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Frame notching questions

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TURBOTIMMER

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2002
Messages
1,040
I know this has probably been covered 1000 times. Has anybody reused the frame sections that were removed? Seems like that would be easier than cutting new ones out since they'll pretty much go back in the exact same place .
 
The stock frame material is pretty thin. Since your making it weaker it would probably make sense to use some thicker material to box it back in. Do a search there are lots of good info on this...with pictures.
 
Yes many have but using the cut out sections to make a pattern on the new metal ends up cleaner and stronger.
 
Looks like I'll be headed to my local steel supplier this week. Car needs to go to my chassis guy this summer, so I wanna get all the work to the frame done. Going to message the inner wheel houses and do some additional bracing to the frame. The car has some rust, so I also want to fix the rust issues and get the body back to the frame for good. I'll post pics of my progress.
 
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I got this car from my stepbrother's wife (he died of cancer a little over a year ago). His plan was to do a frame off restoration on it. I tried talking him out of taking it apart as it was a decent beater, and he really didn't have the room or resources to do it. It's an 86 WH1 with burgundy interior and a power moonroof. Pretty rare car, but it spent most of it's life here in the salt belt, so it's far from rust free. He already had the body unbolted from the frame and a lot of it disassembled, so I figured it would be the perfect platform for some chassis upgrades and a good drivetrain.

Since the frame was already loose from the body, I dropped it down and started the notch by removing about 1 1/8". This was done with a cutoff wheel on a grinder. I then raised the frame back to the body to test fit the rear tires. When taking measurements, I noticed that the frame had actually sprung, and now the rear rails were spread apart about 3/4" more than before the cut. I raised the frame back to the car, got the rear body mounts lined back up with the holes in the body, and tack welded a scrap piece of angle across the rails to keep them at the correct width. My plan is to add a piece of 1 5/8" .083" chromoly tubing across the rear of the spring perches where the shock mounts are located. I'll try to update with pics as I get stuff done, but it'll be a slow process.
 
I was going to post that you're a sharp man for welding that piece of angle iron across the rails. But then I read you did it after the fact. Oh well. Sounds like you got it figured out in the end. Putting a brace across the perches is a good idea after notching the frame. Looks like you notched to the seam on the rails. That's supposed to bring the frame in line with the wheel wells.
 
Yeah, my stepbrother had already removed all the body bolts, and quite frankly, I'didn't think the frame would move that much. Most of the notch posts I've read have been done with the frame still bolted with the body. I'm also adding the rear crossmember from GNS to help stiffen it up some more. Everything will be tach welded with a 110 mig. Then when the frame is out, I'll finish everything with the tig.
 
I bought a kit from a guy on this site .... something kid ... it had heavy weight steel
 
Gbody does have a kit. I went with making my own, but the parts I made are similar to the kit. FWIW, after buying the steel and the time with the plasma cutter, I should have just bought that kit and saved time. Time is money.
 
Gbody does have a kit. I went with making my own, but the parts I made are similar to the kit. FWIW, after buying the steel and the time with the plasma cutter, I should have just bought that kit and saved time. Time is money.

I hear that. Problem now is with all the bad press I've read about GBody lately, I'm not real comfortable ordering from them right now. I'll probably just end up making the plates myself.
 
Everything will be tach welded with a 110 mig. Then when the frame is out, I'll finish everything with the tig.

Be really careful welding it with the frame off the body. I've read several recommendations to do a bit on one side and then switch to the other side for a bit so you don't heat things up too much and get warpage.
 
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