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HELP TA aluminum block to Stage 2 iron won't run

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2lucke4u

New Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2010
Messages
10
please help
we just went from a running TA aluminum block to a Stage 2 iron block using all the parts except the short block,got engine started... sort of...it seems to be running on 2-3 cylinders,appears the crank timing the spark is out of sinc,are the short blocks not compatible or is there a dif in the crank timing like the ls series 24,48 tooth reluctors ? we are stumped,,the ta block had low tension rings and was smoking so nothing broke inside or out,any help would be great,,pm if you must,,thanks
Charles
 
Gotta have spark, fuel and compression happening at the right times for it to run. Take it to the basics.
Are you getting fuel? Are the injectors pulsing, plugs wet? Fp looking good?
Is it sparking? What are you using for timing? Cam sensor set correctly? Crank sensor working? Coil pack good?
Good compression?
Lots of variables when you change that much at once.
 
Deb's car
has fuel and spark,timing of cam to spark appears off due to ???????????? pulling front cover to check timing marks are correct ,checked all connectors for bent pins and such ,120 comp all 6, back to the basics
Charles
 
appears so,but tried it clocked several dif ways to see if it made a dif 45,90,135 degrees ect,it did not,
 
appears so,but tried it clocked several dif ways to see if it made a dif 45,90,135 degrees ect,it did not,

Unfortunately, "appears so" is not an acceptable answer ;)

can you provide more details, ecu and ignition strategy most importantly.
 
should know more details monday,"appears so" as we run two cars and have had them apart for upgrades and rebuilds more times than we can count,put it back together same as always and up popped this glitch,i am only on the crew and will get fine details in the morning,
cars hail from bloomington wi,last weeks tuning run from a roll 10.00 @150mph,had smoking issue so back in the box,car picked up 45mph from the 1/8 to the 1/4, set at 17lbs boost,like i said only a test run,,
charles
 
should know more details monday,"appears so" as we run two cars and have had them apart for upgrades and rebuilds more times than we can count,put it back together same as always and up popped this glitch,i am only on the crew and will get fine details in the morning,
cars hail from bloomington wi,last weeks tuning run from a roll 10.00 @150mph,had smoking issue so back in the box,car picked up 45mph from the 1/8 to the 1/4, set at 17lbs boost,like i said only a test run,,
charles

I understand shit happens, the more info you can provide on the setup will help narrow down possible causes


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Did you re-use the cam from the TA motor in the Stage II motor? The reason I ask is that if the Stage II originally had Stage II heads and the TA motor had production style heads the cam would be wrong because the port layout is different. I don't know if this applies or not to the problem you're having.

Neal
 
Fast XFI and XIM box with LS style coil over plugs,system on car,,,,spark/injector pulse off piston to comp cycle,with finger in the spark plug hole the fuel and spark are both hitting at the same time at the top of compression,the ignition system has not been changed and ran fine on the last pass,we did not use any of the parts from the other block,only the oil system,intake,fuel rails,injectors,and
misc,the fuel and the spark seem to be out of sync but we have both,anyone ever solve a problem like this before??

everybody has days like this but it seems like lots of days like this,,,,,
Charles
 
Fast XFI and XIM box with LS style coil over plugs,system on car,,,,spark/injector pulse off piston to comp cycle,with finger in the spark plug hole the fuel and spark are both hitting at the same time at the top of compression,the ignition system has not been changed and ran fine on the last pass,we did not use any of the parts from the other block,only the oil system,intake,fuel rails,injectors,and
misc,the fuel and the spark seem to be out of sync but we have both,anyone ever solve a problem like this before??

everybody has days like this but it seems like lots of days like this,,,,,
Charles


Maybe the tune was changed from powering down and up? I assume Eric disconnected the battery before changing out the motor. It shouldn't have changed, but I'd be verifying the setup settings. And cam sync and injector pulse can be monitored from the XFI right? I'm new at this FAST stuff.
 
Eric is checking the tune via computer now,also checked the reluctor phasing earlier and it is right on,weird little gremlin we have here,,
Charles
 
Maybe the tune was changed from powering down and up? I assume Eric disconnected the battery before changing out the motor. It shouldn't have changed, but I'd be verifying the setup settings. And cam sync and injector pulse can be monitored from the XFI right? I'm new at this FAST stuff.

yes cam sync will give you cam sensor phasing, its normally 85-95 on stock setups.
 
Didnt Norbs just have simular problems?


how did Norbs fix it? ,what was the gremlin??? did a quick tear down and checked timing components and valve lash,comp checked out 120 per cylinder,cam and crank gear dot to dot no advance/retard with number one piston up on top with both valves closed, have fuel,spark,started it up still runs on two cylinders,seems we also still have a gremlin,,
next step is to remove the complete ignition system and put stock one on to see if one our system is malfunctioning,we have worked with these motors for years and still stumped on this one,,,
Charles
 
Didnt Norbs just have simular problems?


I used the stock GN crank sensor without the module connected and msd distributor, but wired directly to the XFI. This did not work and the timing was random scatter, as I did not use the Cal hartline distributor adapter which has a built in pull up resistor to stabilize the crank signal. In the end I put the module back in, but no coils. The MSD box is fired from the points output on the XFI. I really don;t know much about the XIM, but if you think its a problem try the stock setup and see if it runs.
 
Sounds to me like a bad ground. What did you use to terminate the ignition module? Check pin L on your ignition module. I believe it's the 4th pin out from the left. It's a blk wire. With the ignition on the on position, probe that wire and see if you have a good ground. If, not, splice into it with another wire and ground it to the body of the car ( or firewall). That wire gave me issues before and I had to splice into it and ground it for my car to run properly. Have a look and see.

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thanks norbs/ttypewhite
this is where we are starting,will check this all out and keep you posted,
Charles
 
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