Help Baer ss4

[dynoman]

Will tell you what I did. Was told I was being too easy with my brakes, and the pads got hard. So I got the car up to 60-70 mph and slam on the brakes like a naked women ran out in front of me. Did this six or seven times over two three days. Squealing is gone

Mine started to squeal a little even after the pad change to "softer" pads , but don't now after getting on them hard slowing down from 129 mph at Bowling Green .

 

[1952ray]

Mine started to squeal a little even after the pad change to "softer" pads , but don't now after getting on them hard slowing down from 129 mph at Bowling Green .

Glad to hear that, as I'm sure at a 129 you wanted to slow down quickly. This fix ( getting on the brakes hard ) came from Richard Clarks garage.

 

[Team Canada]

I have the same baer kit on all 4 wheels and did have squeaking after the brakes heated up. Probably 5-10 minutes of normal city driving. I found the paperwork that came with the brakes and followed the instructions on how to bed the pads and now have quiet brakes. Wake up early on the weekend and get on a stretch of road that will allow you some high speed stops. It takes a few days if I remember right, as you need to cool them right off and then do another cycle. But the part about not being able to spin the wheels needs addressing first. You might just have a coincidence of two issues on your hands.

 

[WHITE T]

Hey guys,

Sorry.. I haven't had much time to get one here lately!

Seems like we have a couple concerns:
1) Noise
2) Dragging brakes

We put a high friction pad in these systems, we do this because lets be honest... the cars are heavy and FAST. What we have found is for street driving (non aggressive) they make more noise than some would like. This also follows driving style (i.e. people that brake lighter tend to get more noise). Usually noise is found at low speeds right before the end of a stop.

We do have a different street pad, that is a lower friction (MU point), but keep in mind this would not be recommended for racing. The high temps the pad will see causes the pads to break down, and can cause pad taper (which in a small caliper like this) can cause piston cocking/sticking.

So.. with that being said, if the brakes are hung up, first crack the bleeder. Does it retract? If it does this is being held up with hydraulic pressure, check push rod length to master cylinder. If it is something different, like the caliper is froze and pistons will not retract we need to work with you to figure out why. Was the system assembled on modified stock spindles by Baer, or were they hand modified, is the caliper centered, what pads etc.

Please if anybody has an issues, contact me direct at RickE@baer.com. We are proud of the parts we build, and we want our customers to be happy. We have LOTS of these systems out there, with many happy customers.

Thanks guys!
Rick

 

[gnpower6]

Just a thought, did you put a new proportioning valve on? Is it plumbed correctly?

 

[TurboSlacker]

I recently installed the SS4 Baer front brakes on modified stock spindles from Baer. They came with DR1-C ceramic pads. Running GTA 16" wheels and stock powermaster.

Initially, the rotors spun freely without wheels mounted as well as after proper torquing lugs nuts. No problems. Then after Day 3 of seasoning the rotors and just before the pad bedding procedure, both front wheels formed strong drag and no longer able to rotate tires by hand.

I believe that I overheated the pads. Will try to fix by replacing all the caliper piston seals and of course new pads.

Won't be able to report results for a few months. Swapping brake system to aftermarket hydroboost which is 5 weeks out for build completion.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

 

[Jasper]

I've talked to baer and they said that the squealing is a problem they've had with the ss4s. They have new pads that are supposed to help with the noise but they haven't been tested. I can't help but feel ripped off. I'll be going back to the stock brakes and buying new spindles since I like the stock rims. I would not recommend baer ss4s to anyone

 

[scot w.]

I've talked to baer and they said that the squealing is a problem they've had with the ss4s. They have new pads that are supposed to help with the noise but they haven't been tested. I can't help but feel ripped off. I'll be going back to the stock brakes and buying new spindles since I like the stock rims. I would not recommend baer ss4s to anyone

The squealing has been explained by Rick from BAER a few posts up. The pads that are shipped with the SS4 system are more aggressive cause lets face it, these cars are heavy & Fast. They offer another pad that is more for street driving.

Plus I might add that if the brake system WAS NOT bedded in properly they will squeal ....

 

[Jasper]

I've bedded 4 different sets of pads. They have all squealed over time. It was explained to me that this has been a problem with the baer ss4's. No pad is going to stop/prevent this noise. Trust me I've spent two years trouble shooting these pads with baer and the best GN guys in my area. In fact everyone I've talked to that has tried these has had the same problem.

 

[scot w.]

I've bedded 4 different sets of pads. They have all squealed over time. It was explained to me that this has been a problem with the baer ss4's. No pad is going to stop/prevent this noise. Trust me I've spent two years trouble shooting these pads with baer and the best GN guys in my area. In fact everyone I've talked to that has tried these has had the same problem.

The squeal comes from pad to rotor contact, Not the brake system it's self... My white T-Type did not do that and or recent customer Richard Townsends car does not do it and we both have SS4 rear brakes... One thing not mentioned was the rotors, Did you try turning your rear rotors down just to clean them up? That is a possibility also....(What is your area?) and who has looked at the brakes? I wish you were closer so I could look at the car personally... The bedding process is always a grey area cause each person does it differently, some work some don't....

 

[Chuck Leeper]

A couple ??'s from a "brake novice".
How can a solid mounted, shimmed caliper be expected to track true, on a rotor, that may be on a spindle that doesn't run dead on 90* to the face of the pads? Maybe, that's why the stock calipers "float"?
Would uneven pad pressure across the faces, cause this noise? IE: the rotor faces are tapered, the caliper piston are operating at an angle?
I was involved in this same issue with the famous Vega brk noise problem @ GM. [Ya, I'm old.. deal w/ it!]

We tried:
Soaking the pads in ?
Cutting grooves thru the pads.
Beveling the edges.
Changing m/c bore sizes.
Changing rotor finish.

Bottom line. Some were "cured", others not so much.

Back under my inj bench...

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Sorry, more bullshit w/ the line thru...

 

[scot w.]

Chuck,

On Dicks car the front was squealing but not the rear SS4's so on the front he replaced the rotors and re bedded them in and the squealing quit. What we think happened was that the shop up in Michigan who installed the front bedded them in wrong and "Glazed" the rotors over... I mentioned to him he didn't have to buy new rotors to just have them turned down to remove the glazing. Well now he has a spare set of rotors! LOL

 

[Jasper]

I have them in the front, still running drums in the rear. I've had the brakes set at a perfect 90 and they would work fine for the first week or so. Then they would start to squeal after they would heat up. After 2 to 3 weeks the car would become deafening. I followed the bedding process to a T as recommended by baer. I talked to abunch of reps and had 3 different GN mechanics try to figure out why they are doing this. One of the guys talked to Rick P and was told that this has been a problem for more than one customer. Also another mechanic contacted a guy with a t-type at baer and said pretty much the same thing. The final recommendation was to change my pads. This was not a real solution to me since I've tried 4 sets of pads, new callipers, new hydroboost, new brake lines, new rotors, and machined rotors not to mention all the hours on labour. During this process I've lost my brakes due to seized pistons, melted my centre caps, bubbled the paint off my rims, and embarrassed myself at cruises. Now I have a huge hole in my pocket and the mechanics have thrown in the towel.

 

[CS99]

The squeal comes from pad to rotor contact, Not the brake system it's self... My white T-Type did not do that and or recent customer Richard Townsends car does not do it and we both have SS4 rear brakes... One thing not mentioned was the rotors, Did you try turning your rear rotors down just to clean them up? That is a possibility also....(What is your area?) and who has looked at the brakes? I wish you were closer so I could look at the car personally... The bedding process is always a grey area cause each person does it differently, some work some don't....

Scott, your full of shit. Baer ss4 brakes suck ass
I fought the noise on those god damn things for months. My new WILWOOD brakes don't make any noise !¡!!

 

['87 Turbo "T"]

BAM!!!!

A hot zinger to a thread no one has posted on in…….7-1/2 years!!

ZING POW!!

 

[CS99]

BAM!!!!

A hot zinger to a thread no one has posted on in…….7-1/2 years!!

ZING POW!!

Didnt see that it was old

 

['87 Turbo "T"]

Didnt see that it was old

Just bustin’ balls !!

 

[TType85]

Had the SS4's on my car, squealed like mad no matter what. Ended up going over to a C5/C6 Vette setup instead. I needed new spindles and CPP sold a set of spindles that take the C5/C6 brakes and hubs. Funny thing is I sold them and I think the car they went on didn't have the squeal issue.

 

[Chuck Leeper]