here is how the story goes..the other week i was putting some new welded up heads onto the car..as i was putting the p/s header in i hit hte started a good 3 times by accident making a ton of sparks, i thought nothing of it and put the car back together...took the car out and about for the next week and even raced with no problems..then the following night i was just dribing normal and hit some bumpy roads and the car shut off but all the exterior lights were working fine. i reach under the car ot make sure the battery cable did not hit the dp but it was fine. i then went under the hood and started playing with the wires going down to the starter..with the key on as a wiggled the wires the interior light and everything else would go on and off...as i looked down a saw the when i put the header in i must have tugged on one of the fusible links going to the starter...i could not fit under the car so i ahd a buddy go slice the end of the wire, put a new wire on and just wrap it around the battery cable at the starter so i can get it back home, i do taht and it fires right up. off i go until about 5 miles down the road it stalls out the same way, i look under the car and the wire that we put it was melted and broken..now thinking maybe it had to much slack and hit the header we put another wire in the same way and it fired right up. again 5 miles down teh road it stalls out and thats where i called it quits and towed it back home...the wires we used at the time were 18guage thin wires. so i get it back to my garage and snip all the ends off the links and put all new 16guage 9" long fusible links on and start the car up. car runs for 15 minutes that night and no problems idling. the next night i go there and start it up and it runs for about 2 mnutes and stall out the same way with nothing inside working and no power to fuse block. could the fusbile link i used be too small?? i ws under the dash the day before trying to see why my break pedal was squeaking could i have done sonmting to a wire under there?? where does the single red wire i keep burning go to, does it go to the d/s and into the fuse panel?? i have yet to ohm the wire to ground to see if its shorted, am i gonna have to take the whole harness apart to follow this wire?? any ideas or anything you can think of to ask to help figure thius out would be great, thanks guys this is really driving me nuts as i think it started as a loose wire but who knows....
fusible link melted 3 times....need some info, experts!!
- Thread starter 1985GN
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Fried links
This is what you need cost's $92 it's all made up for you. Couldn't find one exactly for an 1985 application might have overlooked it though . Casper's Electronics.. give them a call @ (847) 247-0484 I'm sure they can help you out!
Battery & Extension Cable 1986/1987
Factory positive cable problems, and fuselink problems with the OEM setup prompted us to design this relocation kit. This custom-designed kit provides a convenient junction for the positive battery cable AND relocates the fuse links from the starter stud to the junction box. Red junction box is located near the radiator overflow bottle, and alternator feed, battery cable, MEM connector and fuselinks are placed there at that location. Provides easy access to positive battery connection. Designed to attach to battery in the stock location.
This is what you need cost's $92 it's all made up for you. Couldn't find one exactly for an 1985 application might have overlooked it though . Casper's Electronics.. give them a call @ (847) 247-0484 I'm sure they can help you out!
Battery & Extension Cable 1986/1987
Factory positive cable problems, and fuselink problems with the OEM setup prompted us to design this relocation kit. This custom-designed kit provides a convenient junction for the positive battery cable AND relocates the fuse links from the starter stud to the junction box. Red junction box is located near the radiator overflow bottle, and alternator feed, battery cable, MEM connector and fuselinks are placed there at that location. Provides easy access to positive battery connection. Designed to attach to battery in the stock location.
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fullahotair
Member
- Joined
- Feb 26, 2002
- Messages
- 940
My olds has this problem.... What does the kit above do for you beside relocate the fusible link? maybe i am missing something...
i ended up putting a circuit breaker in mine until i figure out why it keeps burning up. The circuit breaker will trip and reset itself...haven't had many miles since then to see how well it works
Nate
i ended up putting a circuit breaker in mine until i figure out why it keeps burning up. The circuit breaker will trip and reset itself...haven't had many miles since then to see how well it works
Nate
continue burning of redwire
Would give him the "correct wiring fuseable links " and the added length would help "ROUTE" it away from DP/HEADER that Continues to BURN up wires. Don't know why they designed it other then what they said : "because of factory (+) cable problems and fuseable link problems with the OEM system" Sounds like what he has now is hacked up and burnt this would be a nice replacement.
Would give him the "correct wiring fuseable links " and the added length would help "ROUTE" it away from DP/HEADER that Continues to BURN up wires. Don't know why they designed it other then what they said : "because of factory (+) cable problems and fuseable link problems with the OEM system" Sounds like what he has now is hacked up and burnt this would be a nice replacement.
jhanson1750
just a 10th quicker
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2005
- Messages
- 1,114
This is a problem with all GM products. I found the solution wrenching on a dirt track camero years ago. Go get a FORD starter silonoid (sp?). On the ford silonoid there are 2 large terminals wire one to the battery and land all of the wires from the starter with it EXEPT THE PURPLE ONE!!! The purple one goes to the "S" terminal this is the starter wire from the key switch. Now from the other large terminal run a cable to the starter. Here is the key!! Build a jumper that goes from the large lug on the starter to the small one where the purple wire used to go and reinstall the starter. With this arrangement all the wires that used to go down under the exhaust now go to the ford silonoid that you mount on the fender well next to the battery away from all the heat. Then when you hit the key the silonoid closes and sends power to the large terminal on the starter (that used to be hot at all times) and then ,via the jumper, energizes the starter just like when you use the old screwdriver trick. BUT when the key is released the large wire that goes from the silonoid to the starter is dead. Far less possibility for a melted wire to ground out. I have had my 86' wired this way for 3 years now and it works great. Also if you need to "bump" the starter you can do it from under the hood with a jumper wire or a screwdriver (not recommended as it damages the threads on the studs of the silonoid. I will work on a print that I can scan and upload, also some pics of my setup. Jon Hanson
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
- Messages
- 20,988
The only problem with the Ferd system is the mounting was on cheesy inner fenderwell sheet metal that would rot and the thing would flop around and short out. 
Happened on my brothers old Mustang.
Never had a problem with my Buicks, and Olds. with an avg. of one starter change per car.
It's usually bad mechanics (any type) that mess up the GM system.
John at Caspers makes a nice relocation product so you can at least see when they are messed up by someone. 
Happened on my brothers old Mustang.
Never had a problem with my Buicks, and Olds. with an avg. of one starter change per car.
It's usually bad mechanics (any type) that mess up the GM system.
John at Caspers makes a nice relocation product so you can at least see when they are messed up by someone.
