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help 84 gn no spark injector pulse

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Make sure you have 12v power to both pink/black wires in the connector, along with both of the gray/red wires. This applies to the 1985 wiring. Also, be sure the crank sensor slot interrupter wheel is furthest from the connector of the sensor.

Don't assume your sensors are good; if they were plugged into and powered up in a mis-wired system, you run the risk of killing a new sensor.

Don't assume the connector is properly contacting the coil module. I have seen MANY defective CCCI connectors that ohm out perfectly, yet don't make adequate contact to the pins in the module.

Finally, be sure the module is a good, OEM GM module.
pink and black wires have 12v and grey and red wires have 12v. also crank sensor is in correct slot and has .010 gap on each side so its right. also it has a new control module and coil back all parts are oem/gm. my car does not have a factory alarm it was ordered with out one and it does not have a aftermarket alarm either just to add so theres no doubt that there is a problem with a security system. what should i do now?
 
Make sure you have 12v power to both pink/black wires in the connector, along with both of the gray/red wires. This applies to the 1985 wiring. Also, be sure the crank sensor slot interrupter wheel is furthest from the connector of the sensor.

Don't assume your sensors are good; if they were plugged into and powered up in a mis-wired system, you run the risk of killing a new sensor.

Don't assume the connector is properly contacting the coil module. I have seen MANY defective CCCI connectors that ohm out perfectly, yet don't make adequate contact to the pins in the module.

Finally, be sure the module is a good, OEM GM module.
correction only one black and pink wire had 12v. the other did not which goes to a6 at ecm so i rechecked fuses and there good and have 12v going through them. i know a6 goes to the ing fuse and splices off to the ccci and mass air and other sensors so i knew that was why it was not cranking, so i installed a jumper to a6 and it fires up for 2 seconds and dies but hey it least it cranks! so i guess there must be a broken or shorted wire from the fuse to a6 before the splice its not blowing fuses so it"s not hitting ground but i will have to look into that but my question now is why is it starting and dieing after 2 seconds. my fuel pump is running and i jumpered the fuel pump test port just to make sure it was running while the engine was running and the fuel rail is pressurized i broke my fuel pressure tester so i will have to buy another one. the thing is it ran fine before that ignition connector was taken out so i just wonder if there's a sensor blown or something i have no clue what to do now with this issue.
 
Cranking means the starter turns the engine. Running is when it runs on its own.
Look at fuel pressure when it does run, and check to see that it stays consistent during the running. If the fuel pressure falls off, the engine won't stay running.

You might consider replacing your ignition switch. That's another factor that can cause a "no run" condition.
 
Cranking means the starter turns the engine. Running is when it runs on its own.
Look at fuel pressure when it does run, and check to see that it stays consistent during the running. If the fuel pressure falls off, the engine won't stay running.

You might consider replacing your ignition switch. That's another factor that can cause a "no run" condition.
problem solved found pink and black wire with a crappy splice barley connected above glovebox area going to a6 at ecm repaired it and it fired right up and runs good now. its just crazy it was running fine until my buddy took that pigtail out and then thats when it would not start after that and the wire just happens to come loose from the splice at the same time thats just nuts to me. so, anyways one bad crankshaft position sensor and a loose wire at a6 plus one week of cursing the car = TURBO TIME!! Thanks to John Spina for all the help!!!!!!!!!
 
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