Going to look at a TTA this weekend!


May 24, 2001
Its a low mi(11k) TTA in pristine condition(from what the owner says). Other then the obvious what should I definetly look for on the car and where are the vin #s located on the block,trans,ect.

TTop car with him being the 3rd owner and it does have some mods- turbo, DP, inj, conv, shift kit
Just want to cover all bases before laying down the $'s on it.
There should also be matching VIN#s on the rear hatch lid and hood on a decal near the latch, I think they are also on the doors as well. See if it comes with all of the original owner's kit, decals, keychain, leather pouch for manual, tape, window decal, etc, as well as the embels that may or may not be already on the car, these were in the owners kits not installed on some cars.
Also, Ttop covers, insert panels for the t-tops to keep the sun out that are the same color as the interior. And under the hood, the original 20th Anniv spark plug wires, they will have 20th Anniversary printed on them, these are rare and worth several hunder bucks if in good shape. If they are still on the car, take them off as soon as you get it cause they are irreplacable unless wanting to spend a load of $$..
Not sure on the location of the VIN on motor, guess I never looked, i thinks its either on the back ledge facing up or at the front of the motor below one of the heads, cant remember where it is on the GN, but I would think its the same.
I think the block shows the VIN on the right side, on an ear which serves as a support for the tranny, next to the firewall, under the heater box (need a lift to see it). You can see that ear under the "3.8L" mark on the "side" view here.

Also check the rear spoiler for condition (cracks).

The paint on the car turns yellow, sometimes at different rates. It can be cleaned with a clay bar.

There are a couple other parts stamped "20th Anniversary TTA", the Serpentine belt I believe and prolly some others -my car doesn't have any of the original rubber under the hood.

The original exhaust tips are not always there.

The intercooler scoop is just like the plug wires, check its condition. Antenna works?

What happened to the original parts removed for mods?

There is a thread on VIN stamps here

Just off the top of my head....Good Luck :)
In order for you to get to the serial number on the block you'll need a lift. it is below the wiper motor on an ear of the block pointing towards the fender. I would at all cost also do a compression and leakdown test of the cylinders before any money changed hands. Tranny should have TAF tag on it. Doors will have vin stickers under hatch below the brake light. As well as all the stuff amready covered.
Look at the rear spoiler see if it has any cracks. You will find what look like surface cracks on the top side and on the bottom were the spoiler meets the body. The ones on the bottom are not repairable. You can not get an original spoiler from GM anymore ($2200 when last sold) and would have to use the reproduction fiberglass one (~400.00 plus paint and prep).

Get all (original) take off parts.

Get the owners kit (Pontiac, Indy 500 Decals, Key fob, owners manual cover, cassette tape and of course the box which holds all of it). These kits are worth about $500.00 now.

- Dave
I'm making a list of all the places that the vin #'s on to check, he says all original parts come with it including orig tires and I'm also making a list for those parts.
Has the owners kit and the decals are on the car.
Says the wing has no cracks, and the scoop is in good condition.
TTop shades come with the car along with a lexan & glass TTop sets.
Will see about doing the leakdown test also.

? Is there anyone specific that makes a good replacement rear wing? Would it be worth taking off the original one before it starts cracking? Is there anything you can do to prevent it from cracking?

The Spoiler can be found at: http://www.gtautoacc.net/

I has been my experience, once the spoiler gets removed it breaks the original seal and more prone to water penitrating (from rain or washing) and causing the attachment bolts to "wick" the water up in the spoiler and start the rusting. It is the rusting which leads to cracking. If it is ok, I would not remove it and be very carefull not to let water sit around the spoiler base very long.

As far as cracks on the top, try not to push on it when closing the rear hatch. Pull the hatch down with the base of the hatch and not the rear spoiler. Try to avoid anything that may cause alot of flex in it. Such as rubbing out the paint by hand instead of using a buffer on it.

- Dave
Originally posted by davege
Try to avoid anything that may cause alot of flex in it.
Such as driving fast :D couldn't resist...I see you're a Trans Am freak too Dave!
Does doing 140+mph count as flex on the spoiler :D ?

I look forward to this time of year evry year Pitchers and catchers report for spring traing in 4 weeks and that means the spring is right around the corner! :D