First shake down drive after 18 years of sitting

[blackgn1]

I'm going to go with Chuck on this one. What's the fuel pressure? Boost setting? Is there any knock? I'm suprised that no one but Chuck and I see a huge problem here. The next thread will be "I did a few hard acceleration blasts and my crank flew out"

 

[turbo nasty]

"Second, after a couple of hard acceleration blasts the check engine light came on"
Wonder how long this will last w/ no data logging ability???

X3

 

[Joeld]

I understand you to be saying that i dont have a scanmaster or the like which i don't

The car, other than powermaster- less is stock.

Is it common for a stock motor to grenade? I had not heard that yet but i am new to gn's.

So far all i know that is wrong is code 31.

Is this an idicator of something sinister?

The only audible noise from the motor is the belt tensioner because i was given the wrong belt which i will sort as i have the correct part number now. I understand there maybe knock i just cant hear it.

I did not realize that a scanmaster or the like are required regardless of modifications

Thanks
Joel

 

[Joeld]

I understand you to be saying that i dont have a scanmaster or the like which i don't

The car, other than powermaster- less is stock.

Is it common for a stock motor to grenade? I had not heard that yet but i am new to gn's.

So far all i know that is wrong is code 31.

Is this an idicator of something sinister?

The only audible noise from the motor is the belt tensioner because i was given the wrong belt which i will sort as i have the correct part number now. I understand there maybe knock i just cant hear it.

I did not realize that a scanmaster or the like are required regardless of modifications

Thanks
Joel

 

[blackgn1]

Joel knock is going to be a issue. What is your present boost number at WOT? You could get knock at lower boost numbers with crap gas. Don't push it without a Scanmaster at the least. You could be hammering the bearings and popping the headgasket at any given time.

 

[Joeld]

Hi black
I dont know boost at wot other than the digital gauge on the dash.

Is there a better way to tell without scanmaster? Is the stock sending unit or whatever reads the preasure for the dash leds typically accurate?

I guess a scanmaster is inevitable

Joel

 

[trixdout]

Hi black
I dont know boost at wot other than the digital gauge on the dash.

Is there a better way to tell without scanmaster? Is the stock sending unit or whatever reads the preasure for the dash leds typically accurate?

I guess a scanmaster is inevitable

Joel

The stock digital bar that is below the rpm bar is not accurate at all. The scanmaster will do one of two things when installed in the beauty. One it will monitor the knock so that you don't grenade the block and at unexpected moment, second the scanmaster will help you get the stocm tune correct (tps, iac, and various other parameters). Strictly stock car can still benefit from the scanmaster. It's not a ricer mod.

Sent from my iPhone using Turbo Buick

 

[MonstrNrgy]

Scanmaster, boost gauge and a modern chip will be required.

 

[Joeld]

Understood

 

[John Larkin]

Code 31 is the wastegate solenoid. It sits on the right valve cover right behind the turbo. Red connector, black 1" square sensor with usually a red dot on it. Maybe it's just unplugged.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Hi Chuck, I don't understand?
Joel

Sorry, I should have made additional comment....
It appears you have a car that obviously needs some TLC, after the long storage period.
Before you push it, it's about mandatory to install some data logging equipment, or at least a Scanmaster and aux gauges.[Once all fluids, filters, connectors, hoses, etc, are verified good, and changed for fresh]
Just one of the hard accel blasts you mentioned, can/will do serious damage, resulting in an engine failure. [Code 31 is one that can do such.]

Since wifey wears the pants, just think what will happen when U ask for $4K for an engine rebuild! U will never come out of the coma she put U in!

 

[Joeld]

I did replace the little filter but fairly certain it is plugged in i will double check

Is there a bench test i can perform

Joel

 

[Joeld]

Much tlc required for sure

I will lobby for scanmaster

The boss and miniboss are going to florida for 10 days in april that would be a good time to discuss. Funny how warm weather can influence such a discussion



Thanks guys
Joel

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

I did replace the little filter but fairly certain it is plugged in i will double check

Is there a bench test i can perform

Joel

It is the electrical connector that needs to be looked at. The ECM measures the voltage at it to see if: 1: the solenoid is plugged in, 2) that the solenoid has the proper resistance.

For a bench test, unplug the connector to the solenoid and measure the resistance of the solenoid. That is across the two solenoid pins. I don't have an OEM solenoid to check, but an educated SWAG puts it in the 20 to 60 ohm range.

If it is a dead short, or open (infinite resistance) then you know it is bad. Also check the connections for corrosion.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[Joeld]

I will check resistance and report back

Silly the amount of information on the board and how quickly you guys cough it up.

I plan to post a summary post on lessons learned for other newbies like me.

Joel

 

[trixdout]

I will check resistance and report back

Silly the amount of information on the board and how quickly you guys cough it up.

I plan to post a summary post on lessons learned for other newbies like me.

Joel

You are one of the lucky few to get some kind of information.

Sent from my iPhone using Turbo Buick

 

[Joeld]

RmvBfrFlght I got a reading of 29 tonight. Seems in line with your thoughts.
Anyone have suggestions on how to check wastegate linkage? Could it be the actuator itself?
Any recommended ways to check the actuator if is possibly the problem?
Thanks,
Joel

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

A reading of 29 ohms is in the ballpark. It may be that the connector, wiring, or the ECM is bad. The quad-drivers that operate the various relays & solenoids do go bad. Usually there is physical damage to them that makes it apparent. In this case will need to check the resistance of the other devices.

To test the actuator use an air compressor. A stock actuator, IIRC, opens at about 13 psi, a HD at about 18 psi.

Put the air to the port on the actuator that has the hose on it. It should open the waste gate by pulling the rod toward the actuator.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[Joeld]

I will try to test the actuator tonight thank you

When the selenoid goes bad does it result in too much or too little boost?

Joel