. Would the stock cam with 1.65 rockers be enough to utilize the ported irons.
Keep in mind that the car is equipped with an Art Carr 9" 3000 stall non lockup converter and 3.90 rear gears.
Goals are to have a fun street car that runs 10.99 or has 600HP witch ever comes first. On E85.

 

[earlbrown]

I would take the old engine apart and inspect the hell out of whatever parts you're considering moving over first.

It's be a shame if you tear about a running engine then find your donor cam is going flat. If it's a flat tappet in the old engine, I'd leave it right where it is. Moving cams around is just asking for dead engine/turbo/oil cooler...

Plus, heads that flow more need less cam.

It's already August, I'd put the engine in and drive the car.

 

[mtocrs1]

Yeah I hear you on the time thing. I at least have to swap over the ported heads.
Any opinions on moving the main studs.


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[earlbrown]

If you pull the studs without removing the caps, you might not be able to get them to start. If that engine has 5500 miles on it, I'd leave them.

 

[SHADOWII]

I agree w/Earl, take advantage of the time you have to drive it and then over winter you can do the desired modding. Changing the heads and going w/the 1.65's won't hurt anything and save the money for the rebuild. I would consider going back to the 3.42 gears. The combo of 3.90's and E-85 is a little hard on the wallet.

 

[mtocrs1]

Do you think the 1.65 rockers are with the cost? Will they offer much of an advantage with the ported heads?


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[rag231]

3.90 gears? Maybe if I want to impress someone with burnouts. I stepped down from a 3.73 to 3.42 and now the car moves in a forward motion. You will have a fun street car but i dont know if the TA49 will give you 600hp. The Kenne Bell cam was nice back in the day. I second the motion on leaving the cam where it is, stick the ported irons on there and roll with whatever rockers are on those heads. I still have factory rockers on my ported cast irons with a little help from some RJC braces. My motor was built in the mid 90's and I dont even know what roller rocker option there was at that time.

 

[Buick Mark]

X4 on going back to 3.42 gears. Turbos work better when the engine is under a load, and 3.42's will load the engine better than 3.90's. That's why its near impossible to build boost in neutral

 

[Mr.Spool]

I ran a stock cam/shortblock with 1.65 rocker on mild port heads on a 49 into the 10's and I ran 4.10 gears.i would just drop that motor in and have some fun,porting the heads will drop the boost number to make power,but if you don't mind the higher number on the stock heads it should go just as fast.

 

[chris kirk]

X5 on the gears. I had 3.73's in mine when I bought it and I hated driving it.