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highest Street stall & 4l80e

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LUCKY1313

New Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2006
Messages
74
Hello

What would you guys consider the highest street stall. I dont want something that is slipping around all the time just trying to go somewhere but I would like somewhere around 3200, but 2800-3600 range would be where I want to be & the highest stall I can and still be effective in street driving.

Your probably going to say OK what turbo you running. Well I am fixing to upgrade and will probably size it to work with the converter I get. This is going to a street car but I do want go as fast as I can.



Also anyone ever used a 4l80e trans. I see some running the 400 & this is a electric 400 with overdrive basicly. When running the 400 trans does it seem to take much power away from the little motors.


Jess
 
Bringing this back up to the top so that the ones that know may see it. I am real interested in this 4l80e if it doent kill the power to bad.

I wander if I got the one with all the roller conversion done if it might not add any extra drag at all on the little six engines. It looks like they are one heck of a tranny so even a little loose of power wouldnt be to bad. And having a good strong lockup convertor may get me by on a higher stall than normal & allow me to run a bigger turbo.



Jess
 
4l80e stall

i'm actually in the middle of the swap to install the 4l80e into my buick. the tranny is built complete with modified tail housing, new crossmember and the like. i weighed the old tranny (had 700r4 in the car previously as i couldn't get the 200r4 to last), the difference was 50 lbs without converter. i'm ordering a torque right away and was thinking about the stall as well. i'm going for 3500 stall for my setup with a 3 clutch lockup, controlled by a big stuff 3. i'm sure it will work out even with the gear ratio dropping slightly lower than a 200r4. i found that with the 700r4 the first gear was pretty much useless, it would just get going and be shifting right away, i think the lower gear ratio will let the engine use the power better. old combo went best of 11.52 and have added heads, big stuff 3, and numerous other mods.
 
You know I havnt even looked unto the gear ratios. That sounds good. Although 50lb is alot between trannies in wieght but I guess for it to be beafier to hold up something has to be heavier.

3500 sounds likw a lot of stall for streeet, but with a good luckup clutch it should work out ok. Can you lockup the clutch on these trannies when on a full pull at the track. Is OD strong enough to be used at full power in these trannies. Except for the wieght they do seem to be the best option out there.


Jess
 
i'm told the torque is good for 1600 hp, i asked if the torque could be locked at full throttle when in drive, precision said it could be locked wherever you want. i don't think the added stall affects the street much when you can lock the convertor when you want, if it helps keep the turbo spooled it'll be a good thing. the tranny should easily handle the abuse, the turbo 400 like 4l80e properly built will sustain more power than any 700 or 200 will. the added weight might slow it some and the added internals might lose a bit more hp, but i'd trade it anyday for reliability.
 
Your on to a good idea, but what you want is going to cost around $5000 by the time your done. Ever thought of going with a gear vendors and a turbo 400. The electronics could spell nightmares in that tranny, a few locals around here tried to make them work and they didn't work out well.
 
I think I may have the electronics part covered. With the BS3 it can control the 4L80e, or atleast the one I am getting can. Is this what you are speaking of.

I can get a low miles 4l80e for $500.00 from a friend that has a tranny shop( and might even be able to trade for it). The BS3 is costing about $500.00 extra to have the tranny electronics. Ofcourse we still need a good convertor and I would like to have it rollorized all the way through with some upgrades to go with it(break & better shifting atleast).

With all this being the case I came up with the pricing between the two (4l80e or 400 with GV) being about the same, or atleast close. Not sure which would be best & which one would take the least amount of horsepower to turn but with the 4l80e I do get the option of a good lockup convertor. And I do drive alot of highway miles and sometimes drive 100 plus miles (or even farther) to get to different tracks.


I have given the GV some thought, many have used it with good results & its abiality to handle high horserpower is not in question. They will tell you there self that its limits have not been reached yet so they dont know how much it can handle. So they must be good units. How much horsepower it consumes is a little bit of concern but not enough to over come the fact of which one would work best. The GV does have another good thing going for it & that is the abiality to spit one of your gears on a pass if you wished. I could really see this helping on differnt tracks that hooked better or worse.


Either way its not going to be cheap. But your statment about others having problems and not getting them(4l80e) working has got me wandering now.


Jess
 
It could been many things , wiring issues and programming issues, as you do all the line pressures on the laptop, maybe they used the wrong values. Maybe the BS has a proven setup in it already.

The GV weighs 45 lbs, and takes 1hp to turn for every 400hp in. The fluid has to be changed every 5000 miles. The overal reduction is .78 not .75. You could go with a slip pitch converter. They now make them to take alot of power. Lots of decisions to make...
 
norbs said:
It could been many things , wiring issues and programming issues, as you do all the line pressures on the laptop, maybe they used the wrong values. Maybe the BS has a proven setup in it already.

The GV weighs 45 lbs, and takes 1hp to turn for every 400hp in. The fluid has to be changed every 5000 miles. The overal reduction is .78 not .75. You could go with a slip pitch converter. They now make them to take alot of power. Lots of decisions to make...

Yea I have not run 4l80e or the BS3 yet for that matter. But I was reading where the line pressure is controlled threw your programing. Thats what I was wandering about on that part of it if they was trying to controll it with a ECM or was using switchs and other things like some of the swaps you see. Even with proper control I would guess its not easy to get any of them right & a modulated line pressure would be even more difficult. But there a few I know of that have reported good results with it. But it may be to early to call jugdement on that also, time will tell the whole story.

Is it on this forum, the ones that are having trouble getting it to function right. I could search & see what type problems they are having to get a better idea.



The GV only taking 1hp per 400 hp put into it. That is pretty good for consumption, atleast alot less than I expected. GV is starting to look better all the time.


Slip Pitch convertor? I dont know if I know what this is right off. Maybe I do but know it under a diff description, but it sounds interesting. Is this like a Variable Stall of some type or something else? I seen one company that had what they called VSC and they modulated the Torque convertor pressure to gain more stall out of a tighter convertor, but I havnt seen it in use yet to know its effects or ability. I brought it up on another board/forum but everyone labeled it as junk but they had never run it to even know what it could or couldnt do. I learnd a long time ago to take things that you are being told with a grian of salt. I thought the system had good possibilties but was concerned about it lowering pressure when on the brake to achive its higher stall. This was the point others was making about it, saying they thought it would burn up the trans or come out of the lights real slugish. Or even be like a Stick car and act like you had dumped a clutch.


Jess
 
Its been around a long time, kennebell used to sell them. Its basically a converter that uses a hydraulic piston built in the stator to change the fin angle for different stalls. Some people say they will break, some say they won;t. The newer ones have steel stators instead of aluminium, for more strength. You are looking about $1000 for the converter and front pump. The smallest converters are 11" dia and heavy. Stall ranges can be changed from 2000 rpm to 4000 rpm or higher even on a flick of a switch in the car, on the newer ones. But remember its still not a lockup converter and will slip always a certain percentage.

HEre is an old article you can read more about them

kennebell switch pitch
 
i've heard that the gear vendors unit takes considerable time to shift the splits, making it not very desirable at the track. as far as electronics, some posts mentioned not very reliable control units that were interfering when in operation. i like the idea of having ultimate control of line pressure, shift points, downshift ranges and lock-up function that can gain considerable hp when in lock-up. the skies the limit with proper tuning and getting the line pressures set up properly. as far as price is concerned, i would spend the money to gain reliability, have overdrive availability, and i would say it could be done for less than 5000$. how much do you have to put in for a 400 thats not very useable for all around driving? i'll let you know how its going, i'm only waiting on the torque as we speak. i've also got help from Nolan, very experienced with the electronics end from the syclones/typhoons, it should be interesting :biggrin:
 
snzuloz said:
i've heard that the gear vendors unit takes considerable time to shift the splits, making it not very desirable at the track. as far as electronics, some posts mentioned not very reliable control units that were interfering when in operation. i like the idea of having ultimate control of line pressure, shift points, downshift ranges and lock-up function that can gain considerable hp when in lock-up. the skies the limit with proper tuning and getting the line pressures set up properly. as far as price is concerned, i would spend the money to gain reliability, have overdrive availability, and i would say it could be done for less than 5000$. how much do you have to put in for a 400 thats not very useable for all around driving? i'll let you know how its going, i'm only waiting on the torque as we speak. i've also got help from Nolan, very experienced with the electronics end from the syclones/typhoons, it should be interesting :biggrin:


I agree on liking the ability to have control over all the fuctions. If done right it suggest the possibility of going fast by being able to taylor the trans to the power band of the engine with the best of drivability. That is if it all can be controlled properly & I dont see any reason why it couldnt be.

But just so I understand, you are saying that the post that talked about having problems kinda pionted to not having proper ECM/controller to do the job, or atleast not being setup right or install problem is the reason for not getting good results. I have seen people with good results out of this tranny & as to date they are very pleased. But like I said before time will tell the whole story. But it looks to me like it should be able to be done & work good with the right controller atleast. But I would be interested in your results when you get there if you dont mind. A PM if needed.

You meantioned the GV unit not shifting fast enough to make good use of its ability. I assume you are refering to splitting every gear. I could see how trying to split every gear could be a problem and I dont see it being used this way in a 1/4 mile. But I think that one upshift could be used at any one gear(shift the GV up ones) without problem adding one gear to the avaible gears that your tranny has. Or using it to have a higher or lower ratio over all the gears ( pick high range or low range) and leave it there. But for it to downshift & your tranny to upshift in time is just going to be hard to maintain without one happening quicker than the other causing a dubble shift fealing when applied. So my idea use of the GV would be to start out in low range & upshift it ones(probably first gear) in which ever gear benifit the most from it, or just to shift it as a overdrive only. But I am assuming it would Shift Up without delay or hesitation or a neutral space inbetween shifting (slight rev between the gears) but I have never run one to know. But to use it to turn your three speed tranny into a six speed is just not going to work in a race.



Norbs,

thanks for the link I will look into these. I didnt not know these where around & its the first I have heard of them. I understand its function perfectly. The being heavy is one strike against them though. But if they hold up this is along the same lines as the VSC system I meantioned but is done in a differnt way. It would be interesting to try one for sure. And $1000.00 is about the norm for any highpower capable convertor this days. The one I refered to would change the stall on any convertor & you can run what you want. Although they do say it is best to run there convertor because it is made to handle the extra stress that the system applies. But if you have a 3000 stall you can basically turn it into a 4000 at the flip of a switch. They even claim you can modulate the pressure to vary it results.

Although the one you linked to probably can be set to change in % and ajust the stall to a differnt level at any RPM down the track. Unless it is made to go only on or off which may be the case. I will go read.


Here is alink to the one I meantioned.

http://www.fbperformance.com/NewSite/Default.asp

Go deaper into the site and there is more info on exactly how it works & racers that claim it being a good system ect,ect,ect...... Some of the concerns meantioned by others I talked to where like I said before. Possible to burn tranny up, spungy leaving the lights, snapp leaving the lights or just plain being to slow on inguagment.
I do not know, I have yet to find anymore info on it other than what is on there site. On paper it looks good & to here it from them it is good. But I would like to see someone that was running it myself. And thats the problem I havent got to talk to anyone that has run these.




I believe for the duel purposs that I wish to have ( lot of driving plus fast track times) the 4l80e with a good clutch setup in the convertor will be a good choice if it can be controlled right. It should be able to be done, maybe not easy or cheap. I am not to much worried about the money I just want to do it right the first time which will be cheaper than three or four tranny replacments of not doing it right. What ever it cost it will just have to be. But on the same hand I dont want to spend money for something not needed. I do hope to make enough HP that the 200r will want to come out of there. If I can get the tranny working good enough I would like to run atleast a 70BB turbo or even more if usable. But only if I can get a convertor combo that I can live with on the street. 3500 plus would be OK if I had a good lockup that could be used on the track & street. Which is what I am lead to believe the 4l80e can do.


Jess
 
Jess,

How fast is your car? I would not think about a 4l80e for a fast "street car" really unless you are running <10.50s consistently AND you have plenty of power to spare. Like the TH400, the gear spread on the 80e is not as ideal, I don't think, as the 2004r for moderately/high powered stock blocks. The TH400 is a better Strip/Street transmission. From GM's database, the 4l80e by itself is 100lbs heavier than the 2004r. My car has FG bumpers, 6pt chromoly cage, etc and it weighs 3780 with me in it.

I trully think (opinion) that a 2004r and a good, careful tranny builder like a Vince Janice can make a 2004r live into the mid/high 10's quite well. I only mention Vince because I know if a few trans he's done that have lived well!

Lucky and I have talked on a phone a few times, and I'm anxiuos to hear how his car turns out with the stock block. I don't have a reference with a stock block because mine is now a Stage II car and didn't have any real tests with it before pulling the stock block.

Make no mistake... my transmission IS perfect for what I wanted it for. Something that is "virtually" unbreakable on the street. I have been 10.1x's just a few weeks ago, and will go some high nines in a month or so.

I just wouldn't recommend it unless you have the power to overcome the gear spread and additional weight. (100-150lbs depending on torque converter). My transbrake also is a little slow, so for more strip type cars, the TH400 is the better choice.

John
 
Sorry.. I got names mixed up.. it was snzuloz I talked to.

FYI something else guys.. With the 80e, you can get a full manual kit for $150 I think.. which puts away the cost of the computer. But who would want to do that? I can change shift points in a few clicks. Still trying to find the optimal shifting for my car actually.

Also.. DO NOT use the Transgo shift kit in these if you ever want to go with a transbrake from Rossler. It will not work.

Last, the later 4l80e you can get the better. You must use 96' and up.. they are just better.. 1998 and up is even better because of the change in rear support bushing lube.
 
my old combo the car ran mid 11's. it now has champion aluminum heads, pt70 turbo, big stuff 3, different injectors (stock block .030 over fully studded with steel caps) the new combo should easily have the car in the low to mid 10's with proper tuning. i fully realize that the car might lose some power with the added weight and cost me slight loss of power to drive this tranny, but as for reliability and overall driveability incuding highway use this is the way to go for me. it might be different if i couldv'e had the 200r4 survive, the 700r4 i have now has lasted 6+ years. being where i'm at in Canada some of these 200s sound great but imagine buying one, putting it in and it not working as it should. i don't disagree with you that the ideal ratio of the 200 is best for the car, but their is no comparison between the two transmissions, the 200 is built much lighter and was never designed to handle that much power. i know there are 200 transmissions out in use that go nines, but i bet that they will be overhauled sooner than a 4l80 will. i'll let you know how it go's. somebody has to try new things or it would get boring running the same ol stuff
 
U can run a mid 90's truck pcm only using the tranny side and save yourself a ton of monye over a big stuff 3

Its been done, lot more than once.

later
Jeremy
 
Go For It!!

If you're looking at the 4L80E, I say go for it!!

The Syclone guys go through 700R4s like a knife goes through warm butter, and the few that have converted to the 4L80E have nothing but good things to say. All this hogwash about increased weight and drivetrain loss slowing the car down, turned out to be just that... hogwash. One truck I can think of went low 12s on a stock motor, stock turbo setup with the 700R4 and with the 4L80E went 1 tenth faster. "All that extra weight and drivetrain loss" didn't seem to slow him down. Check www.syty.net Drivetrain Forum if you want to read more.

One thing I have learned with these turbo cars is you can never make a mistake building too strong a tranny!!!
 
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