Finally finished my boost bypass system. Works awesome!

[VadersV6]

Im just asking how you can read my thread on how I set up a bypass system on my TR, and now its your idea. I mentioned on here, doing this to my GN a year and a half ago.
Anyway, I used a greddy BOV as a bypass before. It didnt work right. I had to tear it apart and change the spring so I could get it into a range where I could adjust it. Out of the box, they are too stiff and will only open under a huge pressure spike. Also, you need to know that different bypass valves will have a different stroke, and therefore, diferent flow capacities. The 108's to 110's and I think 112's, have a brass plated diaphragm (vs plastic) which is alot stronger, but the stroke is much less, like 3 or 4mm. This makes them very responsive in a road racing application where you're quickly on and off the throttle, but lacking in the air volume dept. The 103 opens like 10mm, so its enough to completely bypass air around the turbo during cruise, and enough to dump a huge volume of air. But, they arent rated for big boost. Ive planned on setting up a dual 103 system so the psi wont damage the diaphragm.
Something I didnt expect was that the engine is alot quieter on the freeway. Its extremely smooth. Probably has something to do with bypassing the turbo. It spools really well and the vacuum to boost transition is alot smoother.
By the way, by the looks of it, my mileage looks to have improved.
Also, DSM's didnt come from the factory with BOV's. I dont know of any factory car that did. It came with a bypass valve. You say you have a BOV from the factory, but you cant vent to the atmosphere or itll run like ****.
You're contradicting yourself. A BOV DOES vent to the atmosphere. Your car came with a bypass valve. Venting to the atmosphere dumps metered air into the atmosphere and causes a huge rich spike, which is why it doesnt run right. I bypass valve only circulates metered air, so there is never a problem with A/F fluctuations.
Maybe you misunderstood something. Maybe you think I made a BOV on my car. I made a BYPASS valve, which is routed back into the intake, after the MAF.

 

[Dennis F]

OK, First, I have no idea what you did to your car. I said I never heard of a bypass valve in the terms your using it as. I came up with my own idea on how to recirculate it back into the intake after the maf pre turbo with out disrupting airflow. This will indeed work just as I want it to.

2nd, DSM do come with blow off valves and are RECIRCULATED after the MAF (from the factory) so there are no wierd readings after letting off the throttle. I know this for a fact, as I have had 2 DSM now over 6 years and I do know the terminology and how they are plumbed into the system. I also have a little more knowledge after tuning the dam things for 5 years with a stand alone EMS system.

There are plenty of guys who run them vented and recirculated. I have mine vented in the DSM because I put the mas after the BOV. I am wondering if you know the difference.

Here is a pic of my BOV vented, Stock 1g BOV

Here is a pic I got from another car on ebay with the black recirculating tube in the same area as mine. You can not see his BOV because it is black. But a greddy is basically a direct replacement with the flange adaptor.

 

[Dennis F]

And to add to this a little bit, your troubles with the Greddy were probably because you did not apply pressure to the lower port. That is known as a quick release port.

Vacuum/boost go to the top port and just boost for the lower port. If you don't have boost going to the lower port you will get surge issue's even if you loosen the screw all the way.

As for how long ago you had your idea, good for you. I was not a member that long ago and I came up with my own idea without seeing any pictures of what you did to your car but I am using a BOV, not what you are so it is irrelevent to your idea IMHO.

 

[turbosam6]

Why would you insult Norbs, who knows a hell of alot more about this stuff than you? Thats a good way to find yourself without help on something technical when you need it.

I never said it was a bad idea, I just said don't expect anything from it because its not really going to do much for you. If you like tinkering and addind parts to your car (I like less parts, less chance of failure), good for you, keep doing it and playing. I just wouldn't be so quick to throw out insults when more experienced members try to educate you. And definitely don't insult how fast or slow someones car may be, because I assure you your car doesn't hold a candle to mine or Norbs.

 

[VadersV6]

Why would you insult Norbs, who knows a hell of alot more about this stuff than you?

I dont walk up and insult people unless they've done it to me. Also dont assume what I know and dont know. Im not exactly new to this either. How fast this particular car is, has nothing to do with how fast I want it to be or how fast my cars in the past were or how fast i can make a car. This is my 75 mile a day, daily driver, and my goals arent to run 10's. If I wanted it to run 10's, believe me, I could do it.
Dennis- If you have no idea what I did to my car, then you havent read any of this thread. Especially the first post. You keep saying you have a blow off valve that vents into the intake tube after the MAF, pre-turbo. Thats a BYPASS valve, not a blowoff valve. A blowoff valve vents into the open atmosphere. If youve been seeing people refer to it as a blowoff valve for the past 6 years on the internet, youve been hearing it wrong. The import crowd has been mis-using this term incorrectly for a long time. Its called a bypass, when its a closed system which routes the pulse back into the intake tube, after the MAF, pre-turbo.
You write this: "I am wondering if you know the difference" Once again, it looks as if you havent read anything. Ive repeatedly tried to tell people, especially you, what the difference is, yet you skip past all the words I write and try and educate me by re-hashing everything I said in the first post. As for the different ports in the Greddy valve...yes, I know what they are there for. I dont just bolt **** onto my car and hope it works. You say you came up with an idea of how to hook up the valve, post MAf, pre-turbo in a way that doesnt disrupt airflow. Not to burst your bubble, but you didnt come up with this. Engineers came up with this 30 years ago. People have been doing this to their turbo cars for a LONG time. If you would have read my first post, you would see I did this to my cobra, with 2 bypass valve, one before the IC and one after. I got the idea from a million other people who were doing it to their blown and turbo cars. The idea of the blowoff valve is relatively new to the turbo world. Before that, EVERY system was a bypass system, because thats what it does. It BYPASSES the air around the turbo and into the TB, and then when you shut the throttle after boost, it bypasses the pulse back into the intake tube, after the MAF, which is the way you want it, because you dont want to blow off metered air.
This reminds of of Al Gore saying he invented the internet.
People dont have the patience to actually read what it is they're debating first. read half the words, decide that they are saying something completely different from what they actually said, and then attack. READ what I wrote first!
ANOTHER thing. That pic of your engine....you say here is a pic of my BOV, vented. Thats a little redundant, given that BOV's VENT. Thats what they do. BUT, you see that little lip on your dump barb? Why is that there? BECAUSE ITS A BYPASS VALVE! Youre supposed to have a hose on there, routing it back to the intake tube! That lip is there for that purpose.

 

[TurboTnZ06]

Cool, a bypass! Never seen one on a TR before, though I have seen BOV's. I've been thinking of adding a BOV since it can't hurt, only help.

Btw- You're getting it easy. I tried posting here about traction control options once You would have thought I suggested everyone should replace their oil with maragrita mix and stoli

 

[VadersV6]

Another thing Dennis- you keep saying you came up with a way to do it after the MAF, but your pic shows PRE-MAF????

 

[S10xGN]

There always seems to be a hostile response to everything new here. Its really ****ing bizarre.

Vader, you've got a novel idea going here - I'd love to see pix and hear more, but so far the only hostility has been shown by you. You need to chill out, nobody is trashing your idea! Some real sharp peeps have replied so far, (i.e. Norbs and Ijames) these guys can help you if you let them...

 

[Dennis F]

Ok, now I am getting aggravated. You think your smarter than the engineers because you came up with the idea of a bypass valve? Mitsu part number call it a ****ING BLOW OFF VALVE. not a bypass.

That is not what I am talking about on my TR. I am going to install a blow off valve, the same very one on my Talon as a matter of fact.

So according to you, I haven't read the thread, but I have and I asked a simple question. Then, having nothing to do with you or your ingenious idea, which you said was around for 30 years, came up with my own idea, if someone else has done it, great! But I have my own idea that I did not get from anyone else on how to properly install a valve in my car and make it work nice,

If you could not get a greddy to work right, you ****ed it up, plain and simple. It's only purpose is to relieve pressure in the intake pipe (which I am sure you know) and release it to atmosphere or recirculate it.

A BOV will stay closed while driving unless there is enough vacuum to open it so it can not bypass **** while cruising. Your stating a bypass valve will stay open while driving and clamping shut while under boost. Where does it relieve pressure too?

With my stock cams I would pull 18" of vacuum and it would open the valve just a little bit, now with the much larger cams I have the valve stays closed almost all the time and only opens after boost and there is pressure in the upper pipe.

So what the **** does a bypass valve do different??? It allows air in after the turbo? Big whoop. It is the same ****ing thing I posted in the first response asking if they are the same thing. Sounds to me like they are doing the same thing with a different name being used.

As far as my maf goes, I am using a GM maf and have the blow off valve in front of it. At the time I did not have the means to use a recirculating tube and with a maf translator I can meter a lot more airflow. Stock maf goes fuzzy around 44 pds per/min and I am flowing more than that. That is the exact reason I showed you my car and the other more stock appearing blow off valve setup. Geeez man.

Finally, lets see some pictures of your setup and I will finish mine up or at least get the mock up done this weekend. But in all honesty, it is the same setup as a stock DSM and it will work marvously.

I never said I came up with the idea of it, I figured out a way on my own without asking a million questions about it. Sorry to piss on your wheate's but I think I know what i am doing.

Not for nothing but your the one getting pissy here, I was fine just asking questions and seeing your results. If you don't want anyone capying your work, don't mention it on a public forum.

 

[VadersV6]

never mind

 

[VadersV6]

Arguing about this is stupid. I concede. Apologies all around.

 

[norbs]

I agree chill out, all i said it may not help gas mileage. I did not say its a bad idea, please re-read the orginal responses over. Good luck with it.

 

[VadersV6]

Dennis- you misquoted about 100 things I said again, but like I said, Im done. Enjoy your blowoff valve and Ill enjoy my bypass valve...overrun cutoff valve, sneeze valve, blowjob valve whatever.

 

[alvin87gn]

actually i think that dsm has a blow off valve that doesnt dump 100% to atmosphere like a lot of aftermarket ones. factory turbo subaru's have a true bypass valve, they dont vent any air to atmosphere at all. and a 100% blow off valve might not be the best on a street car, it does cause a momentary rich condition. the best compromise to this argument would be to run an adustable blow off valve that you can set what % to dump to atm and what to recirculate. that way using ds or something you can tailor the dump to prevent the car from going to rich and maybe washing the cylinder walls. ever wonder why those really fancy turbo race cars shoot a lil fire out the exhaust every time they shift under boost? rich.

 

[blown okie]

Dennis- you misquoted about 100 things I said again, but like I said, Im done. Enjoy your blowoff valve and Ill enjoy my bypass valve...overrun cutoff valve, sneeze valve, blowjob valve whatever

sign me up for a blowjob valve,...hell make it two. :biggrin:

 

[BASS]

Ive heard that BOVs are bad because it will add fuel to the oil somehow (i.e. a/f ratio gets screwy after it releases the air to the atmosphere) and will weaken the integrity of the oil (thus, should have to change the oil much more often to prevent premature wear of the motor)??? You guys with BOVs (Not By-pass valves) should take a whiff of your motor oil next time before you change it and tell me if you smell any gas.....This BOV talk will go on forever, as it did in the past here on this board....

 

[GDNF2ET]

I'd like some pics also... Thanx in advance...I have a DSM also and have been told the 1g relief valve is unreliable pass 18psi, crushed or not.....Its better to just get proven aftermarket valve....

 

[CHANCE]

ill take one also :biggrin:

 

[Dennis F]

I'd like some pics also... Thanx in advance...I have a DSM also and have been told the 1g relief valve is unreliable pass 18psi, crushed or not.....Its better to just get proven aftermarket valve....

Do a search for the Gus modded bov. They can hold a lot more than 18.

 

[GDNF2ET]

You mean this ? http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_bov_mod.html ...I don't know any locals DSMers that have done that mod....Have you seen it work ?