HG "secrets"

[turbo buicks]

any special "secrets" or "tricks" that need to be done that arent mentioned on gnttype.org to change a head gasket. if mines blown me and my friend are going to attack this project ourselves. do you use thread sealer on ARP bolts? he has built his engine so i trust him when taking crap apart on mine that he can get it back together and if we run into trouble we can ask his dad

 

[Topjimmy]

Many people are successful at changing head gaskets with the engine in the car. The key here is to completely drain the engine of coolant before yanking the heads. Remove both block expansion plugs when draining the system. If any coolant seeps into the oil passages it will make a beeline for your main journals and eat your bearings on start-up. (Don't ask me how I know this!)

The heater core can drip into the engine with everything apart, you'd be wise to cap the ends off.

Permatex #2 non-hardening sealer on the ARP bolts torqued to 85 lbs. with the stock replacement Felpro Perma-Torque blue gaskets worked for me.

Felpro valley pan gasket installed with the supplied end rails and silicone sealer at the ends per the instructions.

All in all, not a hard job, just a few special procedures needed with these unique engines.

Good Luck! Jim

 

[RealFastV6]

Why would you remove the cam sensor and the timing cover? Just leave 'em on.

 

[TURBO 6]

I've blown a couple hg's and never took out the block expansion plugs. As a matter of fact I have my car down right now changing hg's. The key is to try to keep as much coolant out when you are pulling the heads. When you are done change the oil before you start it, let it run for a couple of minutes and change it again. I've done this many times and never had a problem.

 

[Topjimmy]

Ooops! RealFastV6, thanks for checking!
No reason to remove the cam sensor to change head gaskets. Sorry for any confusion.
Keep the coolant out of the oil galleys!

Jim