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First time out with new setup

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kolb02

Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2014
Messages
92
Ran 11.14@126 with new setup. Only could build 4psi at launch and then the car would start to push. What are you guys doing to build more boost at the line? I only got one run as they told me no more. My setup is stock bottom end ported irons and roller cam with a TA64 turbo tuned by Cal with XFI.
 
s10 wheel cylinders (manual brake cylinders) and soft shoes
my preference ..trans brake , i ran the stagerite brake for years and years every pass with no issues
 
What year S10 do I get them from? Which brand pads do you like? I was thinking of putting a brake in. This is a TH400 also.
 
the brake on the th400 will be rev manual constant pressure valvebody
youll also want to make sure your driveline is up to the hit (driveshaft , ujoints, yoke, axles, wheel studs )

85 s10 and the cheapest shoes (organic ) buy two sets use the long ones,
 
Sweet! Thanks Pace! I will go pic some up and try that first. if it doesn't work then I am going Trans brake and a new converter.
 
If you are going to change to the S-10 wheel cylinders and big brake shoes, then you will want to install a line lock so as to not overheat the rear brakes while doing a burnout.
 
Got all the brake stuff. I will pick up a line lock. Which line lock you guys recommend?
 
the summit brand is basically the hurst but cheaper

the biondo requires less fittings (only has in and out port ) and cheaper yet

nhra says after the prop valve but the biondo on the fender works , short line plumbed to the master on the front brake line to the inlet port with the oe coiled line plumbed to the outlet with fittings to convert to 1/8npt ,
or cut the line, double flare on some 3/16" nuts , get two 3/16inv flare to 1/8npt adapters for the line lock solenoid
 
Hey Pacecarta, what do I need to get if I don't want to cut the lines? Do you have a diagram?
 
no diagram ,
the line lock takes 1/8 npt fittings for in and out , if you get the hurst youll have to get some plugs to plug the extra outlet ports

you need a short 3/16" steel line (6-8" is fine )with the end for the master cylinder (front brake side ) and 3/16 flare at other side , they usually keep the premade lines on a rack behind the pro desk . if you cant find the hose pre-made with end for master then get what you can and hit the adapters drawer or the rack for an adapter think its 5/16 inv flare
once you have the master to 3/16" you need a 3/16 -1/8mpt adapter for input and an 1/8 Mpt to 5/16 inv flare to connect the stock line

what you can do is pull a line from a car at junkyard and flare the other end with a 3/16 inv nut and then geta 3/16invflare x 1/8npt adapter for the input to the solenoid

the easiest if you can double flare is to cut and flare what you have , i have a hydraulic flare that makes that job cake

even easier is call cottons and order a kit ready to bolt in .BR107
bottom of page .. http://www.cottonsperformance.com/products.asp?cat=93
 
Scot at GNS has a kit with everything including a nice powder coated bracket that you don't need to drill holes to mount

Bryan
 
Scot at GNS has a kit with everything including a nice powder coated bracket that you don't need to drill holes to mount

Bryan

i thought about GNS but couldnt remember if he had a kit or just the bracket
 
I need this done by next Thursday. Don't know if I can order anything and have it here in time to go race on Friday. What is the size of the master cylinder fitting is all I need to know I guess?
 
Tie a rope around the E-brake handle and engage it when staged. Push on the brake pedel hard and build boost. Then all at once, pull the rope and let off brake pedel.
 
Maybe I missed it, but do you have braided brake lines? It's an $80 generic G body kit from Jegs...between the braided lines and S10 wheel cylinders, I can build some decent boost! Made a HUGE difference off the line
 
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