Has anyone repaired or attempted to repair rot under back window?

spotweld cutter

ha ha ha thats funny I am sorry "We dont know you but we just don't like you "that would be a joke we wanted to see how many hole someone would put in their own car another joke ha ha.

I am sorry for confusion Glad you posted those picks spot cutter will only allow 1st layer of metal to be cut away unless you force it and the pilot should be 1st layer also the hole ends up in removed parts and when you put back your doner part in place, the hole line up to the old spotweld their by you just clamp and spot back in and no hole, lead over hole, prim and 3M seam seal and looks like new
 
It would have been hilarious! I kept thinking to myself "there has to be a better way...."
 
will talk to gm today on zinchrome, willie is in maryland, are you going to sandblast your trunk and rear seat pan to clean up the rust oneverything? or whats your plan
 
also with water damage (rust ) have you checked down inside your rear wheel wells in trunk alot of rust forms in there to cause rear qtrs to rot out from inside out funny till you statred trying to fill all those holes
 
zinc primer sold by GM

Cam talk to GM today they do sale here is GM part number 19257664

However it it distributed by lps labs there web site is LPS Labs: MRO Solutions, Lubricants, Greases, Degreasers & Cleaners
search rust inhibitors called zinc-x parts number 05616
ph#1800-241-8334
tucker Ga

it's cosidered a primer product and comes in 14 oz spray can

My guy at GM says stuff is awsome and really holds up just as a prime but painting over would last forever just his opinion been a chief Mech/tech for over 30 years

just a thought
 
haven't used zinc-x myself, however might be wrong but wasn't any color from what I was told but apparently it's suppost to be real good base product to prevent rust.
Not that GM impresses me
I 've used zinchromate(peuck green} for year from on hand stock, I aquired for a couple of project.

but I haven't found anymore, any body know where to get it these days
 
cam
tried both styles of cutters that a nice set if you pre drill pilot it seems it will work ok I found the other cutter the numbers I gave you easier to use and a little more forgiving of my amature status

but it will work for the purpose required
did you get your parts yet
 
Well I'll take your advice on the cutter for sure. I got my parts from Brian at Gbody this week, he's fast! What do you use to reseal the seems again? A lot of the black stuff that's been there from the factory is brittle and damaged on this car
 
sealer

cam all that factory stuff you want to scrap off in the interior, trunk any seams you can get to.
if you have a paint and body store you can get 3M brand seam sealer (Qrt or Gal can} after you scrape all the loose stuff you take rolox disk or wire wheel (soft) and go over every seam to clean up any rust or loose materials

You have to decided at this point what your going to do about your rust areas in and outside the trunk sand,grind or sand/soda blast those areas once you remove your rust areas then take metal prep (home depot paint department Follow directions} then use acid etch primer on all bare metal and seams let dry

Now at this point you can do one of two things apply your seam sealer or spray effected area with expoxy primer I use dlp 90 but your call eastwood has some good stuff to let dry then apply seam sealer

The parts you got in you need to prep them (clean)real well acid prime and then epoxy prim once installed they will be repreped where required

after all this then everything will be painted with factory finish color
 
st1nger said:
then use acid etch primer on all bare metal and seams let dry

Now at this point you can do one of two things apply your seam sealer or spray effected area with expoxy primer I use dlp 90 but your call eastwood has some good stuff to let dry then apply seam sealer

The parts you got in you need to prep them (clean)real well acid prime and then epoxy prim once installed they will be repreped where required

...
Click to expand...

Etch primer under epoxy? Contradicts convention doesn't it?
 
epoxy as a top coat sealer don't see why a problem had no reactive problems, acid bites the metal epoxy seals it and good base for seam sealer and interior paint to stick to

rust is these cars nightmare trunk and trunk wheel well especially,they need all the protection they can get!!!!!!

besides what I did worked for me, what I did or would suggest is just that "a suggestion" I 'am not the duty expert most of them will chime in when they get the urge

I go with my reserch and the results that was achived again not the expert just one amature trying to help someone who is in the same boat

Navy been using dual primers for years on their boats seems to work for them

I come from the old school: the thing can look pretty but if it dont drive its just a yard ornament, if the prep and base aren't everything then the pretty top won't be for long
just saying..............
 
I think the argument is not that epoxy isn't a good sealer, just questioning the use of etch primer aka acid/lacquer under something that has such superb adhesion as epoxy does on it's own? But I've been known to swim upstream myself :)
 
as I have floated down the new river feet up stream The acid etch was to cover my prepped metal as soon as it was clean and dry epoxy was to seal the car maybe over kill I figured it couldn't hurt rust is these cars nightmare

expert by no means but will give anything a try once scuba dived in the far east and australia climb over the sides of large sea going vessels, jumped out of perfectly good airplanes and heliocopter, driven the roads of so Wva, white water rafted the new river and the colorado river, ran the Marine corps marathon and I say this with a straight face those thing are nothing compared to block sanding and painting my car thatscares me lol
 
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