Fuel regulator bypass fitting (-6 AN)

[turbofabricator]

Here's the fuel pressure regulator fitting that I tinkered with this afternoon. It is 100% stainless and will replace the pressure regulator for those that want to run a bigger aftermarket external regulator. If you run dual Wlabro's in tank (and dont want the fuel spike when the second pump turns on), and have stock fuel rail, you can run this as a -6AN to a remote regulator and keep BOTH pumps running all the time, even on the street. IF the single -6AN isn't enough, just tap into the -4AN on the front of the rail and and run to your dual port pressure regulator. (see photo) I can make a fw of them if anyone is interested. There seems to be alot of questions about the flow capabilities of the stock style regulators. This may help some of you. PM me if you want one and I'll figure out what It's worth. It has a .276" ID compared to the stock regulator, which has a .174" ID in the return tube. The stock fuel rail port for the regulator is a .257" ID. So, you might need to run both fuel lines (see photo) if you have a BIG pump set-up. (The -4 hose on the fuel rail is not the right style fitting, I just slipped it together for a photo representation)

 

[GNVYUS 1]

AHAHAHAH, I knew I should of emailed you 3 months ago when I was screwing around with this issue. I could not get a 120 or 90 degree fitting to fit in the reg and then screw on my hose end fitting for my -6 return line. It keep getting hung up in the intake. I would of ditched the stock reg if I knew you had this.
I eventually found a few items to make it work though.

By the way, another nice addition to the custom GN fabbed list of parts you made.

 

[PowerKraus]

I like ! And I suggest one more tip. Drill out(enlarge) the fuel opening in the fuel rail, so the fuel flow does not get congested at the fuel rail inlet - there at the regulator 'port'. You can see an example of the smaller hole you need to enlarge in your second picture from the bottom, as I beleive, the hole there, shown in the picture, is the same size (smaller than that of your 'new' fitting) when it 'meets' the fuelrail. Specfically, make the 'innerds' -6 size, internally, throughout the entire fuel passage/rail inlet.

Let us know !

 

[87we410877]

Like said above, make sure your regulator is also the size of a -6 (5/16") internally. Theres no point in a -6 line if you have a -4 outlet in the fuel rail, a step down in the line at any fittings, or a small fitting on the tank. Im going through this headach right now.

 

[turbofabricator]

I'll have to check the durability and safety of enlarging the fuel rail port. The biggest restriction is the pressure regulator. The internal passage is only .174" in diameter. Some have drilled this out. If that works for you, then save your bucks. I just though that this might help a few of you folks. I don't do this for a living. There has been alot of interest in the "thingy", so I will have the parts made at a production shop. I will also increase the diameter of the part that slides into the fuel rail to help make it safer, and prevent an O-ring blow-out. It held 125 psi as it is, but better is better. Here's what it'll look like. I just used an aluminum sleeve for the prototype, but the final version will be all stainless.

 

[cruzn57]

I sent a PM

I want one!
thanks

 

[Robert Wilson]

Dr. Booster,
Here is the solution I used. Using a billet stock style regulator, I first enlarged the outlet hole to .234" (6.0mm). I then screwed in a -6 90 degree 1/4" pipe thread fitting and had it TIG welded to seal it.

 

[Scott Atk]

Robert beat me to it. That is exactly what I did. I cut about 1/4" off the fitting, it will screw in a couple of threads even though the bottom of the regulator is not 1/4"NPT, orient it however you want then finish it with TIG.
I run dual in tanks pumps full time without problems.

 

[GNVYUS 1]

I don't have those skills so I used the poor mans method, fitting into fitting.

Auto Meter Metric Adapters: ATM-2267 - summitracing.com
( 14mm x 1.5 male to female 1/8th npt )

Russell AN to NPT Adapter Fittings: RUS-660831 - summitracing.com
( 1/8 npt male to 90 degree -6an male )

That did the job, which was easy after hours of finding out what fittings would work. No one makes a 90 degree 14mmx1.5 to -6 fitting.

Even though it goes through the -6 return line, it still has to travel through that tiny return orifice in the stock regulator. I like the idea of drilling it out and even better, using Turbofabricators new return fitting.

If I ever convert the GN to E85, I will go Turbofabricators route.

 

[turbofabricator]

Nothing wrong with drilling out the aftermarket regulators if they can handle an increase in diameter with-out causing a safety problem (it IS fuel after all) If you are planning on running an external regulator and don't want to buy aftermaket rails then this is why I developed the fitting. It's just an easier way to get fuel out of the rail with out welding. On my car, I fabbed the fuel rails from a FWD 3.8 rail and installed -6 on inlet and outlet side. But, most folks don't have a TIG welder in their garage. I'm not making any money on this deal, it was something I figured some of you could use. Buying stainless material in small quantities, is a little pricey. I figured about 4-5 pople might need it, but there has been more interest than I thought, so I'm going to "tool-up" and get a production run going. If anyone else wants to make them, go for it. This isn't my profession. I just like solving problems that some people don't have the tools or abilities to do. Here's how it "should" be done. But if you don't want to cut up your fuel rail, then you have to find a way to maximize the flow out of the rail with high flow pump(s).

 

[PowerKraus]

<<don't want to buy aftermaket rails then this is why I developed the fitting. It's just an easier way to get fuel out of the rail with out welding.>>

Sure is a solution. so let us know when you can produce a few and how much. Thanks!

 

[turbofabricator]

Here's the latest version, now available. It's still 100% stainless steel, but has a .500" body for better O-ring back-up.
Also, Northern Auto Parts has a billet 2 port regulator for EFI for $68.00 (naparts.com) for those that want to have an external regulator. I'm sure it's Chinese, but so are the cranks most guys are running today. It's made by "Professional Products" Part number 10670 for blue and 10671 for clear aluminum. Professional Products Online

Is anyone interested in a COMPLETE bolt in kit for a double pumper, braided stainless -6AN (or-8AN)from tank to stock rail and -6AN from rail to dual port regulator to stock supply line?
(-6AN is good up to 600+HP.) The stock fuel lines neck down to .253" in five (5) places before it gets into the fuel rail. Note: -6AN is .294", -8AN is .392" inside diameter. The stock regulator has a .174" (.184" in Accufab one) id in the stand pipe that ALL the returned fuel must pass through. IF there is enough interest, I'll work on pricing. This would only be needed for cars that are running 10.50's or quicker, as slower than that, the single Walbro 340 is fine.

 

[PowerKraus]

Really, this is an improvement that I think many would benefit from, including the low 11sec crowd. I am sure you agree, it is the horsepower needing this support. I would bet there are several 10sec cars running behind an 11sec driver and suspension.

I am interested, but price 'may' become an issue. The additional upgrades you mentioned on running new fuel lines is great. BUT for pricing reasons, I suggest you offer the parts 'al le carte'...so one can pick and choose the items.

Personally, I think it is great and cost effective for us who will keep our stock fuel rail.

This is your deal, just offering suggestions. I'd like you to succeed at bringing this to market.

Thanks. Keep up the good work and keep us posted

 

[vader87]

I am interested!

 

[cruzn57]

I got mine, thank you very much!!

outstanding!!
allows for external fuel press regulator, with stock fuel rails,
and high volume pump, which would over power standard regulator,
Thanks!!

 

[turbofabricator]

Really, this is an improvement that I think many would benefit from, including the low 11sec crowd. I am sure you agree, it is the horsepower needing this support. I would bet there are several 10sec cars running behind an 11sec driver and suspension.

I am interested, but price 'may' become an issue. The additional upgrades you mentioned on running new fuel lines is great. BUT for pricing reasons, I suggest you offer the parts 'al le carte'...so one can pick and choose the items.

Personally, I think it is great and cost effective for us who will keep our stock fuel rail.

This is your deal, just offering suggestions. I'd like you to succeed at bringing this to market.

Thanks. Keep up the good work and keep us posted

The pressure regulator is available from Northern Autoparts (naparts.com) and the fuel lines are available from your local hydraulic supply shop or also from Northern Autoparts, Jegs, Summit. Not hard to make up parts yourself if you want to go at it alone. I "can" make up a complete system if someone wants one. I'm surprised a vendor doesn't already make a complete kit for the Turbo Regal. The demand will be pretty small, for sure. If there are a few people that want a complete system, I could build something. Or, can talk you through what's needed to do it yourself. Only trying to help the few out there, that are having fuel issues with their 10 second or quicker cars. Most guys that have a 10 second Buick do most of the work themselves, and really don't need any help from me. Fuel and brake systems are easy to fabricate, but if you mess up, they both can hurt you.

 

[Dean]

I run dual in tanks pumps full time without problems.

With 2 340s? What did you do at the hanger end? (Asking for a friend.)

Thanks,

 

[Scott Atk]

Dean, There's a pic of the other end in this thread:

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/ge...h/210147-anyone-run-double-pumper-always.html

I also have the battery in the trunk, so the hot-wire harness was simple. No hobbs switch, they both run full time. The relays are triggered off the stock harness.

 

[Dean]

Thanks, Scott.

I'm a bit surprised the stock tubing (kinda pinched) flows enough.