Going to put up a new building......

[JOHNDEEREGN]

Have room for maybe 40 x 42. We have been looking at a Morton and a Cleary vs having a local guy build one.

What are the pro's and con's of either?

Also, what do you wish you "would have done" if you have built one?

We will have a office space /get together room with a shop that will be heated and a/c.....

Give me your idea's,

Thanks in advance,

 

[dynoman]

I plan on a new 30'x45' garage in the next year or so. The 2 things I'm planning on are roof trusses that will support a second floor with clear span underneath and a radiant heated floor. A friend just built his with the heavier trusses (32'x 40') and they were not too much more than standard trusses. The floor is real nice in the winter (depending on where you live), you don't get that cold layer of air when your working near the floor. I listed those because you can't go back and add them later. A small room for the compressor to keep it quiet would be nice. Sam

 

[regan j]

Depending on what you will use the building for, floor drains can be very nice. HTH. John.

 

[Bruce Urie]

Just make it big enough for my Grand National and Corvettes....you can have the rest of the area for whatever you need, Ty. It's great to have friends like you....thanks.:tongue:

Bruce '87 Grand National

 

[JOHNDEEREGN]

I plan on a new 30'x45' garage in the next year or so. The 2 things I'm planning on are roof trusses that will support a second floor with clear span underneath and a radiant heated floor. A friend just built his with the heavier trusses (32'x 40') and they were not too much more than standard trusses. The floor is real nice in the winter (depending on where you live), you don't get that cold layer of air when your working near the floor. I listed those because you can't go back and add them later. A small room for the compressor to keep it quiet would be nice. Sam

Never thought of that Sam, Thanks!

Depending on what you will use the building for, floor drains can be very nice. HTH. John.

You read my mind, thanks John!

Just make it big enough for my Grand National and Corvettes....you can have the rest of the area for whatever you need, Ty. It's great to have friends like you....thanks.:tongue:

Bruce '87 Grand National

I already have a spot saved just for you :biggrin: Those "exercise" miles can be brutal on rear tires

 

[gnxtc2]

Go atleast with a 14' ceiling height.

What ever size you decide on, double it.

Put extra concrete where you plan on putting a lift. Go 6" mininum concrete thickness. Have your concrete contractor keep smoothing out the concrete until sparks shoot of it. You'll get a polished concrete look.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

[Phoneguy]

Bathroom with a small shower and a slop sink for washing up. Built in cooler with wall mount tapper :biggrin:. Buried 1 1/2" schedule 80 PVC pipe to the house with 2 Cat 6 cables for internet(0ne for a spare), RG6 for Cable TV, Cat 3 for telephone. AC outlets every 6'. Wired for security during construction.

Bryan

 

[rmar]

And the biggest electrical service that you can get....Within reason....

 

[charlief1]

Everyone has made some good points, but beware of the polished surface concrete. If the shops warm and the ground's cold it will sweat and get really slippery. Been there done that a few times and it can hurt if you walk to fast on the surface.

 

[Rivical]

I wonder if the problem Charlie and I have noticed with sweaty concrete would be cleared up if we'd have wrapped the building with tyvek or just visqueen under the siding

Otherwise, my only regret is the 12' ceiling. I could really use 14' even though it seemed a waste at the time!

Mines a wood polebarn. I like wood construction because it's easier to modify and add to than steel. A local lumber co makes kits with all clear yellow pine for less than the cheapo HD, Lowe's, etc. Did the drains, the radiant floor, plumbing, seperate office and compressor rooms, even a low ceiling work area in the back where it gets toasty! All I could add for you then, is to plan ahead! Make sure you take lots of pics or make an exacting map of everything in that floor before pouring the concrete! Drilling an anchor bolt hole for the lift into a run of the floor piping would REALLY suck!

 

[dynoman]

Speaking of electrical , I wired a shop last year that had 3 220v receptacles for a welder around the shop, plus an exhaust fan . Also zone your lights to multiple switches so you don't have to turn them all on if not needed. If your installing a lift make sure that the overhead door track goes high enough so you can open the door with cars on the lift (I had to raise mine , 12' rafters with 8' door track ). I'm sure I'll think of more .:biggrin: Sam

 

[charlief1]

From what I've seen a sweaty floor is because of temp differences. What you might be able to do is run a line around the edge of the building under the concrete and have a recirculating pump hooked up to a water heater. It would be some what of a radiant heater for the concrete which would keep it at a more constant temp and cut down on the sweating issue. Maybe 1 foot off the wall and don't put it where a heavy object is going to sit.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

A plastic liner under the concrete will stop the moisture leaching thru the concrete.
As for the Morton, etc... Do a search for problems w/ them. A contractor can really screw them up with a bad install...Leaks under the walls, etc.
LOTS of insulation, too. My 30 x 30 x12' has a bunch. I have a heat pump.. Usual monthly bill for yrly avg is <$50/mo. 200A service w/ a 40 space panel takes care of the power.

 

[Rivical]

Well, my floor is visqueened under 2" of insulation board below the concete for the radiant heating. The sweaty 'dew' on the floor comes in the dampness of late spring when I've already got the floor heat off. I figured I might be able to leave the ceiling fans on, as they dry it off eventually anyways by circulating the air. But I wondered if it was caused by moisture coming thru the walls to begin with? I filled in between the post's with 2x6's and R-19 in the OSB faced, painted walls. I caulked the panel seams and along the floor too. So it's probly the temp diff in moist conditions.

Oh, btw, I'm thinking of using a 80gal. water heater with the boiler pump to circulate the floor along with the home brewed wood boiler that's only burning when I go out there. Any thoughts on that someone or myself could benefit from?

I had to think my lighting zones thru 3-times before I got to where I like it best. I also have the 220V outlets placed throughout for the welders 50A, and others like tablesaw, mill, lathe etc, 30A with lower amp disconnect's at the source for some. I use a seperate disconnect on the far wall from the panel to feed that side of the shop's 220V welder outlets. So yeah Ty, you also need to be thinking about equipment placement in conjunction with the heating and electrical supply routes before you build so moving in with go smoothly.

 

[streetwavesauto]

First - I recommend checking out garagejournal.com - great site.

I built a 40 x 40 about 3 years ago now. I am happy with the size but I gotta tell ya - it fills up darn quick. I can fit 8 cars in the garage but it gets snug. If I were to do it again I would make it a little wide to support a workbench / shelving / toolspace area without sacrificing space for the cars. I went with 10' walls and a truss roof. I don't remember what the pitch is but it gets pretty high up there. I was able to put in a lift. It fits closer to the pitch than the wall. I would go with a little taller wall next time. Add a second story to the garage either for extra space or just storage. I built a small loft on mine but it's not enough.

On the garage doors I recommend tall and wide. I did 3 doors total. all 16wide x 10tall. These fit nicely on the building. Two are directly in line with each other for a direct drive through. Just remember that everything gets pretty pricy when ya get bigger. The floor coating is one of those things. Sherwin Williams sells this stuff called Shark Grip or Shark Bite or something like that. I added it to some sealer and sealed the floor. Has held up pretty well and rarely do I break my neck.

Sorry for rambling - if ya have any other questions just holler.

 

[t-typinator]

Some really nice pics of all these buildings + options would really help his cause,AND mine too when it comes time.
A walk down pit area,could be a possibility also,though it takes up some room + could be tough to do depending on your location.
I would also suggest Googling: Garages,or Outbuildings etc. for more ideas.

 

[rmar]

Some really nice pics of all these buildings + options would really help his cause,AND mine too when it comes time.
A walk down pit area,could be a possibility also,though it takes up some room.

He would just fill it up with water and make a giant Jacuzzi....

 

[t-typinator]

He would just fill it up with water and make a giant Jacuzzi....

Then he could relax while working on the underneith of his vehicles.

 

[cruzn57]

me too!

plan on starting in the next month,
I'm doing 40x60 10 ft walls, clear span trusses, (15ft clearance) 16x10 doors, on each side of the building (drive thru)
when you pore the concrete, include one or more tie downs (a loop to padlock your trailer,)

one thing I suggest, lots and lots of electrical outlets, at 48 to 60 in from the ground.
and the lights on individual circuits , only turn on what you need,
water spigots near all doors, and air line drops near the doors too.
make sure you have a sub panel with breakers in the garage , don't need to be running up to the house
to shut off or reset breakers.
tire racks, built off the ground, to store the unused ones,
way to many work benches, as you will fill them quickly!
lots of storage shelves, all over the shop.

 

[JOHNDEEREGN]

Wow I need to get to reading to catch up on all the great ideas...... I will wait of course until 5 pm when I get off work :biggrin: