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Junior Samples

Walk Away
Joined
Aug 3, 2007
Messages
5,294
Build my car

My budget $500.00 per month for the next 9 months (May) for a total of $4500.00
As far as power is concerned IM not looking for silly, lets say low 12's, after all it is dial up horsepower.

First purchase’s were knock guage , boost, adjust fuel reg with gauge and scanmaster

This month I got my Walbro and hotwire to take care of fuel delivery , Cash left over.
Next Ive ordered my 3inch downpipe and my exhaust 2.5
Ins N outs are done….

That should put me into Oct for my next purchase's which should be what?

SIZE="1"](Please note: I’ll be running 42#rs and so far a stock turbo but upgrade to what?. Also I will swapping out head gaskets for the RJC ones for a peace of mind, But with that in mind parts come off and parts go back on)[/SIZE]

Thanx
Mike
 
If it's just motor mods that your doing and you are looking for low 12's, then you will come in under budget. I would get a good set of irons and bolts if you are taking the heads off. Step up the turbo, convertor, cold air and a good chip. Have fun and take you time.
 
i agree if your pulling the heads you might as well do them while there off. other then that a powerlogger and a LC-1 should be on the top of the list. As far as a turbo a GT6152E and a good converter will work well.
 
re

I have a 2800 stall in car now, guess i should have mentioned, also mild cam #107 from poston, eaton posi.

I will for sure go through the heads but i guess what i was looking for in terms of response's on this post was pros and cons of different gadgets

example... i dont want to buy somthing like tps calibrator if somthing else does the same thing.

i want to do it smart in an organized fashion but i got the turbo # and will start checking

thanks Boost

mike
 
42.5 injectors are alright but I would spend the money for some 60s from Fullthrottle.com. You will have some room if you decide to go faster. If you by a turbo, always go a little larger than what you think will work. I'm telling you, you will want to go faster and it bites to have to buy parts twice. 12s are cool but 11s, then 10s are better.
 
Vader

arnt the 60's low impede? and how to mod ecm? new drivers er somthin?..ive read also 30 amp fuse etc but havent looked much because i was gonna do the 42#s

So for one this winter i'll remove heads and go through em although fresh 2000k rebuild, the car had sat and i really dont trust someone else's work whom I dont know so when I pull the heads off, I might find glazing on cylinder walls and rubbed down cam but I'll cross the when I get to it.

I'd like to have Steve do the throttlebody but then its only 62mm max with OEM.

So heres the fork in the road...I need help deciding what I want..lol
low 12's are safe and impressive on the street.
Once I cross that line into low 11's on down things break... like my wallet.

So I really need to keep a number in mind and stick with it and then gather up the list from members who respond such as..

buy the prologger? upgrade my maf? purchase the new
Illudium p38 space modulator and proceed to blow up the earth so forth and so on.

Thanks Brent

Mike
 
Heay Mike 60lbers are high impedence so no mods to the drivers in the processor. Good luck Jon Hanson
 
Heay Mike 60lbers are high impedence so no mods to the drivers in the processor. Good luck Jon Hanson

Yep and they are very street friendly. You will not be dissatisified! As for 11s, Mine ran mid elevens all day and no problems. Actually I have dipped into the tens but I am sure I am flurting with dissaster!
 
Plus get a good fuel pump. No need for aftermarket headers. You can make good power for what your looking for without killing your wallet.
 
IMHO the "magic" in these cars is not so much the parts that you put on them, but how well you can tune (it's not hard) the combo. The stock throttle body, and headers will be fine. Best bang for the buck would be MT drag radials, and Razor's alky. The more time you spend learning to tune, the more you'll enjoy the performance of your car.
 
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