Ain't the same if it's not a turbo6
Help me build a decent GN
- Thread starter Slix
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Slix is right, period.
Put that stuff in an '82 Regal, or a '79 Camaro or a '92 Corvette..... cars that needed help when they came off of the assembly line. Please don't desecrate an intercooled Turbo Regal, there are plenty of other cars out there that should get that treatment.
Jus' sayin'.
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chris kirk
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Haha...... Maybe so, but how long is that gonna last ya. And for what, so you can go out drinkin in a corn field somewhere with you buddies and get wasted.....cause I dont see a whole lotta fun in that.
You can buy a brand new LS motor right out of the create for $7-8K, (maybe cheaper) put in a 4L80E for about $3K, make a few modification to the motor, bolt on a 76mm turbo and run low 9s.... And you'd still be able to drive it to the beach every year with the old lady and the booger eatin brats..... Oh, and not have to worrying about the old lady killin ya if it doesn't start..... or worse, making it there and back......
Good, fast, and cheap. Pick two.
Look, it's nothing personal! I'm happy there's people out there that like nostalgia. But, when I think of nostalgia, I think of old/unreliable. Something that belongs behind a roped off area in a local volunteer fire co. house......
I've experienced first hand how expensive these v6 parts are and how long you have to wait for them, as I'm sure many of you have. And don't think just because people aren't sayin it, they aint thinkin it ", I should have done an LS motor! Because they are.....
Just had this discussion today with Dale Cherry from Injection Connection. He did a complete LSX motor with a SC that's making 1300 hp for about $22K. A complete motor. I don't know what it's going into and I don't care. That's pretty serious power for a pretty good price. And just like he said, this guy could drive it to work every day like it were VW, then blast it down the track every weekend for manya years to come. When it comes to nostalgia, no thank you. Wouldn't take the Apollo 13 to the moon.
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It's like arguing about religion or politics. Nobody will ever agree. I just like keeping the original engines that my cars came with. Also you can do reliable, fast and cheap. Just take your time and find good deals.
BlackonBlack
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you have to get the car up to snuff to handle the power.you turn the boost up with a chip and good octane and the trans will get hurt.address the trans, then fuel system, and a small turbo and run boost in the 25 psi range and you will have a fun 11 sec combo with a good tire.
would you like a real answer to that question?it might surprise you.understand i see/race all this stuff run and guess what none of it is lasts forever.
a bbc with a small shot can be done for around the same brand new and a few of my friends have done it cheaper.also a friend of mine has a small block that made around 1600 for less than 22-25k.im not biased to any setup as i have seen all of them make power and go through there lifespan.the reality is your going to spend if you want 1000+hp.
they def can they become a pia at that level though more specifically the flanges
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Ya'll think he's got a 9 hiding somewhere in his new street build?
marleyskater420
still needs to learn
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So before I get into my response too far, here are us at RPS's personal car builds, and some of our customer's as well. I would suggest taking a look through each of them and see if you notice anything that everyone (or just about everyone) had done in their builds, and then take a look at what each build seems to be for, and what mods they are choosing to do in order to accomplish that. Link: https://www.boostedrps.com/customer-s-rides
If I was you I would create a multi-point list of areas you wish to address on the car, and what your goals and budgets are for those respective areas.
For example, if you look at my build page on our site: https://www.boostedrps.com/tyler you will see I break the build into different section; *Engine
*Engine Mangement
*Turbo System
*Fuel System
*Suspension-both Front and Rear.
Reason for that is that in order to have a fast-as in 9 second- street car that is reliable, you WILL need to address something in each of those areas. Some more than others.
I would start with Your;
*Engine
*Turbo System
*Fuel System
I am leaving out Engine Management and Suspension because those things can change as time goes on, or as deals appear on the Part for Sale section or Advertiser Special section.
I would figure out what engine block you want to use to have your engine built with, and use that as your starting point. From there I would locate a good rotating assembly to put in it, along with some billet main caps (just the center two, you don't need the front or rear main caps), and then look for some good cylinder heads as well. If you go aluminum, I would suggest TA SE heads, and having Jeff Bird in Washington do the port work. I can provide you with his number if needed. We also sell TA parts (WE being our company- RPS - our website is www.boostedrps.com ) and a BUNCH of different rotating assembly configurations : https://www.boostedrps.com/rotating-assemblies and we actually are having a special on certain rotating assembly setups, and have 3 of these setups left. We should be receiving our billet main caps come November, which I would add into the mix for your build, and should have a cost of somewhere around $160-$180.
After that, I would look into what your ET goal is. Depending on what percentage this car will be driven on the street vs track, and what your ET goal is, it will have an influence on what turbo we would recommend. Here is a nice list of just SOME of the turbos that we offer: https://www.boostedrps.com/turbos we are the only WORK Turbo vendor for the Buicks, and we have such a strong relationship with WORK, that we are allowed to sell their turbos for a bigger discount than what you would pay if you went direct to WORK. Selecting the right turbo will influence your downpipe selection and boost controller options as well. Your stock headers will work down to the 9s. The main reasons people upgrade their stock headers is; 1) Reduction in backpressure in the exhaust, which also makes the turbo not have to work as hard and reduces the amount of stress and strain on the turbo, 2) Appearance. Visually aftermarket headers just look much better. 3) Swapping to a 4 bolt turbine housing, OR going to an external wastegate setup (compared to an internal wastegate setup like stock) although people DO add external wastegates onto their stock headers. 4) Going to a twin-scroll configuration for the headers, which requires a twin-scroll turbine housing on the turbo as well. This is really used for high performance/high output setups, or people looking for the absolute quickest spooling of their turbo (Borg Warner claims that their twin scroll housing on their EFR turbo helps to reduce the spool up on the turbo by up to 1,000rpm-and that is because of the Twin Scroll housing, NOT their lightweight turbine wheel) and very precise boost control since you have to use 2 wastegates as well (assuming you have properly sized wastegates installed). In case you aren't familiar with them, here is a pic of twin scroll headers. These are my personal set for my Stage 2 header. Notice how the turbine mounting flange for the turbo is divided into 2 sections, and the crossover pipe that comes from the driver's side never meets up with the passenger header? The crossover pipe goes all the way to the turbine flange. Take a look:
Anyway, I hope that gives you an idea of one approach towards assembling a car/engine for your goals. If you have any questions, please call me at 707 362 6030 or email me at 1987GN@gmail.com
-Tyler
At the Bates show, I bought an EGR block-off plate that reads " FUCK YOUR LSX".....
I hope it sparks a conversation or two............ or maybe even a race.
I may or may not remember selling you that piece
no sir.stock will be fine
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