Boostian
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I was told never run these cars below 1/4 tank if you can help it, and NEVER get on it that low.
From my iPhone
From my iPhone
Going to turn the boost up, need some quick advice
- Thread starter BARRACUDA1968
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I use 1/2 tank to be safe but that seems to be more than half empty at that time; about 6 gallons left. Probably depends on the sender but no reason to run a car hard with low fuel; especially with bad pickup placement like TRs have.
BARRACUDA1968
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That's great advice! I kind of wondered about trying to tune the way I was doing it. Loose tires and shifting gear has to mess up the readings. I went home after filling it with gas and managed to fall asleep in my chair so didn't do any more adjustments. It's hot and humid here today so not sure if I have the best weather.
I will say this; my car likes the fuel! I probably only attained 1 or 2 boost in my adjustment but I did add 5% fuel in second and third. I took 5% away in 1st, not sure if I feel any difference there but the car definitely pulls harder on a roll squeezing the pedal. Seems to spool quicker too.
The thing that has me a little curious is sometimes it will boost to 20/21 like it's supposed to and other times just to 18. Maybe just normal or maybe it was my low fuel condition. Just thought I'd mention it.
I'm going to turn the screw a couple more this after noon and try it again, this time the way you guy's mentioned.
I will say this; my car likes the fuel! I probably only attained 1 or 2 boost in my adjustment but I did add 5% fuel in second and third. I took 5% away in 1st, not sure if I feel any difference there but the car definitely pulls harder on a roll squeezing the pedal. Seems to spool quicker too.
The thing that has me a little curious is sometimes it will boost to 20/21 like it's supposed to and other times just to 18. Maybe just normal or maybe it was my low fuel condition. Just thought I'd mention it.
I'm going to turn the screw a couple more this after noon and try it again, this time the way you guy's mentioned.
Notes:
1) I get the feeling you're getting a little too "boost happy." Slow down: You need to go in small increments, especially if you're seeing knock anywhere. A Powerlogger with wideband tracking in this case would put you miles ahead. You could go back and look at 1st/2nd gear AFR and would be able to tell if any recorded knock was happening due to wheel spin or gear changes (and a plethora of other things, i.e., injector duty cycle, RPMs, etc, etc.). This would help determine if you are seeing true knock. Either way, any knock should be considered real until proven otherwise.
2) What octane are you running? 91? 92? 93 or higher? This could limit boost potential. If the car was dynoed with 93 and you're only running 91.....(self-explanatory).
3) I would bump the alky knob to at least "6" and perhaps all the way to "8." You can always work your way down once you get a better handle on things. The extra alky spraying from "5.5" versus "6+" isn't a drastic amount but it will buy you a little more in the way of knock suppression.
3) I would roll into the throttle a little easier and eliminate wheel hop and tire spin as potential knock events. Just make sure you are WOT in 3rd and check your recall function thereafter.
4) One turn on the wastegate rod is equal to 360* as others have mentioned. You can put a set of pliers or a crescent wrench behind the nut on the wastegate rod and use that to pull the rod onto the puck arm.
5) Is the original fuel tank in the car? Our cars have baffles to help reduce the chances of the pump getting uncovered. Either way, never a good idea to romp on it with a tank anywhere lower than 1/4 full...and even that is iffy.
1) I get the feeling you're getting a little too "boost happy." Slow down: You need to go in small increments, especially if you're seeing knock anywhere. A Powerlogger with wideband tracking in this case would put you miles ahead. You could go back and look at 1st/2nd gear AFR and would be able to tell if any recorded knock was happening due to wheel spin or gear changes (and a plethora of other things, i.e., injector duty cycle, RPMs, etc, etc.). This would help determine if you are seeing true knock. Either way, any knock should be considered real until proven otherwise.
2) What octane are you running? 91? 92? 93 or higher? This could limit boost potential. If the car was dynoed with 93 and you're only running 91.....(self-explanatory).
3) I would bump the alky knob to at least "6" and perhaps all the way to "8." You can always work your way down once you get a better handle on things. The extra alky spraying from "5.5" versus "6+" isn't a drastic amount but it will buy you a little more in the way of knock suppression.
3) I would roll into the throttle a little easier and eliminate wheel hop and tire spin as potential knock events. Just make sure you are WOT in 3rd and check your recall function thereafter.
4) One turn on the wastegate rod is equal to 360* as others have mentioned. You can put a set of pliers or a crescent wrench behind the nut on the wastegate rod and use that to pull the rod onto the puck arm.
5) Is the original fuel tank in the car? Our cars have baffles to help reduce the chances of the pump getting uncovered. Either way, never a good idea to romp on it with a tank anywhere lower than 1/4 full...and even that is iffy.
Boostian
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BARRACUDA1968
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I had the rod turned in 5 full turns and then I read this comment before I left and it made me a little nervous. The previous owner had notes that 6 turns equaled 24/25 boost and now that I looked back at his notes he was running 100 octane on the dyno as well. I'm running 93 right now.
So I went back to the car and lengthened the rod 1 full turn. Added 8% fuel and lowered the timing 1 degree in 3rd and 4th. I figured this would give me a little room.
I went out on the 4 lane bypass and turned the akly up to 6. Made my run and had 1.2 knock at 101 mph. I think that is when I let off the gas maybe? I have a AVC GNX dash and the VDO tach is pretty lazy so I really can't tell you what rpm's I was at going 101 mph but it was close to 5000. It works good sometimes and other times it doesn't.
Turned the alky up to 8 and made 4 more runs. Car pulled good and zero knock. Total boost was 22/23. This time I shifted to 4th after the run.
I wanted to do some 1st gear roles and see how it felt but my alky light came on so I was done for the day. I went through almost a whole tank of alky yesterday. I only have maybe a gallon left that I got with the car so I need to find a place to buy it.
When I did the 3rd gear pulls I could smell it. Never could before.
Thanks for the advice 87geeinn! I was being cautious but better to be over cautious then lifting the heads. I'm glad you guy's told me how to tune on the street because I was doing it wrong and would have wasted a lot of time with bad results.
I'm going to read up on the power loggers today and will probably get one. If I'm going to ever get this car high 10's I'm going to need the data.
With only 1.2kr, I'd try the alky at 6.5. Small changes makes big differences. You want just enough to kill the knock and anything after that is a waste. You adjust the AFR with the gas settings in the chip. Glad it's running well for you though!
BARRACUDA1968
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It was very hot and humid yesterday so some cooler air should help. I'll take your advice on the alky next time.
What mph at 5000 rpm's with a 275/60 should I be at? No lock up.
What mph at 5000 rpm's with a 275/60 should I be at? No lock up.
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