Headgasket installation with Studs

BEATAV8

The Engine Whisperer
Feb 14, 2002
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you need to put the heads on, torque them and then once you reach the final torque specs, walk away for 3 or 4 hours and then come back and retorque them again. Retorqueing after a heat cycle is not necessary.
I think Jay is right.
I installed my heads on the stand, multi-step sequence. Came back several days later and re-torqued on the stand

After a few heat cycles on the car, I again re-torqued and the nuts did not move. Click click every time.....

This was with GN1's and Cometics w/ copper spray.
 

turbox-tech

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Dec 7, 2011
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I'm installing Cometic gaskets and ARP studs this weekend and have read numerous threads. I have cleaned the COmetics, know about the addition of extra washers to the mid length studs, and will be using Hylomar and the re torque. One question I do have is would you recommend a Ultra black silicone skim coat around the Oil holes and coolant holes?
thnks in advance
 

turbo nasty

Turbo Dojo / MNTR
Jul 19, 2001
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Wouldnt hurt but do it btween the layers as well but not too much where it will quish out and block flow. Oil seepage is very common with the cometics
 

BIGPSI

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i did my cometic's dry per the web site,heat cycled them in car twice with no antifreeze and they are great, no problems. everyone has their own way of doing them .i also re torqued them on the engine stand the next day
 

turbox-tech

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Very true BIGPSI! Just trying to see what has worked and what has not worked. I really worry about adding silicone to the oil/water passeges for uneven gasket sealing.
Thanks
 

Race Jace

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I'm installing Cometic gaskets and ARP studs this weekend and have read numerous threads. I have cleaned the COmetics, know about the addition of extra washers to the mid length studs, and will be using Hylomar and the re torque. One question I do have is would you recommend a Ultra black silicone skim coat around the Oil holes and coolant holes?
thnks in advance
We have done lots of motors with the cometics. anything that has a larger bore than a 3.840 or if we can use all 14 bolts we use the cometics. Being a shop a oil or water leak can make or break a whole build. So what we do with those is good old cooper coat on all surfaces. it is the ends that you need to worry about. it never seems to leak at the top or lower outer coolant passages. just the ends seem to leak oil and water. Also someone mentioned that no need to put sealant between the layers. From out experience this is exactly where it leaks from. it doesnt seem to leak between the gasket and block or head it seems to leak between the layers. It does not hurt a thing to do it so why take the risk and try to be one of the few guys that has put them together dry and not had a leak. We have never seen them not leak dry.

hope this helps.
 

turbox-tech

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We have done lots of motors with the cometics. anything that has a larger bore than a 3.840 or if we can use all 14 bolts we use the cometics. Being a shop a oil or water leak can make or break a whole build. So what we do with those is good old cooper coat on all surfaces. it is the ends that you need to worry about. it never seems to leak at the top or lower outer coolant passages. just the ends seem to leak oil and water. Also someone mentioned that no need to put sealant between the layers. From out experience this is exactly where it leaks from. it doesnt seem to leak between the gasket and block or head it seems to leak between the layers. It does not hurt a thing to do it so why take the risk and try to be one of the few guys that has put them together dry and not had a leak. We have never seen them not leak dry.

hope this helps.
Thanks so much Race Jace!! :) So basically you only use copper spray between all layers and no silicone? How close is the copper spray compared to the Hylomar ? Also, a little bit of something everyone may want to try for a cleaner is the Por15 "Marine Clean"...this stuff is the shit and is Enviro Friendly (which made me wonder) but it works miracles with a scotch pad! :)
 

Race Jace

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yes that is correct where they leak oil is the oil gets between the layers on each end where the oil from the head drains back into the valley area. so pay attention to sealing here. where they leak cooland it on each end where the coolant transfers from the block to the head passage so pay attention in this area for coolant.

again if you are using 8 bolts to hold the head on and your bore is 3.840 or smaller then the RJC gaskets are the best. seals combustion at least as good as cometics without any of the issues.
 

turbox-tech

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Thanks again guys for the info. Got the heads bolted on, studs done , and valvetrain setup. Then I was looking over some port work and noticed one cometic gasket was different from the other. The center "steel" shim was flipped over over on one side. If I remember correctly the heads do not matter which side and this also goes for the gaskets being flipped. I also noticed they run one crush ring down and two up (3 layer) ?? Cometic said it did not matter which way it was mounted? Sorry for the confusion
 

procharlie

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Oct 9, 2005
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I know this is a pretty old thread, but I am in the process of replacing head gaskets on my '87 TurboT. I am using new GM bolts and original GM/Victor gaskets I got from GSCA. My only question is what to use for sealing the bolt threads. I had heard the Loctite 562 was good so I got some, but now read that 567 is better. Also JayC said use teflon paste, which I also have some. Ultra Black Permatex (I assume that is the silicone RTV) was mentioned also and I have some of that. Does it matter which I use for a car using probably no more than 20 psi boost?
Any comments are appreciated.
 

procharlie

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Oct 9, 2005
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I almost forgot I have another question: is there any sealant I could/should put on the head gaskets? The heads were re-surfaced but the block is still in the car and has some small pitting around areas where the old Felpro 1000 gaskets had holes, etc. I cleaned up the block surface with some 340 sandpaper on a gauge block, but some of the small pits still show up.
 

TexasT

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Sep 10, 2002
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While I am sure them methods described above all work well an old timer turned me on to this stuff when I built my first BBB455. I have used it ever since and it hasn't let me down. It is an excellent thread sealer and i have fastened countless heads and front cover assemblies where the bolts go into the water jacket. I just use it on the male threads. Trying to do the females as posted above might work, but I wouldn't do it as too much sealer can keep the fastener from fully engaging the threads.

http://www.permatex.com/images/stories/virtuemart/product/20539.jpg
 

windshearalert

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Feb 10, 2009
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BadAssGN is very correct. I work a an Aviation Technician/Avionics. Some parts cleaners in spray cans are NOT what you want to use when cleaning a surface for any type of gaskets. Brake Cleaners will leave a residue that can effect the adhesion of parts. They actually have certain "lubricating" petroleum additives.
We found this out when having to replace CFM56 jet engine fire loops. Mechs had been cleaning contacts with spray type cleaners and induced false "Fire" warnings weeks or months after the connectors were reseated. The fix was to remove the connectors and clean with pure acetone and dry with nitrogen before tightening the connectors.

The cleanest surface you will ever get will be with electrical contact cleaner or Pure Acetone. If rag is dirty - keep cleaning!
 

turbo nasty

Turbo Dojo / MNTR
Jul 19, 2001
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I second this and have found the same. Last hg set I did I cleaned the deck with elec contact cleaner and have used electric motor cleaner as well.
Just make sure it isn't the lubricating formulas
 

gn4u2c

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GM thread sealant, CRC red can electronic cleaner and new white cloths that have been washed first. Victor gaskets on a stock or mild build cometics when you want the bottom end to give before the head gaskets. Always chase block if using bolts.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 

etriebe

Active Member
Dec 2, 2008
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Does anyone have pics on this, I am ready to go put my heads on and don't know how much to use. Do I just smear it all over?


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TurboSmart

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Nov 6, 2013
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I am doing this shortly.

Where do I purchase the RJC headgasket?

How many gasket the kit includes?

My engine is in the car, with heater and AC, with studs with allen centers

Do I need to machine the heads/block to use these?
 
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