OK, did the drain check with the neg. battery cable (thanks everyone). It was showing .30-.32 on the 10A scale. I pulled the fuse for CIG-CLK and it went down to .06 . I pulled the cig lighter out and same results. Took off my radio face plate and same results? What do I do now?
Found my fuse that was draining power, Now what??
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Try unplugging the plug off of the back of the cigarette lighter housing. I traced a problem once to the cigarette lighter and the housing was somehow grounding out in the plug on the back. The plug looked fine, so I just bought a replacement lighter and housing. It worked fine then.
Scottyb-
I disconnected the lighter from the connector in the back. Is there another way to do it?
I disconnected (one by one) the glove box light, the 2 lights that light when the door opens (under the dash panels), the headliner light (just the middle one not the 2 switch ones), the trunk light!!!!
NOTHING! Still reading .33.
I disconnected the lighter from the connector in the back. Is there another way to do it?
I disconnected (one by one) the glove box light, the 2 lights that light when the door opens (under the dash panels), the headliner light (just the middle one not the 2 switch ones), the trunk light!!!!
NOTHING! Still reading .33.
Sorry, I misunderstood. I thought that the lighter did it.
???
Damn, I don't know off hand what else is on that circuit. Is the continuous power for the radio on that circuit? (CLK - clock)
If so, what would be an acceptable draw for this?
???
Damn, I don't know off hand what else is on that circuit. Is the continuous power for the radio on that circuit? (CLK - clock)
If so, what would be an acceptable draw for this?
salvageV6
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I bet some foxy babe left the vanity mirror light on.
Either that or some vain guy.
Other checks would be electronic A/C controller memory power.
Your radar detector or some other added power always on circuitry?
Door lock switches.
Power antenna relay.
Chime module.
Digital dash cluster.
Engine compartment light, hood open during the test?
Either that or some vain guy.
Other checks would be electronic A/C controller memory power.
Your radar detector or some other added power always on circuitry?
Door lock switches.
Power antenna relay.
Chime module.
Digital dash cluster.
Engine compartment light, hood open during the test?
salvageV6
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Ooops, forgot one.
Security light indicator.
Security light indicator.
OK, checked the vanity mirror. Drew .80 so it is not it. My AC has never worked. I don't have a digital dash. My power antenna is busted. My chime module is gone. My bulb under the hood was disconnected. And I don't have a security light.
I do have an alarm that was off when I was doing the testing, but the LED light was on. Would my alarm be hardwired into CIG-CLK????
I do have an alarm that was off when I was doing the testing, but the LED light was on. Would my alarm be hardwired into CIG-CLK????
salvageV6
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With the wiring as you described anything is possible.
Seems a bit high on the continuous draw however.
Never measured the draw on an aftermarket alarm so I can't say for sure.
I'd check for added wiring.
Seems a bit high on the continuous draw however.
Never measured the draw on an aftermarket alarm so I can't say for sure.
I'd check for added wiring.
Try unplugging BOTH connectors on the fan delay relay. This is one of the most common power draining problems in the GN. I would remove it altogether. Look for your current drain after you unplug it.
It's the largest relay found on the drivers side inner fender well.
-John Spina
http://www.casperselectronics.com
Look for the SEPTEMBER SPECIALS on the website!
It's the largest relay found on the drivers side inner fender well.
-John Spina
http://www.casperselectronics.com
Look for the SEPTEMBER SPECIALS on the website!
Scott-
You got it. When I put the connector on the battery/cable. It says .30-.33. After I wait about 5 sec.s with the connections still on each other. It quickly goes down to .05-.06 I am ready to give up. I thought that it was my alarm at first, ,but I had it on and off and same thing kept reading.
You got it. When I put the connector on the battery/cable. It says .30-.33. After I wait about 5 sec.s with the connections still on each other. It quickly goes down to .05-.06 I am ready to give up. I thought that it was my alarm at first, ,but I had it on and off and same thing kept reading.
Try disconnecting the orange ECM MEM wire to the battery, then do the same thing...see if that plays into it.
John Spina
http://www.casperselectronics.com
John Spina
http://www.casperselectronics.com
salvageV6
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.3 amps. for 5 seconds down to a normal .05 amps. continuous isn't going to drain the battery.
Prolly the alarm system with the initial draw.
I'd leave the meter hooked up on a day you don't plan on driving the car and are staying home.
Every 1/2 hour go out and read the draw. If it stays at .05 button it up and drive it.
Prolly the alarm system with the initial draw.
I'd leave the meter hooked up on a day you don't plan on driving the car and are staying home.
Every 1/2 hour go out and read the draw. If it stays at .05 button it up and drive it.
John-
I tried the ECM wire disconnected, same thing.
Salvage-
I left the meter on for about 15 mins and watched it. Same thing. Kept changing from .05 to .04.
I was initially concerned because it felt like my battery was taking longer to start the car when I didn't use it after 3-5 days. Also my battery reading would be a little lower as the days added up and I didn't use it.
I tried the ECM wire disconnected, same thing.
Salvage-
I left the meter on for about 15 mins and watched it. Same thing. Kept changing from .05 to .04.
I was initially concerned because it felt like my battery was taking longer to start the car when I didn't use it after 3-5 days. Also my battery reading would be a little lower as the days added up and I didn't use it.
