Engine oil compatibility with alky injection

[Alky V6]

Based off of his posts, I don't think "he" (himself) is concerned, only troubled about the average alky consumer "flooding" the motor @WOT and contributing to eccessive cylinder and ring wear, without intervension. . It's only a matter of time before "someone" finds out first hand!

scott wile

Your right Scott. He's just showing some concern for the other guy. And might I add, getting some wierd reaction from a few.

I've heard of alcohol racers draining their oil and heating it on the barbecue over night in the pits to boil off the water and fuel and then reusing it. I could understand the boiling off part, but I always wondered in the back of my head, all that excess fuel and water had to deplete the oil additive package in some way. And if it did, how important were these additives that had been used up? How would the depleted oil affect engine durability? How long can you keep boiling away the fuel and water?

 

[unboostedV6]

While I haven't read all the details of this thread, I use Royal Purple 5w-30. My understanding is that a poor(very rich) tune on methanol will cause oil "milking" and I have experienced this when excess fuel pressure once over loaded my needles & seats (remember those?). I just fixed the problem, warmed the car up, and the oil cleared. It is also my understanding that oils recommended for alky are more "basic" to neutralize acids formed by alky/water contamination. That said, I currently use an electric vacuum pump and a 180* t'stat to keep the crud boiled off - change my oil at the end of each season. GB

 

[Alky V6]

While I haven't read all the details of this thread, I use Royal Purple 5w-30. My understanding is that a poor(very rich) tune on methanol will cause oil "milking" and I have experienced this when excess fuel pressure once over loaded my needles & seats (remember those?). I just fixed the problem, warmed the car up, and the oil cleared. It is also my understanding that oils recommended for alky are more "basic" to neutralize acids formed by alky/water contamination. That said, I currently use an electric vacuum pump and a 180* t'stat to keep the crud boiled off - change my oil at the end of each season. GB

Interesting sig. Post some pics if you haven't already. Are you using any top lube with your machine?

 

[unboostedV6]

I'm a firm believer in top lube ... any brand is fine. I think it's all just castor oil. 2 oz./5 gal plus scent of the month. Lady at the timeslip booth says my car smells best even if it doesn't sound right. Many bracket guys say all it (the top lube) does is turn their collectors black. I say it can't hurt and may help valve guides, fuel pumps, regulator, needles,etc. I'll try to post some engine pics later... as an aside, Don, I wanted to get some input from you concerning the TH200...meet me in the transmission forum GB

 

[HeatleyRacing]

I have always looked at OIL as a very "temporary" neccessity. By this I mean, the more often you make that oil change the better. Oil is by its very design a temporary cushion for your engine. It breaks down with heat and is less effective over time . Then toss contaminants into the mix.. WOO HOO..
We invest thousands of dollars into our cars we need to look at a $20 oil change as a regular occurance.. Ive owned my GN for a month now, its hot down here in TN this time of year, Ive been to the track for several passes with the car, Ive bolted on lots of upgrades and the cars been taking a beating. The oil was changed the day I brought it home and its been changed twice since. Excessive ? I dont think so considering I want to see what is and isnt coming out of my engine since its new to me. Suppose you were to change your oil every month at $20 a whack.. Thats only $240 a year. Not very hard to justify considering you wont be able to even begin a rebuild for that.

 

[TT/Ameasap]

I have always looked at OIL as a very "temporary" neccessity. By this I mean, the more often you make that oil change the better. Oil is by its very design a temporary cushion for your engine. It breaks down with heat and is less effective over time . Then toss contaminants into the mix.. WOO HOO..
We invest thousands of dollars into our cars we need to look at a $20 oil change as a regular occurance.. Ive owned my GN for a month now, its hot down here in TN this time of year, Ive been to the track for several passes with the car, Ive bolted on lots of upgrades and the cars been taking a beating. The oil was changed the day I brought it home and its been changed twice since. Excessive ? I dont think so considering I want to see what is and isnt coming out of my engine since its new to me. Suppose you were to change your oil every month at $20 a whack.. Thats only $240 a year. Not very hard to justify considering you wont be able to even begin a rebuild for that.

This is what I was thinking also. I change my oil too often to some, but in my eyes, I am getting that motor the most fresh oil every run and looking at the total cost to maintain it is a no brainer.

 

[Razor]

My rule of thumb was pull dipstick.. oil looks dirty.. replace it. Its not done my mileage.. as too many variables are at play.

Yes a 20 dollar oil change goes a long way.

 

[Roger]

The military used alky on aircraft almost constantly & had more trouble with bits of metal in the oil (wear), than trouble from alky use.

As little as I use alky on my daily driver, I'm not a bit worried about any ill effects caused by alky use.