Help with boost

[randy winn]

What controller do you guys use

 

[Ttype6]

Rjc controller

That's a pretty simple controller. It's hard to believe that it is defective. When you had it hooked up,was it installed in a line that went from the boost port on the compressor housing to the actuator and nothing else?

 

[dank GN]

All manual boost controller are just about the same . I’m running a boost leash controller with built in bump box that is really nice but I definitely spent some coin on it . You can get a nice Mac solenoid and wire it up to your stock boost controller wiring and run it off your stock setup if you wanted.

 

[dank GN]

How do you have it plumped? Pics?

 

[randy winn]

I have it plumbed elbow to actuator straight end to turbo housing. its been on the car about two years never made over 21# but I have been going to dragstrip want to turn it up some.

 

[Ttype6]

I have it plumbed elbow to actuator straight end to turbo housing. its been on the car about two years never made over 21# but I have been going to dragstrip want to turn it up some.

Remove the boost controller and blow through both ends to see if air escapes the controller.

 

[V6sleeper]

99.9% of the time its not the controller itself,
its the waste gate hole or the plumbing of the unit, then look into the turbo after that

 

[randy winn]

When I took the controller off the boost went up.

 

[Ttype6]

When I took the controller off the boost went up.

See if you can blow through it in either or both directions.

 

[randy winn]

I can blow through the end with the elbow but there is a small hole in the elbow. I ordered a hallman controller today has anyone used them.

 

[randy winn]

Also what is the purpose of porting the wastegate hole.

 

[berserker6]

I can blow through the end with the elbow but there is a small hole in the elbow. I ordered a hallman controller today has anyone used them.

Yes I use the hallman. For me it's rock steady @ 25lbs. Mounted to valve cover.

 

[Ttype6]

I can blow through the end with the elbow but there is a small hole in the elbow.

If you can't blow through the other end,your controller should be good.
Have you adjusted it in as far as it would go?
How many turns have you put on the wategate actuator adjuster from the point where it will slide onto the wastegate crank without pulling on the rod?

 

[Ttype6]

Also what is the purpose of porting the wastegate hole.

You don't want to do this because it will expose a larger area of the puck to the exhaust pressure which will cause the puck to open. This will limit the amount of boost you can make with your current wategate adjustment. At a certain level,you will have to apply more force from the actuator to keep the puck closed to achieve more boost. No need to do this until you have trouble with over boosting.

 

[Ttype6]

Of course,the most simple thing to do that will give you what you want is too add a straight 1/4" barbed fitting inline between the controller and actuator and drill a hole in it. Then bigger and bigger or more and more holes as needed or 2 or 3 barbed fittings with different sized or numbers of holes to attain different amounts of boost.

 

[randy winn]

Ok first I would like to thank you guys for all the good info. I have the controller turned all the way in and the actuator rod I have to hook up with vise grips. If it's not the controller why did the boost go up when I took it off.

 

[Ttype6]

I have the controller turned all the way in and the actuator rod I have to hook up with vise grips.

If you have an HD actuator and it's turned in that tight,you should be able to make alot of boost. All electronic boost controllers create a controlled air leak so that less and less air pressure acts on the wastegate so it doesn't open as far to create more boost. Even the stock boost solenoid is used to do this. If you create more of a leak to stop some of the boost pressure from acting on the wastegate,your boost pressure will increase. If you use any manual boost controller that doesn't allow for an adjustable air leak,you will get the same results as you are currently getting. It is a very simple solution to install a straight barbed fitting with a hole drilled in it to see what happens or you could install something like this into a tee fitting in the line between the controller and actuator.

https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn...MIj7nN79D24QIVAs-yCh27gQfREAQYHSABEgK06PD_BwE

 

[randy winn]

Ok so I put a new controller on this weekend and the same thing happened. can you explain what what you mean by the barb fitting and drilling holes in it

 

[Ttype6]

Ok so I put a new controller on this weekend and the same thing happened. can you explain what what you mean by the barb fitting and drilling holes in it

You've proven to yourself that boost will rise if you stop the boost signal from getting to the actuator. If you create a controlled leak in the line between your boost controller and actuator,your boost will go up. The drilled barbed fitting is a simple cost effective way to do this,but it isn't adjustable. If you put a needle valve in line like the one in the link I provided,you will be able to adjust the amount of leakage. Turbonetics sells a boost controller that does what I am describing,but it is much more expensive than buying this.

https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tnpla/61233144?cid=ppc-google-New+-+Motion+Control+&+Fluid+Power+-+PLA_sLT2Jr4W9___164110844340_c_S&mkwid=sLT2Jr4W9|dc&pcrid=164110844340&rd=k&product_id=61233144&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIj7nN79D24QIVAs-yCh27gQfREAQYHSABEgK06PD_BwE

Then you could buy 2 of these.

https://www.grainger.com/product/6A...kwcid=AL!2966!3!281741803351!!!g!538496703722!

Then 1 of these to mount it remotely to keep it away from the heat.

https://www.grainger.com/product/13...!?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA?campaignid=175663197

If you wanted to install it close to the turbo,you could use this.

https://fitandcp.com/product/7304-14-barb-tee-w-18-fnpt-adapter/

 

[Ttype6]

Here is a used Turbonetics valve for sale on ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbonetic...124?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10#viTabs_0