Forever building boost ?

[Brasco]

Just installed a new 6776 bb on my car with a new front mount. Building boost is a chore. Is there a proper way of adjusting the adjustable HD actuator.( i pretty much loosened it up and put it on the arm) Theres no leaks that i see i have a 3200 pats converter. I think im missing something simple and just needed some ideas. i also have a turbosmart manual boost controller between turbo housing and actuator.


Thanks Donny

 

[19TTA89]

I see you just turned the rod out and slipped it on,You should have to pull some tension against the rod in order to put it on the wastegate...If it is too loose,And there is no tension,It will just push the puck off of the hole and dump any boost you are attempting to build.

I usually turn the rod to where it just barely touches,Then pull it a bit to slide it on.

Try tightening up the actuator and see what happens.

 

[street6]

after checking to make sure the wastegate actuator rod has tension to keep the puck closed while building boost read my second post under...."good turbo w/ stock converter?" regarding the pats converter.

i see you have a 3200 pats converter. i have a 3200 pats converter running a te-60 and it will only foot brake approx. 2750 rpms @ zero boost. pats rates their converters at 4-5#s boost (not at zero boost like PTC converters). so basically imo my 3200 pats converter is only a 2800. with foot braking, what kind of rpms are you at with zero boost?

 

[Brasco]

I adjusted the rod and no good. Footbraking the car i can get 2800 rpm at zero pounds of boost roughly. I would have to try again tommorow to be sure. first gear is weak once it hits second it pulls pretty good nothing out of control but it pulls. I can barely meke five pounds standing on the gas.

 

[Brasco]

ok street6 read the tread about pats converters makes sense. I was thinking the same thing to lean it out thinking it was way fat that she couldnt spool up. But now im lost i thought even if it was a 2800 converter that since the 6776 was a bb turbo it didnt need more than 2800. I can get it restalled if i had to. maybe i need 3600 in the pats?

 

[streetknight]

I'm no expert at all, but I would think it should spool regardless of the converter, just won't as fast. I ran a TE61 ( I know is a lot smaller than yours) with a stock D5 and I could leave the line with 13 psi, but it did take a while to build that much boost.

 

[street6]

I've never ran a 6776 bb turbo, but if someone asked me I would think one would need more than 2800 stall @ zero boost to achive more that 5#'s at the line like you getting.

If it were me I would ask around before going straight for the restall (having to do two restalls would suk!). Ask someone who has a 6776 bb turbo to get a base line for what stall @ zero boost is needed for that turbo (and a similar motor build to yours).

good luck, and let me know what you find.

 

[Brasco]

Thanks and i will. Ill post a new thread on it.

 

[Two T's]

I have a te45a and Have a 3400 stall pats conv. and get no boost off the line either am going to install big wheel cylinders and the 4 big shoes to see if it helps another club member friend of mine said that he adjusted his shoes as this is normally over looked he then got 6 lbs of boost off the line, tried on my car no luck though that is why I am going to try wheel cylinders during my plant shut down.

 

[street6]

Two T's- someone mentioned this to me as well, ref building boost at the line. before swapping brakes (unless you know for sure your are toast) try and set the emergency brake to see how much boost you can get off the line. when i used my emergency brake i did not see any additional boost off the line, so i am confident the brake upgrade would not do me much good ref being able to build more boost or to get more rpms at the line.

 

[Brasco]

Yes sorry i wish that was the problem my breaks are strong as a rock she dosent move a inch just wont spool. Im thinking its the converter.

 

[WhiteTtype989]

Im having the same problem i have a 9.5 protorque lock up and at zero boost its around 2800 rpms . Its supposed to be a 3200-3400 ish stall do they rate at 3-4 pounds of boost to instead of 0 zero boost

 

[streetknight]

Out of curiosity, are you guys measuring the stall speed by "flash" or foot braking the car until it starts to build boost?

 

[Dusty Bradford]

Im having the same problem i have a 9.5 protorque lock up and at zero boost its around 2800 rpms . Its supposed to be a 3200-3400 ish stall do they rate at 3-4 pounds of boost to instead of 0 zero boost

What size turbo do you have?

The DBB 67's have been proven to work with a 2800 at 0# stall. The old school journal bearing 63's and larger need 3200 and up.

 

[GNVYUS 1]

Brasco, I'd try this with the Manual Boost Controller first.

Pull out the screw until the car is running purely off the WG's internal spring tension ( sounds like 18psi with the HD ). Then turn in the MBC until you gain only 2psi of boost through it ( this way there is some tension on the MBC's internal spring ).

From that point forward, you turn in the rod for boost increases, this will have a bigger effect on your spooling then the MBC will. Make sure your turbo exhaust housing WG hole is ported and you'll be fine on hammer downs ( spikes ) when you screw in the rod a ton.

 

[Brasco]

I bypassed the MBC with a vacuum tee so it would just run off the actuator and nothing good and the exhaust port is ported nicely and not to big.