Has any one done a stock 14 bolt block-heads?

The Swede

-89 TTA 7 sec car
Joined
Jul 13, 2001
Hi all!

Sitting here and looking at the block and heads and 1 of my 2 remaining braincells told me that; hey swede.... maybe you can do some machine work and mount 6 more studs on the heads to keep them in a straight line on the block.

Has any one out there done this earlier?
 
You would need a stage 2 block that has the extra holes,
OR, at least a stage 1 block that has the meat and area for the extra studs, but need to be drilled and tapped.
 
Yeah right, i know how the stage 2 are constructed.

And a stage 1 how are they constructed?

I was thinking about to machine down the brackets for the rocker arm shafts and drill a hole through there and then machine new brackets for the rocker arm.

On the exhaust side there should be ok to do some welding and then drill there.

But you tell me that there isn't enough materia on the deck side of the block?
That can be fixed i guess....?

What to do when you wanna go fast and your pockets are empty?;)
 
The stage 1 blocks have areas setup for the upper and lower extra bolts/studs, but have to be drilled and tapped.

It sounds like you want to drill the heads for the extra bolt holes also.
NOPE. cant be done. You'd be drilling right into the water jacket. 14 bolt heads are specially built for it.

Sorry, you want 14 bolts/studs, you'll need the heads and block for it.
 
Originally posted by TurboDave
The stage 1 blocks have areas setup for the upper and lower extra bolts/studs, but have to be drilled and tapped.

It sounds like you want to drill the heads for the extra bolt holes also.
NOPE. cant be done. You'd be drilling right into the water jacket. 14 bolt heads are specially built for it.

Sorry, you want 14 bolts/studs, you'll need the heads and block for it.

It could be done..but it'd be a pain in the azz. :) On the heads, I'd mill off the rocker stands, drill and sleeve the extra inboard holes, drill for stud style or Jesel rockers. On the outboard holes, use Jason Cramer's stock block head clamp and spot face your iron heads to take the adjuster screws.

On the block, you'd need to either weld extra material on to drill and tap, or mill a flat spot and drill and tap the side of the valley for a bolt on boss. Send me a bunch of money, and I'll try it for you... ;)
 
can you weld the block in the areas where the stage 1 and 2 have extra meat.
since people are making lots of hp with stock blocks it would be
nice to keep the head down and turn up the boost.
 
Originally posted by KendallF
On the outboard holes, use Jason Cramer's stock block head clamp and spot face your iron heads to take the adjuster screws.

This Jason Cramer head clamp, what is that?
Any pic of it? If not, please describe as good as you can.
Where can i purchase one?

Thank you!
 
Originally posted by JOHNZAZA
can you weld the block in the areas where the stage 1 and 2 have extra meat.
since people are making lots of hp with stock blocks it would be
nice to keep the head down and turn up the boost.

I know of at least one person who's tried it. It would be labor intensive and sort of a gamble..probably only worth it if you have the resources to do the work yourself and a lot of free time on your hands. :)

Originally posted by The Swede
This Jason Cramer head clamp, what is that?
Any pic of it? If not, please describe as good as you can.
Where can i purchase one?

Thank you!

http://www.rjcracing.com/RJC_Buick_Products/Stock_Block_Head_Clamp/stock_block_head_clamp.html

It's a pretty good idea; a reinforcement that fits around the protruding bosses at the front and back of the block near the top of the deck. It has set screws that fit in the unused outer bolt holes on the heads and tighten down, clamping the head at the bottom. I have heard from a couple of people that they require some fitment (translation: grinding!) depending on the headers and block variances.
 
Originally posted by JOHNZAZA
can you weld the block in the areas where the stage 1 and 2 have extra meat.
Someone has welded up a 109 block to use the extra 6 bolt holes per head. A picture of it was posted on one of the other BBs. Whether or not it will hold up is yet to be seen.

BTW, the Stage I and Stage II (early) blocks are the same casting. The difference is in the machining done to the block.:cool:
 
KendallF, thanks alot for the link!

Scott, can you remember where you saw that pic and thread?

This is starting to get very interesting now!:cool:
 
wondering if you got that pic. I think im goin to try to machine a stock block at accept the extra bolt holes. Weld on some material
and drill and tap to help hold down the head.
 
Hey kendall i that your block. If so can you give me some info on how you modified it. Any info would be great.

Thnks alot
 
Originally posted by KendallF
14 bolt 109 block

Yes, I know where it is...no, it hasn't been completed or tested. ;)

Wow! That's a lot of welding on the block.... what is the specs on the "welding sticks" just normal cheap stock for cast iron or some special for welding in blocks?
 
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