Head stud seepage

[HellOnWheels]

I've tried the GM coolant tabs (5) to stop the coolant seepage from around the ARP head studs and so far it hasn't worked.

Anyone see a problem with removing ONE stud at a time, apply new thread sealer then re-torque to present torque??

All opinions/experiences appreciated!

HellOnWheels

 

[turbo6randy]

I did that on the one head stud that was seeping coolant on my car, without any problems.

 

[KWIKR 1]

Anyone ever use Hylomar on head bolts ?

 

[Intercooler]

I used a generous amount of GM thread sealer on my 3.8 build. I haven't fired it yet but I always add seal-tabs too. You are making me scared! I have always used #2 Permatex (non-hardening) with zero leaks before. Being the experimenter I am I gave this a whirl to see if I could get some leaks I think if I do run into any problems I will use tried and proven #2. Describe your install method....

 

[HellOnWheels]

Intercooler,

Single GM steel shim headgasket, using Permatex clear silicone (per Lawrence Conley) torqued to 75 ft.lbs (using correct sequence), then re-torqued to 80 ft. lbs. after a couple heat cycles with NO boost applied.

HellOnWheels

 

[Intercooler]

Originally posted by HellOnWheels
Intercooler,

Single GM steel shim headgasket, using Permatex clear silicone (per Lawrence Conley) torqued to 75 ft.lbs (using correct sequence), then re-torqued to 80 ft. lbs. after a couple heat cycles with NO boost applied.

HellOnWheels

The ARP spec is 85 ft. lbs. Also it is best to do steps 20, 40, 60, 80 etc.. until final. Did you clean the threads with a tap prior? I imagine that silicone will work but I don't know for sure. Did you install the studs hand tight only? Hard to tell.

 

[HellOnWheels]

Re: Re: Head stud seepage

Originally posted by Intercooler
The ARP spec is 85 ft. lbs. Also it is best to do steps 20, 40, 60, 80 etc.. until final. Did you clean the threads with a tap prior? I imagine that silicone will work but I don't know for sure. Did you install the studs hand tight only? Hard to tell.

All threads were cleaned using a bottoming tap, nuts were torqued in proper sequence, using ARP Moly Assembly Lube (70 ft lbs), and studs were installed hand tight only.

HellOnWheels

 

[turbov6joe]

My pop and myself included have had this weeping/leaking problem numerous times in the past. I tried pulling the headstuds out 1 at a time and re-torquing, no problems there. I typically use the white Permatex thread sealer with teflon applied LIBERLY, and in most cases have had good luck with seeping. My pop's motor; however, was a different story. No matter how much sealer we used, it seemed that at least 1 headstud would seep/leak. Finally after a few tabs of Bars Leaks, the seeping has ceased for the time being. Make dern sure that the threads are VERY clean, a generous amount of sealer makes it down the threads, and hope for the best. For some strange reason this problem never existed with head bolts??? Good luck to ya!

 

[Squirley87]

It does and did happen with bolts on my car. Only thing is I didn't catch it in time and it already started to peel the blue crap off of the fel-pro gackets. Now I am going to the stock gaskets and more sealant.

 

[TurboDave]

I wish Buick had done to their iron blocks what Buick Motorsports did to these Buick Indy blocks I got laying around here.

All the head stud/bolt holes are blind. None penetrate into the water jacket.

 

[camino70]

What is seeping?

I have an idea, but I am having a problem that I didn't have before or didn't notice. I have the car up on stands in the front to pull the oil pan and while I was under it started to intermittently drip on me. Water was dripping from the above the starter and running down off of it?

Is this seeping?

TIA