Engine Rebuild Not Starting

Q

qbano65

Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2002
I recently had my engine overhauled along with the addition of a couple other things. Well we finally got everything back together primed her up and tried to start her repeatedly. The engine cranks, but the damn thing won't turn over. I know there are a number of things that could be keepin it from turning over but I was wondering if there were any ideas out there. My next move is gonna be to put the wheels back on and have the GN towed to a shop to let them figure it out, but I figured I'd ask around first.

Thanks in advance

Carlos
 
If you have fuel pressure and spark I would check the crank sensor. I had a no start problem with fuel and spark and it turn out to be the crank sensor.

The cam sensor cup can rotate if the pin is broken and it might not start then either.
 
Make sure the interuptor ring on the harmonic balancer is going through the correct side of the crank sensor. There is 2 slots, and only 1 works. I bought a car that wasn't running, and it took me 2 weeks to figure that one out.

Good luck
 
is the orange wire by the battery for the ecm connected together? It will never start if that wire is unpluged.
 
An engine needs, compression, fuel, and spark.

If you have compression, then see if have spark, and fuel.

With spark it must happen at the right time, so if you have spark, you also then have to make sure it's happening at the right time.

And fouled plugs will keep an engine from starting. So if you have a no-spark problem, then even when you cure that, fouled plugs can still keep it from starting.

Be logical, and you'll figure it out.

PS, a simple Noid light for seeing if the injectors are firing, and *gap tool* for seeing if a decent spark is present, are must haves. Using a screwdriver and seeing a 1/16" spark ain't gonna work, you need one of the clip on thingies where you can safely see if you have 1/2" or so of spark.
HTH
 
Hey guys thanks for the replies,

As far as I know the cam sensor is connected correctly. The orange wire near the battery is hooked up. Weve tried starting it up with the interruptor ring lined up through both slots (and broke a sensor in the process:rolleyes: ). We took the coil pack to auto zone to have it tested and two of the six were not. We replaced the coil pack and still no turnover. The spark plugs are new. I'm all out of ideas any more ideas you guys might have would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Carlos
 
Just a thought, we ripped out the stock Chapman security system that was in the car. Could that have anything to do with the fact that its not turning over??


Thanks

Carlos
 
I've got the same thing going on. I have good spark, verified by a Snap On version of the ST125; noid light verified injectors are being driven; cam sensor has been adjusted a million times; fuel pressure good; but no cigar. It really wants to light off, but I get the feeling that it's just not getting enough fuel caused by faulty crank sensor not syncing via ECM after it hits 400 RPM.

Ripping out the stock security system? Yeah, that could have done something to cause a no start if it interfaces with the ECM.
 
Originally posted by Drivenmenuts
It really wants to light off, but I get the feeling that it's just not getting enough fuel caused by faulty crank sensor not syncing via ECM after it hits 400 RPM.
Click to expand...

If you have spark, the sensor's working.
that said:

I had a Well Module that wouldn't work in non-EST mode, that was really hard to start, since without the non-EST mode, the starter then has to spin the engine at over 400 RPM. Takes a really good battery, starter and wiring to get an engine to spin over 400 RPM, IMO.

For grins try a known good module. Hit a junkyard (none politically correct term), and get one from a 87 FWD, Vin C.
 
I've tried two different OEM ignition module/coilpack assys with the same result. Spark is there, and I think fuel is there because of noid light pulse and the chugging when cranking engine (plugs smell gassy, but not wet). That said, the ignition module is doing it's job according to everything that I've read. The ignition module controls spark and a batch fuel dump occurs until 400 RPM, where the ECM then sync's the cam sensor and crank sensor to switch over to sequential injection, correct?

I've verified proper voltages on a service guide flow chart for the hot airs, although a crank sensor voltage that I measured this weekend did not vary very much, which is supposed to. It also has a minute amount of wear caused by rubbing against the interrupter.

There are no codes present.

I'm hoping it's the crank sensor. I'm probably going to order one tomorrow because I need to eliminate that as a possible problem.
 
Originally posted by qbano65
Just a thought, we ripped out the stock Chapman security system that was in the car. Could that have anything to do with the fact that its not turning over??


Thanks

Carlos
Click to expand...


I had a car with the chapman lock, where it would lock the hood shut. It also killed the ignition system. Have you checked for spark?? It it was the chapman that locked the hood close I would have left it in the car, it is a good security feature.
 
Originally posted by dyermullet
I had a car with the chapman lock, where it would lock the hood shut. It also killed the ignition system. Have you checked for spark?? It it was the chapman that locked the hood close I would have left it in the car, it is a good security feature.
Click to expand...

Yeah we pulled the chapman system out....and now no spark. What could we do to bypass whatevver we just set off?
 
Let's start with the basics. Does a scan tool show the ECM that the engine is turning? (i.e. do RPMs register on the scan tool?)

Does the motor ever fire and then die or does it never ignite?

When you "pulled the Chapman system out" did you plice back together the "kill" wires?
 
Does the "check engine" light come on when the key is in the ON position? If not then the ECM may be dead or no power.

I just went throught this the other day, power feed to the ECM was cracked inside the insulation.
 
Hey guys,

Sorry about the delay but my computer has been down for a while now. We did rip the chapman out, and NO we did not splice the kill wire in. I think (and hope) that may be the problem. however that in itself presents a problem in the fact that I have no idea which wire i need to splice and where it needs to go. So, that bein said, who can help me out?? :D

Thanks,

Carlos
 
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