GM EOS Suppliment how much to use?

[Tony Shoaff]

Eos

Thanks for all the replies. Mr. Wells I just found out about this product to. So when I heard it was being discontinued I bought 30 bottles. Then I find out it is good to add when breaking in a motor. After that the wear is already worn and there is nothing that will change that. I will still start adding it just for insurance reasons because the Turbo cars need all that we can give them. Thanks again.

 

[ANDYS87]

Lazaris,

I buy the VSOT in the old bottles. They are labeled 1999 on the back. My Pepboys still carries this. I guess the new formula isnt as good as the old one...figures!

 

[Gary Wells]

Thanks for all the replies. Mr. Wells I just found out about this product to. So when I heard it was being discontinued I bought 30 bottles. Then I find out it is good to add when breaking in a motor. After that the wear is already worn and there is nothing that will change that. I will still start adding it just for insurance reasons because the Turbo cars need all that we can give them. Thanks again.

-----------------------------------
Tony:
A few people call me Gary, but most call me a lot of other names that I won't and / or can't repeat on a parental guideance forum.
It's true that GM EOS does an excellent job added to oil for breaking in a motor, and it is essential for breaking in a cam also but quite a few people add it to the oil for general longitivity purposes for the flat tappet camshafts that are in the turbo Buicks. I think that we need Nick Micale or someone on here more knowledgeable regarding camshaft failure. I only go by what I have read on the turbo Buick forums. I run Mobil1, and now am going to run Mobil 1 10W-30 with a bottle of GM EOS or it's equivalent at every oil & filter change, about 3k miles. Breaking in a motor or a camshaft, I probably would not run Mobil1 due to Nick Micale's & a few others recommendations regarding camshaft & motor break-in failure characteristics. So in general, GM EOS is good for more that just breaking in a motor/camshaft. Quite a few people run it to avoid early camshaft failure, and that is one of the primary reasons that I am going to start using it on my 22K mile turbo-T. Newer cars don't need it and roller camshafts don't need it, but I think that it is still a good failure preventative maintenance practice in general for these cars. HTH

 

[Boost231]

very true what you said. Nick is building me a motor with a flat tappet cam and im going to run whatever he tells me to run. seems like he knows how to make these cams work.

 

[Nick Micale]

My first comment is that the Buick rear-drive V-6 in the T-R's is 1960's in design, technology, metallurgy and production. To bring it into this century and compare it with current production engines and their care and servicing is not logical.

Another consideration is how YOUR build is going to be used. A stock engine and a race engine are 2 completely different builds, as is the compromise build - i.e. street/strip.

Then there is the fact that no one in over 20 years has been able to show me [and others] any tangable benefit of using synthetic oil in a turbo Buick engine?

I have seen many high mileage, 150K+ turbo cars that never used synthetic oil, and even the turbos were original.

Of the hundreds of Buick motors we have done over the past years [numbering close to 400], only 2 of the flat tappet cammed ones have gone bad. Both these owners used Mobil I after break-in. Since the cam companies will not honor flat tappet cam with problems when used with any synthetic oil, neither will we.

Cam wear is only one of the potential wear problems in our engines. Cylinder wear can also be an issue. The synthetics with their high detergent content, low EP additives and much less ability to cling to metal surfaces over short periods, are other reasons we do not use them.


From our experiences with race engines, it it usually a broken part the requires dis-assembly, not an oiling issue unless a rod is hammered, or bearing clearance was too tight, or inadaquate oiling. Many times the rings and bearings look like new, and we can tell by the oily feel, regular oil and an additive has been used. This has been seen many time by the local engines we have freshened over the years.

We break in a fresh engine usually with 10-30 and a bottle of EOS for 30 minutes to 50 miles depending on the build and final use. We then use Valvoline racing oil [20-50 for track use and street in the summer] with 1/2 bottle of EOS and do this at every oil change - be it after 10 runs for a race car or 3000 miles for a street driver.

 

[Gary Wells]

Thanks, Nick, interesting info for sure. Maybe I will get away from Mobil1 sometime in the near future.

 

[Boost231]

nick thanks for posting that. now i dont have to ask you when i pick my motor up but i still will

 

[GSX-PKV]

Thanks Nick for the great advice. When Pete Barton of ANS built my motor for my TType a few years ago, he also advised against using synthetic oil... but me being a dope I ignored that advice after break-in (I thought it would free up a few more ponies). From now on, no more Mobil 1 for any of my cars. Paul

 

[my85grandnation]

Isn't BG MOA just as good???

I know a guy that works for BG and he says that MOA has the same additives in it that the EOS does as well as some others so technically it is better. That is what I have been running in all my cars. I use it and Mobil 1 both.

 

[Boost231]

nick what do we do when we can no longer get EOS? are you using GM EOS or another type?

 

[my85grandnation]

nick what do we do when we can no longer get EOS? are you using GM EOS or another type?

You can use BG's MOA. It has the same additives as the EOS with some other extras that make it a little bit better than the EOS I think.

 

[Boost231]

thanks for the info. i got to see what nick says since he is building my motor.

 

[Gary Wells]

I would never go against Nick's, or any good turbo Buick motor builders advice unless something contrary was set in stone. If you have enough faith in them to build a motor, you should have enough faith in them to heed their advice. Down the road a little I will probably go to the non-street legal and so identified on each bottle Valvoline Racing oil & possibly GM EOS depending upon what Valvo Racing oil contains in the way of ZDDP at that time. Definitely thanks for the info from all, especially Nick Micale who has many years of turbo Buick motor building and racing experience.

 

[Tony Shoaff]

Thanks Nick and Gary plus others.

I will be adding the EOS from here on out. 20-50 Valvoline all my life. thanks again. by the way Nick! Headers are doing just fine. Now NOS on the way so I have the same boost every launch. They have caught on to the less time/ less boost. Slower car. Numbers not close enough. Always trying to WIN. thanks again to everyones help. Tony Shoaff :smile:

 

[lazaris]

Lazaris,

I buy the VSOT in the old bottles. They are labeled 1999 on the back. My Pepboys still carries this. I guess the new formula isnt as good as the old one...figures!

I'll have to check the PepBoys by me to see if they have it.
The original VSOT was a real good one.
By the way, people that are suggesting lower zinc levels are only effecting flat tappets and only need to run a roller to avoid wear should consider its effect in areas like the thrust bearing. Its another area that can see high load...........