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fuel pump relay

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bosted86

Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2005
Messages
497
my car is not getting fuel to the fuel rail. it just wouldn't start one day. filter is new. how llikely is it the fuel pump relay. i dont hear the pump kicking on. i unpluged the fuel pump and put a test light on and had the center wire hot(dont remember whether it was the pink one or tan one.) no others were hot. no trouble codes.

thanks
 
"FP/INJ" fuse in the fuse block good? easiest thing to check. It has popped on me for no apparent reason before.
 
As long as you have oil pressure car should start,will take more cranks if relay is bad.Check the fuse then the pump.
 
fuse is good. so your saying that iit is probably the pump. is there a way to check the pump prior to dropping the tank?
 
bosted86 said:
fuse is good. so your saying that iit is probably the pump. is there a way to check the pump prior to dropping the tank?
YES! but first check the ECM wire coming from the batt terminal Mine was broke after the fuseable link and I ended up buying one from advance auto for$2.95 if thats okay then there is a wire by the tach hook up it's got a female plug end on it, I took a wire about 8" long put a male spade end on it and stripped the other end. put the male spade end into the other one and touch it to the back of the alt. if you hear the pump run then it's not the pump. But make shure (with out a question) that the ECM wire is getting 12v. Disconect the ECM wire then Take a volt meter and check the ECM wire right at the batt terminal and then on the end of the same wire that clips into the ecm connector. if you have 12v in both places the fusable link is okay. Let us know what you find... Scot w.
 
Going off memory here so bare with me.

So you are positive your fuel inj. Fuse is O.K.?

The connector that goes into the fuel tank sending unit contains three wires. Black is ground. A tan wire with a white tracer is the power wire going directly to the fuel pump do you have power at this location? Remember unless you get the car running you are only going to have power for two seconds after the key is turned to the run position. This is because the ECM only allows the pump to run for two seconds when the ignition is turned to the run position. The third wire is a power wire also; it is the one that is connected to the rheostat in your tank, it tells your gauge what fuel level to read depending on how much voltage it is receiving.

You have a fuel pump test lead wire on your Buick, you can supply power to this wire and the fuel pump will run if it is not bad. This wire is located behind the A.C. compressor next to the valve cover right above the header (I think it is a grey wire). Next to it will be the Tachometer test lead. (Sometimes people plug these two leads together accidentally and their tachometers go bonkers). By supplying 12 volts to this lead the pump should run, if it don’t I think the pump may be bad.

If it does then continue on.

Next check fuel pump relay wires. The fuel pump relay is the middle relay on the passenger side fender. One of the wires connected to this relay is a dark green wire with a white tracer, located in pin A1 of the fuel pump relay wire harness socket assembly. When you turn the key to the run position the ECM triggers 12 volts for two seconds to the Dark green wire with a white tracer. In order to check this wire for power you will need some help. Get your test light on this lead and have your assistant turn the key to the run position, it should turn on the test light for two seconds, does it?

If the test light indicates you have power for two seconds then the internal Ecm relay is working. If it does not light lthen check that wire Scott is reffering to.

If it lights then turn the ignition key to off and probe the tan with white tracer wire plugged into the fuel pump relay (socket B).

Did it light up for two seconds?

If it did not light up check the black with white tracer, is it making a good ground?

If the ground is good and the tan with white tracer is not powering up you probably have a bad relay.

Also remember the oil pressure switch CANNOT cause your pump not to run (unless the pump relay is bad). It's there as a back up for the relay, and hooked in parallel. If the relay goes bad, the oil pressure switch bypasses it as long as you have 4lbs of oil pressure the fuel pump will stay running.
 
"Also remember the oil pressure switch CANNOT cause your pump not to run (unless the pump relay is bad). It's there as a back up for the relay, and hooked in parallel. If the relay goes bad, the oil pressure switch bypasses it as long as you have 4lbs of oil pressure the fuel pump will stay running."

Can the oil pressure switch cause the car to die if it is bad by itself ?

Mine seems to start and run for about 1 minute or very near that and then dies.
The pump will start up when i turn the ignition back on and start up and run again for just about 1 minute and die.The car does have an after market hotwire kit also. How do you install a new relay. The heavy black wire is solid the best i can tell all the way back to the pump. Also is it common to leave the original relay on the car also ? If so where should it be located ?
Thanks
 
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