I was in an emergency situation, so when I heard the whirring sound on the highway and the burnt oil and clutch smell I had to keep driving for like 35 minutes. The rest of the fluid came out after I parked it but I burnt some stuff up for sure. I refilled it and noticed no metal in the rear floating around. Here is what I got now. Basically I have a locked rear all the time for starters. It whines and makes noise as I accel. It bindes and grindes around corners and gets worse as the rear heats up. The past few days it got way worse and seems as if it is going to break al together. As far as rebuilds go, what do I need to get started. The way it makes so much noise and clanks all over the place I think I need to redo all the bearings and set it up again like new. But why dont these kits come with the clutch packs. Is it possible that they are ok and I can rebuild it all again and reuse the old clutches. Cause with all the stuff that is wrong, one thing is for sure I got two wheels driving at all times. Car does mean doughnuts with ease. Is there any one that sells a complete overhaul kit. Or do I get the gear install kit and some clutches from GM if I need them. If they look ok, ie not burnt to hell, I can use them I am guessing. Is there a minimum thickness or something. Where would you guys reconmend buying these parts. Thanks for any help.
Highway drive with no fluid in rear, what did I do?
- Thread starter 87owner
- Start date
This will sound crazy, but try it: Refill it and use the proper fluids, and then go beat it. The clutches get stuck together and sometimes need coerced apart. You could try prying them apart when the cover is off. Had this happen to a Z28 I had, payed a dealer good money to go hammer it and pop them loose. Worth a shot.
Thats what I was thinking.... I wasnt clear I guess cause I already tried that. Once it was filled and I didnt see any metal shavings. I figured it was worth a try. After several burnouts, doughnuts, and slow speed figure eights i gave up. Afew more trips into it and now the problem has progressed to binding slipping clanking grinding. Sounds different comming to a stop than it does accelerating. Its a mess. A mechanic budy seems to think a bearing got burned up somewhere.
Officer
Honest Officer, my posi was giving me the fits so these doughnuts and hard launches should have fixed the problem. Then you try to explain that to the judge. You should have at least made a video. Slow speed figure eights and no video
Does the posi need friction additive?
Is it the stock unit?
Did the gear look OK?
Can you remove the unit from the car?
I think Richmond or Moroso has rebuild kits for the posi 100 or so dollars?
Honest Officer, my posi was giving me the fits so these doughnuts and hard launches should have fixed the problem. Then you try to explain that to the judge. You should have at least made a video. Slow speed figure eights and no video
Does the posi need friction additive?
Is it the stock unit?
Did the gear look OK?
Can you remove the unit from the car?
I think Richmond or Moroso has rebuild kits for the posi 100 or so dollars?
I think its stock, if so it has 106000 miles on it. From what I saw the gears look OK. I'm going to try and tear it down this friday, hope it comes out ok. Also I got rebuild/gear install kit with all sorts of bearings form summit. Now I proobably hav eto get new clutch packs somewhere to do it right. Also I have never dowe a rear, so I got the tech video. Should be a fun learning experience. I have oher cars to drive so if I take forever it will be ok.
Pulled it all apart. I spun a carrier bearing and it chewed up the housing. I'm Getting a rear out of a monte carlo cause it has the suspension stuff in the right places. Its going to be 100 bucks and the guy is pulling it for me. Is that a bad price? Going to rebuild this housing with my 342 posi stuff I have already.
strikeeagle
New Member
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2001
$100 bucks and he's pulling it? What a crook! I think that's how Donald Trump got started, pulling rear ends for $100. You do 1 of those a day, 6 days a week, 52 weeks a year and you can make (1 X 6 X 52 X 100 X 0.68) = $21,216.00 a year after taxes. That guy has to be livin' large!!!
yeah I thought it was pretty good. My favorite U-pull-it got closed down so I had no choice than to give this guy a try. I'd be happy enough getting it myself but his yard is one of those where all the cars looks like thay are freakin air dropped. The car I need to work on is at the bottom of a pile. so I really had no chioce, but its cool with me just picking it up. He also had a complete 342 limited slip from an impala SS for 350.00
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2001
No, they aren't. The regular G bodies had the 7.5" ring gear. The Turbo Buicks and Olds 442 got the 8.5" ring gear units. Both have ten bolts.
That Monte housing will get you by until you rebuild your stocker, just don't be hard on it. Hard launches are what kill them.
I am talking about rebuilding it. I destroyed my housing. I know the difference between a 7.5 and an 8.5. But are the housings the same, will the 8.5 10 bolt setup go into the 7.5 10 bolt rear. I will be reusing my carrier, gears ect. Only need the housing itself.
There's plenty of cars that have the 8.5", but I think the only ones that are a direct bolt-in are from either a Turbo Regal or '85-'87 442...I may be wrong on the years though of the 442 though.
I think the Impy SS rear is wider, and I'm not sure that the suspension points are the same....would guess not though.
Steve
I think the Impy SS rear is wider, and I'm not sure that the suspension points are the same....would guess not though.
Steve
TurboCustomz
New Member
- Joined
- May 6, 2004
Yep, you really need to find a direct replacement housing...I know some of the camaro's had 8.5's in them as well.
If it turns out you need any parts, or even for the housing, try Wayne Grubb of Grubb performance Gears R Us.
Gears Are Us
He specializes in GN stuff as he is an enthusiest himself.
If it turns out you need any parts, or even for the housing, try Wayne Grubb of Grubb performance Gears R Us.
Gears Are Us
He specializes in GN stuff as he is an enthusiest himself.
From some one who's done literally hundreds of rear ends.....
....I seriously doubt that your ring and pinion survived, especially if a carrier bearing locked and spun in the housing. It may work, but it will never be quiet again. The only way to find out is to pull it apart. If you see any "texture" in the wear pattern, they need to be replaced. I have done quite a few rear ends that have spun one or both carrier bearings a little. You can always tell because the side shims will be worn in the exact size and shape of the bearing race, and usually have visible side play in the carrier. If you can bolt in a new bearing race and it won't turn, you should be OK in that respect. I'd say it's more likely that a pinion bearing froze, they are more heavily loaded, but they also get lube slung at them off the ring gear even if there's only a quart of lube in them. Once the gear lube level drops below the axle tubes, the carrier bearings get very little lube (except splash). If you do need a ring and pinion, you might be better off to have a professional set them up. Not saying you couldn't do it, but your chances of getting the pinion depth correct without the proper measuring tools (and/or experience with gear marking compound and reading patterns) are pretty slim. Backlash is simple enough (usually), but if either isn't correct, your gears won't last much longer than if they had no lube.
....I seriously doubt that your ring and pinion survived, especially if a carrier bearing locked and spun in the housing. It may work, but it will never be quiet again. The only way to find out is to pull it apart. If you see any "texture" in the wear pattern, they need to be replaced. I have done quite a few rear ends that have spun one or both carrier bearings a little. You can always tell because the side shims will be worn in the exact size and shape of the bearing race, and usually have visible side play in the carrier. If you can bolt in a new bearing race and it won't turn, you should be OK in that respect. I'd say it's more likely that a pinion bearing froze, they are more heavily loaded, but they also get lube slung at them off the ring gear even if there's only a quart of lube in them. Once the gear lube level drops below the axle tubes, the carrier bearings get very little lube (except splash). If you do need a ring and pinion, you might be better off to have a professional set them up. Not saying you couldn't do it, but your chances of getting the pinion depth correct without the proper measuring tools (and/or experience with gear marking compound and reading patterns) are pretty slim. Backlash is simple enough (usually), but if either isn't correct, your gears won't last much longer than if they had no lube.
Re: From some one who's done literally hundreds of rear ends.....
so even if a carrier bearing spun. If its not that bad and the cap can hold the new race in without spinning it can be rebuilt. It looks like it might work to me, but I thought any sign of a spun bearing and that surface was toast and it was game over. As far as tools go: shop press, bearing separator, dial indicator, dial caliper, tourque wrenches. I cant find a torque meter for checking the preload on the pinion bearings. Where can I find that?
Originally posted by Rickracer
....I seriously doubt that your ring and pinion survived, especially if a carrier bearing locked and spun in the housing. It may work, but it will never be quiet again. The only way to find out is to pull it apart. If you see any "texture" in the wear pattern, they need to be replaced. I have done quite a few rear ends that have spun one or both carrier bearings a little. You can always tell because the side shims will be worn in the exact size and shape of the bearing race, and usually have visible side play in the carrier. If you can bolt in a new bearing race and it won't turn, you should be OK in that respect. I'd say it's more likely that a pinion bearing froze, they are more heavily loaded, but they also get lube slung at them off the ring gear even if there's only a quart of lube in them. Once the gear lube level drops below the axle tubes, the carrier bearings get very little lube (except splash). If you do need a ring and pinion, you might be better off to have a professional set them up. Not saying you couldn't do it, but your chances of getting the pinion depth correct without the proper measuring tools (and/or experience with gear marking compound and reading patterns) are pretty slim. Backlash is simple enough (usually), but if either isn't correct, your gears won't last much longer than if they had no lube.
so even if a carrier bearing spun. If its not that bad and the cap can hold the new race in without spinning it can be rebuilt. It looks like it might work to me, but I thought any sign of a spun bearing and that surface was toast and it was game over. As far as tools go: shop press, bearing separator, dial indicator, dial caliper, tourque wrenches. I cant find a torque meter for checking the preload on the pinion bearings. Where can I find that?
