Alright bud, I got the constant power from the wire that was run for the hotwire kit. I dont THINK you have a bad ground or I would not have been able to trigger your fuel pump manually.
You are correct in that I did test all of your fuses in the fusebox. Hell, its so easy with a test light why not?
GUYS here is what we have it narrowed down from;
Hotwire Kit is functioning properly.
No power at the factory fuel pump wire.
Relay under the hood is good for the fuel pump
ECU has been swapped, hoping that would help.
I triggered the fuel pump by jumpering past the factory wire and applying power to the hotwire, pump fired right up.
I am NOT sure whats going on here folks? Help john out! I need to hear his hooker catback system
John, your ground has to be solid because I was able to power up your fuel pump by applying power to the relay trigger.
I also attempted to bypass the hotwire when I was at your house and got nothing (like you did).
My question is how the oil pressure switch works. Why is it there and whats its purpose and hows it do it? If I remember correctly that is the sender that tells the car to not run the fuel pump with no oil pressure right? Maybe its bad and broken (making the car think theres no oil pressure when there is).
John, you had some serious undervoltage going on there. How did the battery take to the charger? I am still thinking that might be a problem.
I also unhooked the ECU, and plugged it back in. When i turned the key on, it built fuel pressure and shut off. When i went to start it didnt do squat, i got like nothing for pressure. Thats why im thinking hes undervolting his warlboro 370 pump. His voltage was dropping (the day i was there) down to like 7 volts during cranking. I dont think thats enough to keep the fuel pump pushing fuel when attempting startup.
Any ideas guys?
Evan