First shake down drive after 18 years of sitting

[Joeld]

Well, I went through the entire spring cleaning list, I replaced the powermaster.

First, I need the passenger's side black metal trim piece under the t-top, the outside end is rotted. I pulled it off and underneath has some surface rust, but nothing terribly bad. Does any one know where I can find the black metal trim piece. I guess with some effort I could likely make one, but would take me forever.

Second, after a couple of hard acceleration blasts the check engine light came on. I shut down, restarted, no light, couple of runs and light back on. I don't have a code reader for the older cars, is there any trick to figuring out the code without a reader? Turn key on, right blinker, jump on left foot while drinking a glass of water?

Third, my brakes are just not strong, pedal does not go to floor, nor is it rock hard, just takes a lot of force to stop and I can't lock brakes and I can't hold any boost at all.

I have not yet bled rear brakes, so I will bleed everything from scratch and see if that does the trick.

Finally, the guys at the parts counter gave me the wrong serpentine belt and the tensionner pulley is rubbing against the AC bolt. They gave me a drive rite 5060640DR 6PK1625 belt.

Oh and a bumper filler snapped when cleaning, I need to find these also now. (all you old timers are snickering I'm sure as my list is likely very familiar).

Good news, no leaks (other than very slow rear main) and my AC held vacuum after replacing o-rings, orifice valve and accumulator.

Thanks guys,
Joel

 

[Joeld]

Just googled and found how to read code, I'll do it now. Ooops, does not look like the odb1 in the video, still not sure how to check code. My connector looks a bit different, no oval connections on either side.
Joel

 

[williamsGN]

http://www.gnttype.org/maint/malf.html

 

[Bescurred]

Code was probably a 13 if I were to guess which is the O2 sensor. After 18 years probably gonna need to replace it too.

Far as your brakes go is the brake light on at all when you press the pedal down? Make sure the bulb is good in the dash. I wouldn't be hot doggin' it if the brakes aren't 100%. Bleed the brakes and recheck everything on the Powermaster.

Lots of vendors sell remakes of the bumper fillers those are easy to get.

 

[Joeld]

HI Bescurred, I replaced the powermaster as the accumulator ball was junk, it was original. Yes, I need to do a proper bleeding of the brakes. Any recommendations on the bumper fillers?

Thanks William, my connector looks different, I'll post a picture maybe I'm missing something obvious.

No brake lights.

Joel

 

[Joeld]

I think mine is upside down from the link you sent William, won't start paperclipping it until someone here confirms, with my luck the last two days I'll short something out.
Joel

 

[williamsGN]

Its upside down, bottom side left connectors.. the two metal connectors by themselves.

 

[Joeld]

Its upside down, bottom side left connectors.. the two metal connectors by themselves.

Thanks William, again, you've provided a bunch of help so far, appreciated.
Joel

 

[Buick Mark]

Crank up the boost

 

[Joeld]

Buick mark i refuse to be preasured into modifying my car just to be one of the "guys". I am more than happy to enjoy my car just as it was intended. I am not like the others here who are so easily preasured into wanting to fit in.

But, what if say my wife wanted the car to go faster. What chip would you put in and how much boost can be safely applied with everything remaining stock? As you know, you cant say no to the boss.

Joel

 

[Joeld]

I am getting code 31.
Joel

 

[robzombie]

New

Buick mark i refuse to be preasured into modifying my car just to be one of the "guys". I am more than happy to enjoy my car just as it was intended. I am not like the others here who are so easily preasured into wanting to fit in.

But, what if say my wife wanted the car to go faster. What chip would you put in and how much boost can be safely applied with everything remaining stock? As you know, you cant say no to the boss.
​

If she wears the pants I hope you look good in a skirt LOL.​

 

[Bescurred]

Turbo Tweaked chip from Eric Marshal if your wife wants a chip lol!!

I think the user name spoolfool sells the bumper fillers.

 

[Bescurred]

FROM GNTTYPE dot org

CODE 31
Trouble Code 31 indicates that the Wastegate Solenoid may not be functioning correctly. The wastegate solenoid is controlled by a Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) signal from the ECM. The ECM controls turbo boost by varying the PWM waveform (duty cycle) to the wastegate. The wastegate responds by bleeding off exhaust pressure upstream of the turbine, thus controlling boost pressure.
The conditions for setting this code are:

• the ECM is commanding a solenoid duty cycle of between 5% and 94%, and
• no electrical feedback is being received from the solenoid, and
• the above conditions are met for 2 seconds.

Typical causes for this code include:
1) Poor or corroded connections between the ECM and the wastegate solenoid
2) Open or shorted solenoid
3) Defective, sticking or maladjusted wastegate linkage
4) Defective ECM
Ensure correct operation of other engine subsystems, including but not limited to the TPS and MAF sensors and check the wastegate actuation hardware.

 

[Joeld]

FROM GNTTYPE dot org

CODE 31
Trouble Code 31 indicates that the Wastegate Solenoid may not be functioning correctly. The wastegate solenoid is controlled by a Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) signal from the ECM. The ECM controls turbo boost by varying the PWM waveform (duty cycle) to the wastegate. The wastegate responds by bleeding off exhaust pressure upstream of the turbine, thus controlling boost pressure.
The conditions for setting this code are:

• the ECM is commanding a solenoid duty cycle of between 5% and 94%, and
• no electrical feedback is being received from the solenoid, and
• the above conditions are met for 2 seconds.

Typical causes for this code include:
1) Poor or corroded connections between the ECM and the wastegate solenoid
2) Open or shorted solenoid
3) Defective, sticking or maladjusted wastegate linkage
4) Defective ECM
Ensure correct operation of other engine subsystems, including but not limited to the TPS and MAF sensors and check the wastegate actuation hardware.

Thanks,
I will check the connection first.
I did replace the vacuum lines from the solenoid to the waste-gate and the turbo and with the help of this forum was sure to get the restrictor bit of the Y pointing the right way.
Is there a quick way to test for shorted solenoid? Continuity I guess?
I did pull the wastgate actuator off when replacing the vacuum hoses (which I did zip tie). Possible I guess that the wastegate actuator is not happy. I can test with my air compressor right? Low Air pressure, 15 PSI I'm guessing?
The wastegate it's self is easy to flip back and forth, I messed with it when the actuator was off.

Joel

 

[Royal-T-Ltd]

Regarding bumper fillers – IMHO – i would buy SpoolFools - his look top notch, quality is great and he's a board member/supporting vendor.

aaron

 

[Chuck Leeper]

"Second, after a couple of hard acceleration blasts the check engine light came on"
Wonder how long this will last w/ no data logging ability???

 

[SIXBANGR]

check your fuses. I don't remember which one it is, but it will set a code 31 when you get into boost.

 

[Joeld]

Will check them all in the am. I hope it is not an electrical gremlin, those are no fun.

Joel

 

[Joeld]

"Second, after a couple of hard acceleration blasts the check engine light came on"
Wonder how long this will last w/ no data logging ability???

Hi Chuck, I don't understand?
Joel