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speeder

Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2003
Messages
41
Here are some pictures of the intake for my twin turbo Buick Stage 2 engine project.

This is a modified carburetor Manifold. Kendall Frederick started the conversion, and I added the extra injector bungs and fuel rails.

With a goal of 1000 whp, the required injectors would be too big for any kind of low speed running. Hence, 2 sets of 6 - 85lb injectors, the second set coming into operation at a certain rpm/boost as controlled by my Electromotive TEC3r.

This setup will be fed by two Aeromotive Eliminator fuel pumps pulling from separate fuel cells with 1/2" hard lines up to the fuel rails- the secondary cell will contain race gas for street use, race gas in both for high boost track use.
I'll use the TEC3r's GPO outputs to control pump speed via PWM through homebrewed power drivers.

That's a 1550 cfm progressively linked 2-barrel Throttle Body- I'll probably have to replace the carb hat's inlet tubes with bigger ones but will wait and see after the whole thing is flowed with the heads.

Now, If the machine shop will EVER get done with the motor, I've got the top ready to go - Just needs to be powder coated.

Stageman2.JPG

Stagemantop.JPG

StagemanFront.JPG

1550CFM.JPG
 
WOW !! Very nice intake , the fuel rail is very big ,That is going to take you a big fuel pump :D :D :D
 
what your best run whith your Z ?? how fast do you think run ?? the car is very lightweight :eek:
 
Holly Crap!!! :eek:

I love the enginuity displayed by the Turbo Buick community!!!!
 
Very nice, Speeder. You just need some place to feed the nitrous now.
 
NOW THATS WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT!!!! I love seeing the differant ways we come up with to make power. VERY NICE!!!
CC
 
I think the hat may not work/flow enough but its hard to say. I always wondered about using a large CFM carb style TB. Wilson makes a 2000cfm. You will get some looks for sure and you can tell everyone the twin injectors are for the pure alky you run on the street.
 
I think the hat may not work/flow enough but its hard to say.

Yeah, I spent some time looking at this today and am worried about that - I may just go ahead and run the big tubes in now and recontour the top to be more angled down toward the rear. . I think that with 2.5" tubes, (those shown are 2") this hat looks to flow at least as well as the elbows people use with these manifolds...My intercooler outlet tubes will be 2.5" diameter. At any rate, this contraption has a date with the flow bench.

what your best run whith your Z ?? how fast do you think run ?? the car is very lightweight

Well Mark, We will have to see. The engine conversion is still at least several months away. Car will weigh about 2900 lbs with driver and 1/2 tank of gas - the stage is just a little heavier than the inline turbo six it will replace.
It will be stick - shifted with a NASCAR-spec 4-speed dog box, has a 2.93:1 Nissan R-230 IRS rear (9.1" ring gear), massive upgraded CVs, runs M/T 325/50-15 DRs in drag race trim. Should have 8s potential, wouldn't you think?

This car will see street, drag, and roadrace action by changing wheels/tires and bumping my 4-wheel coilovers' suspension to preset marks. I hope to prove those wise people wrong who say that one car can't be competent in both the above forms of racing,plus limited street use.

IMO, the turbo Stage seems perfect for a multipurpose sports car - a low compression, big displacement six in light load driving, and a high-revving monster under boost.I also like the compact size of the stage - It will sit low and will be totally behind the front axles (except the turbos), making a true front mid-engine car. I can't wait! Talk about delayed gratification ---
 
memories

makes me wish i would have never sold my 72 240Z. It was a just a carbed inline 6, but it did have a fogger system!!:biggrin: That is nuckin futz!! jeremy
 
jerico trans? I looked into the roadrace version years back. But make alot of noise for a street car.
 
jerico trans? I looked into the roadrace version years back. But make alot of noise for a street car.

Finding an affordable manual trans that will stand my hp/torque targets is proving to be difficult. I have a built T10 standing by if I can't hang with the Jerico's noise and need for double-clutching, but don't think it will last very long. I currently have a G-force T5 (small angle helical gears) on the I6 and it's pretty noisy - can't really imagine how much more noisy straight cut gears will be. There are 6000.00 T56s that can handle big power, but with a long rear end ratio, big rpm range, and lots of torque I don't think a lot of forward gears are required- 4 will be enough.

But then, I really have to consider how much I'm going to have the boost on this thing turned all the way up. :biggrin:
 
This is how it was explained to me from jerico. "If you dont slip the clutch some on launch you will break almost every manual trans. If you slip the clutch much you will eat them up fast. Also adjusting one for slip isnt the easiest to change the weights. The only manuals that will live behind a built engine will be a lenco or an liberty and you still need to slip the clutch. I passed on it as they will sound like those school buses you rode as a kid. Ever listen to a nascar trans when they are under caution? in car camera...LOUD.
 
If the engine sits behind the front axles is a mid engine car? If so I may have a mid engine 60's nova.;)
 
Today I went ahead and ****ped off those 2" tubes on the hat - It's now at the welder's getting 2.5" thin wall cnc'ed beaded tubes. I hole sawed and ported the entry areas inside the hat smooth - This will give me roughly as much intake area as a single 90mm TB - and match the ID of my intercooler outlet tubes. I think that will do. I'm after a low profile intake solution for the Z - The motor will sit very low in the chassis with a shallow road race dry sump pan, and I will then install as tall a throttle body spacer as will fit to gain additional plenum volume.

Hopefully the next pictures I post will be of this setup atop a motor.

On Clutches: I had a long, seemingly productive discussion with a rep at Quartermaster about this - My specs: 800 lb/ft torque capability, able to withstand drag race starts with good traction, reasonable streetability. They made me a 7.25" dual disc setup that supposedly has a progressive engagement and not cheap.:eek: I agree that the right clutch and correct launch technique is key to driveline, and especially transmission durability.

I've broken a lot of stuff in just a little drag racing with my 430whp Nissan
I6 - so have some background here.

HeHe, It censored w*h*o*p*p*e*d. That's Southern-ese, not an ethnic slur or whatever.
 
You just need some place to feed the nitrous now.

Yeah Baby! As if I won't be able to kill myself with this thing as planned.

I do have a nice NOS fogger system on the shelf, however....and see that blue plug on top of the hat? hmmm. Don, you're one of those gearhead hooligans my wife is suspicious of - claims they are bad influences, probably right.
 
Yeah Baby! As if I won't be able to kill myself with this thing as planned.

I do have a nice NOS fogger system on the shelf, however....and see that blue plug on top of the hat? hmmm. Don, you're one of those gearhead hooligans my wife is suspicious of - claims they are bad influences, probably right.

Well then, I am truly honored. Give her a big hug and kiss for me.

Good move with the intake tubes.

Watch for rapid wear on some of those fancy clutch setups. I've seen severe wear of the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces from some of the aggressive clutch disc materials that are popular.

Don't forget that hug and kiss now.
 
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