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Floored the gas, and didnt go anywhere!...

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kTrainHurricane

Vader Drives a GN
Joined
Mar 22, 2009
Messages
500
I was on my way home from work tonight and laid into it from first gear in D. I was doing about 20 already, maybe a little less. Anyway, it did its little "lag" thing then jumped up to 4k rpms but then basically stopped goin. RPMs went from 4k-4,500 and the car didnt seem to continue accelerating during that period. Once it hit 4,500 rpms i let off and cruised on into the neighborhood. Any ideas on what this may be? I'm thinking tranny, but it was rebuilt a little over 10k miles ago... :mad:
 
Valve springs are a possibility but a more common problem is fuel delivery, maybe you could try revving it in neutral to confirm springs, and watch for pressure in the fuel system. Bad pump, low pressure, plugged filter, good diagnosis saves a lot of time and money.
 
How old are the valve springs.


IMHO, the valvespring thing is WAY OVER BLOWN as a possible issue in problems like this. I have two personal experiences that steer my opinion.

1. My 87 has over 135,000 miles on it's unopened motor, and still hauls $$S and runs like perfectly. And still run 12.9's on a bone stock motor.

2. My 86's first motor had over 140,000 miles on it when I took it out, and at that time was easilly running 12.1's on nothing more than 40# injectors, turbo, and FMIC.

I think he's got other issues. His OP wasn't real clear on exactly what the car was doing. Did it rev to 4500 and stop there, or did he stop there?
Did it rev to 4500 and the car not accelerate, or what?

Sounds to me like the engine reved to 4500 but the car didn't respond and he lifted. If that's the case it sounds more like a tranny or torque converter.
 
10k miles on a tranny thats getting beat on is pretty good.

Way different on a car being driven gently than on something every day that gets hammered.
 
10k miles on a tranny thats getting beat on is pretty good.

Way different on a car being driven gently than on something every day that gets hammered.

the car has honestly been "hammered on" a maximum number of 10 times or less within that 10k mile period...
 
The trans won't shift if it doesn't get to the shift rpm at full throttle, when you lift up it will shift to the higher gear. If a motor doesn't rev high enough due to low fuel pressure, or whatever you might think it's trans, but if it works fine otherwise it's probably something else. I know a few customers that ddin't believe me until I proved it. To confirm trans slip try a stall test and see if it is the same stall as before, but I'll bet on fuel filter, pump or kinked line etc.:rolleyes:

Thank you, Larry Johnson
Westshore Transmissions Ltd.
1081 Dunford Ave.
Victoria, BC V9B 2S4
(866)459-7070 or (250)478-7070
ASE and ATRA Certified Journeyman Transmission Tech
Victoria Transmission Repair
"Where Quality is Automatic and Good Service is Standard”


AKA Larry J-29 years experience
 
The trans won't shift if it doesn't get to the shift rpm at full throttle, when you lift up it will shift to the higher gear. If a motor doesn't rev high enough due to low fuel pressure, or whatever you might think it's trans, but if it works fine otherwise it's probably something else. I know a few customers that ddin't believe me until I proved it. To confirm trans slip try a stall test and see if it is the same stall as before, but I'll bet on fuel filter, pump or kinked line etc.

If it was a fuel delivery problem, would it keep going like that? Or just lean out and blow up instantly.
 
It depends on how lean it is, it can cause real damage. What is the fuel pressure when it happens?
 
What I was getting at is if is totally out of pressure it won't even make enough heat to cause immediate damage, but if there is not quite enough pressure there it will cause major damage, or if the pressure dips just below recommended PSI it might go unnoticed until it damages the pistons and rings. This is all just guess work untill you Diagnose it, don't drive it until you are ready to test it.
Larry J
 
What I was getting at was...that if it hit 4500 rpms, then it's not out of pressure. So that leaves the other choice, of "just lean enough"... which again, if it was goin lean, under a WOT foot, it would have already blown up....
 
Maybe I'm missunderstanding you. :frown: Hey-I just noticed that halfway through you added >B&M stage 3 shift kit< to your discription, did you just put this in? :rolleyes: If not is this -3 kit setup for automatic shifts???? Or do you have to shift it.

But even then, :frown: if I understand what your saying, if the rpm doesn't go any higher in first- the fact is unless your rpm is being limited by a rev limiter gone wild, or your timing is way way out, there is more load on the fuel system as the rpms come up, it can rev to 11,000 in neutral- it doesn't matter, it is under way more load at full throttle in gear as the rpm raises- no more fuel=no more revving. If it was springs it would have to be absolutely terrible in neutral too, not at all common. If it is a rev limiter it will still limit it in neutral. If the trans is slipping in first it will slip at a dead stop too.

If your foot is to the floor in an automatic shifting car the transmission will not shift until the set shift rpm, so if the motor is limited to 4500 and the shift speed is 4700 then the trans won't shift until you let the pedal up.

If your tv cable is set all the way in, it may want to shift later if it is setup for automatic shifts. But it still shouldn't shift at 4000-4500 until you lift the pedal. Did you try a stall test? It is possible the trans is slipping, but if it is first gear like I understood, then a stall test should confirm this. If a stall test gives you the right results (your trans doesn't rev to more than the stall speed by 700 or 2000 or more rpm (3500-4800)then you need to check the engine. It should be simple to hook up a fuel pressure guage:
if there is no fitting to connect to then you could cut the line and put a tee in. I think the factory pressure is minimum 33 psi for injected cars, although I think I heard guys saying they like 43 or even 50 plus pounds. But if it's as bad as you've experienced, it may be 5, 10, 20, or 0? You won't know until you do 3 tests what is going on.

1. Stall test in first gear.:biggrin:
2. Rev test in neutral.:tongue:
3. Fuel pressure test while flooring it at a stall test and then while driving it and flooring it in first, and don't push it hard if you already see the pressure is too low.:frown:
4. Do 1,2 and 3.:p

If you don't test it, you won't fix it. Good luck man, you could bring it to the shop here and I'll test it for free if your in the area.
:cool:

Thank you, Larry Johnson
Westshore Transmissions Ltd.
1081 Dunford Ave.
Victoria, BC V9B 2S4
(866)459-7070 or (250)478-7070
ASE and ATRA Certified Journeyman Transmission Tech
Victoria Transmission Repair
"Where Quality is Automatic and Good Service is Standard”
 
This happened to me once the turbo took a sht it felt like I was driving a stock non turbo V6. Also check dipstick for milk and maybe change the fuel filter.
 
The trans won't shift if it doesn't get to the shift rpm at full throttle, when you lift up it will shift to the higher gear. If a motor doesn't rev high enough due to low fuel pressure, or whatever you might think it's trans, but if it works fine otherwise it's probably something else. I know a few customers that ddin't believe me until I proved it. To confirm trans slip try a stall test and see if it is the same stall as before, but I'll bet on fuel filter, pump or kinked line etc.:rolleyes:

Thank you, Larry Johnson
Westshore Transmissions Ltd.
1081 Dunford Ave.
Victoria, BC V9B 2S4
(866)459-7070 or (250)478-7070
ASE and ATRA Certified Journeyman Transmission Tech
Victoria Transmission Repair
"Where Quality is Automatic and Good Service is Standard”


AKA Larry J-29 years experience


Update: i took this advice into consideration. So, i tried again today but this time didnt let off, and it shifted into 2nd gear justy shy of 6k RPMs. So it seems as though what is actually happening is that the car has a power loss between 4k and 6k RPMs, because once it shifted into 2nd it jolted me back into the seat again...
 
Update: i took this advice into consideration. So, i tried again today but this time didnt let off, and it shifted into 2nd gear justy shy of 6k RPMs. So it seems as though what is actually happening is that the car has a power loss between 4k and 6k RPMs, because once it shifted into 2nd it jolted me back into the seat again...

"Update: i took this advice into consideration." That wasn't advise- :eek:that was just a guess at the problem-my advise was to do a stall test to check the trans. To prove what the problem is you have to actually try driving it with a pressure guage like I mentioned in my advise above when I was up at 3:30 this morning- :( you don't want to push it that hard without knowing the pressure. Did you manage to check anything else like the timing, you'll never know if pressure is the problem until someone hooks up a guage, if you don't want to do it yourself you should find a shop or a friend to hook up that guage for the next time you drive it.
Larry Johnson
 
Why don't you have someone install a permanent fuel pressure guage. I have used one for years and my car isn't turboed yet. I found it saved me a motor once in the quarter mile when it ran low on fuel pressure just at the end of the track.

It's cheap insurance.
Larry J
 
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