Fuel Question? In-tank Double Or External

thanks for that info as i have one filter already so i will pick up another one and also where exactly did you mount your pump as i have the A1000 aeromotive and was thinking the frame rail or as you did the rear bumper support if that is where you put yours thanks mike.

I made a bracket and mounted my pump to the floor pan right behind the tank. Framerail will also work.
 
Internal & external pumps together..

Could'nt you leave the upgraded Red armstrong or walbro pump in the tank and run a external pump With bigger lines! that kicks on with a hobs switch at a certian boost? say 10-12lbs? It would be like stock untill you went over that boost setting. That way you would'nt have to worry about driving long distances with a external running all the time. Thats what i'd like to do or will be doing. Scot w.
 
Could'nt you leave the upgraded Red armstrong or walbro pump in the tank and run a external pump With bigger lines! that kicks on with a hobs switch at a certian boost? say 10-12lbs? It would be like stock untill you went over that boost setting. That way you would'nt have to worry about driving long distances with a external running all the time. Thats what i'd like to do or will be doing. Scot w.

We are going to do this on a buddies TSM car. We will sell the double pumper system and put the stock pump and hanger back in the car. Plans are to sump the stock tank and install the external. The external and the intank will be T'd together with a block valve on each pump's line at the T. I prefer block valves rather than a check valve to prevent back flow through the pump that's not running.

Power will be supplied by relays and triggered by the FAST system. We'll install a switch either on the power or ground to the relay so we can choose which system to run on.
 
We are going to do this on a buddies TSM car. We will sell the double pumper system and put the stock pump and hanger back in the car. Plans are to sump the stock tank and install the external. The external and the intank will be T'd together with a block valve on each pump's line at the T. I prefer block valves rather than a check valve to prevent back flow through the pump that's not running.

Power will be supplied by relays and triggered by the FAST system. We'll install a switch either on the power or ground to the relay so we can choose which system to run on.
Me and Mark Thomas aka (puddin) are planning on something similar. I recently bought my TSM engine from Will Wheeler (in my sig) and my plans are to have a very streetable TSM street/strip brawler. something I can drive 4hrs to Bowling Green and run some killer times and drive home.. Dusty If you don't mind, Please keep me up-dated on this project. The engine is still on my stand awaiting powder coating being done and my converter from Art-Carr (the real one!) to come back so i have all winter to figure out what we can do. Thanks Dusty! Scot w.
 
Dusty, Jay Carter posted over on t6p (I think) that every time he welded a sump onto a stock tank he had bad rust problems. Look there for the details, sorry I don't remember more. Also, as scarce as good stock tanks are getting, why not sump a n/a tank and just use the pump controller to turn down one big external pump? Just a thought.
 
Dusty, Jay Carter posted over on t6p (I think) that every time he welded a sump onto a stock tank he had bad rust problems. Look there for the details, sorry I don't remember more. Also, as scarce as good stock tanks are getting, why not sump a n/a tank and just use the pump controller to turn down one big external pump? Just a thought.

Thanks. I have an n/a regal at the house we'll use the tank from. I think the GN tanks have a lot of plastic in them for dividers or something. Seems like they have the same hanger design where it fastens to the pump.

We'd just put a cell in the trunk but some people prefer not to pop the trunk to fill the tank.

What kind of rust problems are you talking about? Maybe stopping the filter up? I have seen one tank where the owner just brazed a -10 outlet to the bottom of the tank. I think he ruined at least 3 SX pumps because it was picking up so much rust. We assumed it was from the in ground tanks and had been accumalating since 87:confused: That's why we'd rather sump it since you can flush a lot of the years gunk from the tank.


Scott. I'll keep you updated or get with me if you don't hear back. It may be a while before we get to this. The motor has to be gone through because of this pump issue. It cut a bad groove in the block and head when the gasket let go. Not to mention all the work I have to do on my own with a new combo, building headers, etc.........another drag radial turbo project Malibu. The list goes on...
 
Thanks for the links.

I read all the comments. Going by what I saw on a different car I still believe the rust issue is from years of accumilating rust and silt from gas tanks at the stations. The car we had issues with was not sumped but had a -10 fitting installed on the bottom of tank. It would stop up the suction filter to the pump in a matter of weeks with rust. There's no way it came from a sump.

For the sump to rust would mean it would have to contact water. Water will settle in the bottom of the tank if you happened to pick some up at your local station but would move through the system fast enough it should have no major effect on rusting.

Just my thought's from working in the chemical plant/gas industry
 
Well, as they say forewarned is forearmed, or is that fivearmed? :biggrin: One nice thing about a continuously circulating fuel system such as ours is that it is hard for water to drop out of solution and collect in the sump bottom, and all the alcohol in pump gasoline these days pretty much keeps the water and gasoline well mixed (no need for drygas any more). Hope yours stays rust free.
 
All this info is a good thing:biggrin:

I guess we'll cut into a n/a tank and go from there. I'm curious to see how much junk may be laying in the tank.
 
dusty let me know about the dual fuel pump setup also as i like the idea of running the intank walboro around on the street and then having the aeromotive kick in at a pre-determined boost. I already have a 340 intank setup and i am getting ready to run the A1000 pump so would be great to see how the setup works as i would rather run the stock pump on the street and then the A1000 kick in under high boost, also are you going to modify the pickup on the intank setup to run 10an line from the tank to the pump? or just run 8an line all the way as im looking to run 10an from tank to pump and 8an to rail mike.
 
We already have a -8 from the hanger to the rail. We will sump the stock tank for the external and tie the external into the exisiting -8 line.

We will use a manual switch to select either external or intank. I'm not going to trust the motor to a hobbs switch to make the switch under boost.

Still haven't worked out the details. We may could leave the intank on all the time. Just have to make sure the pressure from the external won't back into the intank since the discharge of both pumps will be T'd together.
 
I like to keep things simple so I have reservations about suggesting having the second in tank come on at about 10 psi and the external pump on at 20 psi. Then the possibility of fuel backing up into the tank would be reduced.
Jeff
 
I like to keep things simple so I have reservations about suggesting having the second in tank come on at about 10 psi and the external pump on at 20 psi. Then the possibility of fuel backing up into the tank would be reduced.
Jeff

Me too......We talked about it tonight. Cars getting a fuel cell and external. Owner doesn't want to take any chances. He already has the Aeromotive pump so I'll figure out a way for him to street drive it. Looks like he'll be buying the Aeromotive controller.
 
this is what im doing, i just picked up a tank from a good friend that had been modified for a stage 2 car with a 3/4 tube through the sending unit where the original fuel line was and it comes out of the tank and bends 90 towards the fill tube with a 10an fitting on it of which ill run the 10an line that is on it to my pump and then a 8an line from the pump to the motor with a Y-block at the motor and two 8an lines one for each side of the rail (champion billet rails) and on the back side i will run two 6an lines from the rails to a aeromotive regulator # (13109) that will place each line in either side of the regulator and the return will come from the bottom that will be spliced into the original fuel feed line and i will turn the original filter around backwards for the return flow. I feel more comfortable having less going on and relying on a second pump hopefully working were as if my aeromotive pump goes then the car just shuts off versus a pump going in mid WOT and now i have a nice expensive paper weight for my sunday paper LOL. the setup i got from my friend fixes all my issues and im only running the aeromotive pump which is rated for like 1000+ hp which my car doesn't have.

ps anyone need a new double pump setup from reds?
 
Why not
Why not just install a second hanger with a second fuel pump. In the tank
And install 2 fuel reg. and on each fuel line install a pressure switch on each line with a light on the dash.
Green light pump one
Yellow light pump two
thats something i would do
 
anyone looking for a reds double intake pump setup brand new never out of the box with hobbs switch etc. 525.00 shipped.
 
We already have a -8 from the hanger to the rail. We will sump the stock tank for the external and tie the external into the exisiting -8 line.

We will use a manual switch to select either external or intank. I'm not going to trust the motor to a hobbs switch to make the switch under boost.

Still haven't worked out the details. We may could leave the intank on all the time. Just have to make sure the pressure from the external won't back into the intank since the discharge of both pumps will be T'd together.
Dusty, just wanted to know if you have finished on the sumping of the tank, reason is I am about in the same situation installing a new motor in and wanting to sump the stock tank and go external pump trying to keep the car as streetable as possible without having to cut the car up, already having to put a cage in it, let me know when you have time on how this is working of comming along and any other ideas. Thanks Jr.
 
Dusty, just wanted to know if you have finished on the sumping of the tank, reason is I am about in the same situation installing a new motor in and wanting to sump the stock tank and go external pump trying to keep the car as streetable as possible without having to cut the car up, already having to put a cage in it, let me know when you have time on how this is working of comming along and any other ideas. Thanks Jr.

Owner of the car decided to put a cell in the trunk so we won't be sumping the stock tank. If you do decide to sump a stock tank, find a tank from an N/A Regal and don't sump the turbo tank. They have a lot of plastic baffling in them. I'm not sure if the n/a tank has any baffling but it'd be nice to keep your stock tank around.
 
Owner of the car decided to put a cell in the trunk so we won't be sumping the stock tank. If you do decide to sump a stock tank, find a tank from an N/A Regal and don't sump the turbo tank. They have a lot of plastic baffling in them. I'm not sure if the n/a tank has any baffling but it'd be nice to keep your stock tank around.
Sounds great Dusty, plan on doing what you said, wanting the car to keep the car as stock looking as possible. :smile: Jr.
 
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